Hello, I am having some major problems getting Lithophanes to print on my brand new H2D. It has me seriously considering returning it. The printer settings are attached, I am using basic white Bambu PLA. Please if anyone knows a fix or a settings issue let me know. I am looking to find all the help I can get. I have done calibration tests and extrusion. It is also leaving blobs or little small specs of filament of the lithophane that is hindering the picture. If any of you smart people know a fix let me know ASAP. This is a brand new printer.
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Do these settings work properly on non-H2D Bambu printers?
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I could not tell you. I downloaded the settings for a 3.mf on Makerworld. Do you have settings you use?
Mhm. I can check my project files tomorrow. Had no issues at all and the results were overwhelming. Tbh, I expected bad quality. But it was a professional print⌠canât attach photos to proof itâŚ
What comes to mind: when I start a job I usually send files to the printer. From there I tick off the time lapse and manually set bed level and extrusion to ON. 
Iâll check tomorrow and get back here. If not, please me remind međ
Sure, whatever you got. Right now I regret buying this machine. But it may be a settings error
Lithos print quite well when laid flat on their back in the slicer.
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You should try using the 0.12 fine HQ it will have diffrent process settings
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Looks like one side warped up into the nozzle. Try a 0 gap brim after cleaning the plate and drying the filament. Also, if you want to print such a thin part vertically, youre going to have to run very slow. Maybe start by trying silent mode
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What Eno said - print it flat but you probably want a smooth build plate instead of textured.
Printing vertical like that will have lots more color changes if multicolor and you may even need those side supports that help hold tall/skinny prints upright.
Also, lithophanes are a torture test of sorts and filaments need to be well-dried to get the best results.
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Monochrome lithophanes get much better quality printing vertically. His is monochrome.
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If you look closely, the initial layer height was set to 0.12 mm, which doesnât provide a strong foundation or good brim adhesion. The 0.12 profile are better optimized for this purpose.
Wouldnât a 0.12 layer height give an equivalent resolution as a .2 nozzle with Arachne? Itâd also give a more uniform XY resolution. Not as sharp in z, certainly, but the nozzle error would be in a single plane?
Addendum: Since you mentioned blobs and what I presume is stringing: @MZip already mentioned drying.
Furthermore, you may (!) be able reduce the number of retracts (and hence stringing, blobbing instances) a little by using concentric surfaces and infill. But with PLA, drying should be enough.
Not sure if âwipe on retractâ in the filament settings will help in your case. Once again, drying the filament should really be enough.
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I think Iâd just downvote the print profile on the makerworld model instead of returning the H2D.
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I have printed a lot of lithophanes on my X1C and they do need to be printed flat.
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You lose much more detail printing these lithophanes on their back. Thanks though.
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I have always printed them on my P1S vertically they also come out with much better detail.
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I do not know whose fault it is. The profile is rated extremely well with a 4.9.
Yes unfortunately this was already dried on a 8 hour cycle in the AMS 2 Pro
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Ah, bugger.
Unfortunately, I do not have an H2D so I can not really comment on its performance regarding oozing and stringing.
Did you enable âwipe on retractâ? Makes a big difference on my X1 on some of the more challenging prints.
Also, out of curiosity, why does a vertical print with a .12mm layer height give better detail than a flat print with a .2mm nozzle and Arachne?