For $120 you can upgrade your US model X1 to an 800W heatbed. Modification takes only a few seconds, no permanent changes to your printer, and easily reversible.
Instead of 7m47s to heat the bed to 100C, it now only takes 1m54s.
https://www.printables.com/model/319404-bambu-x1-800w-heatbed-mod-for-us-models
According to the spec here Bambu Lab X1 Series | Desktop 3D Printer | X1-Carbon - Bambu Lab maximum temperature on 110v is 120C and is 10C higher than on 220v.
Seems strange and possibly wrong. Anyone manage to set bed temperature to 120C?
Also assuming the bed heater is a linear resistance doubling voltage will quadruple power so at110v the bed is more like 200W.
the temp limitation is due to earth leakage current at 220v. the data is correct.
the temp limitation was openly disclosed and explained in detail early on in the kickstarter here: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/bambulab/bambu-lab-x1-corexy-color-3d-printer-with-lidar-and-ai/posts/3543404
the bed heater is not linear. the quoted power utilization is max power of the entire unit (hotend+fans+steppers+heatbed) not just the heatbed.
i measured, with a power meter, purely what the heatbed consumed when heating.
For any of you wondering, you can change max temp for EU version in filament settings. First to change is vitrification temp (as it sets max temp for given filament), then change temp according to build plate and done. Although when you try to change it later by hand on the screen it might still be locked to 110.
Thanks for the background on the earth leakage problem.
The bed heating element is linear with voltage and has a typical +ve resistance temperature coefficient.
My X1C idle power is 25W at either voltage. The bed heater power was 209W @ 110v and 767W @ 220v but the bed was hotter for the 220v measurement. It is a resistor, double the voltage quadruple the power.
I have an EU shipped unit. Not sure I am going to want 120C. Do you think/know the firmware is configured for region? I canât set 120C on the touch screen regardless of actual supply voltage. Regional configuration seems a pain although it might be necessary for the WiFi anyway.
Are you saying if I set 120C for a filament in Bambu Studio it will actually run at 120C on an EU machine and you tested it?
it used to work as i got some filament that is set to 120
but somewhere with a firmware update it got removed and it falls back to 110
if you manual want to set to 120 it provide a warning/error and put it to 110 instead
if you use the fimament hack , then it also set it back to 110
so the only reason you want to use this hack is if you want to save on time,
i can not say if US can still operate at 120 degree, but for Europe it is not possible anymore
Yup, been printing on 120 (for PC mainly) with no issue. Although you must set it before the print, changing it via a touchscreen doesnât always work, but I was able to set 120 via screen as well. But again, filament settings must be changed before - no chance without it.
Try it out, and set just the 1st layer to 120 (vitrification must be changed first).
And I have latest firmware.
The link in the OP isnât working for me, anyone have a good link?
The âmodâ was just to use a 110 â 220v step up transformer to run the printer on 220v.
@ArticulatedPotato The printables link is no good on your original post. Do you have the mod posted anywhere else?
the printables link was deleted by a printables admin. i guess they donât like bambu printers.
I guess they thought telling people to run their 110v printers on 220v was potentially dangerous. Why should they risk getting sued for burnt down houses?
Why didnât you post a link to the $120 120->220v step up transformer here?
if they deleted it because they believed it was dangerous, they deleted it because theyâre ignorant.
the bambu is a universal voltage device, just like most laptops are.
it even says right there on page 10 of the userâs manual. 100-240 VAC, 50/60hz.
there is no bambu â110v printerâ, nor will your x1c burn down simply because itâs run on 220v. it was designed to run on 100-240v.
prusa power supplies are also universal voltage so they really should know better.
but then again, these are the people who think a $799 kit cartesian-XZ bedslinger is a perfectly reasonable price.
the converter I use is here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008GQTXNU/
If you want a UL listed one:
https://www.amazon.com/KRIĂGER-Voltage-Transformer-Converter-Approved/dp/B00HDVIHIG