Upgraded P1P to P1S and got an AMS

I upgraded my P1P to a P1S, got an AMS, and replaced the 0.4mm hot end with a new hardened steel one. Since then my print quality has gone down significantly. I’m mainly printing with PLA and PLA+. My prints were damn near perfect beforehand when it was a P1P. Any advice? Much appreciated!

Did you set up the new nozzle in the software? Recalibrate?

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Yeah I ran the auto calibration after upgrading to P1S. First print after that failed because the hotend generated a huge blob of filament and got stuck. I figured that’s probably a hotend issue since I have a ton of hours on this printer, so I decided to replace the hotend.

Everything is updated and I also updated the gcode per the P1P-to-P1S guide from Bambu.

Their guide leaves a lot of questions to figure out yourself. In the wiki they use gcode from an X1, not a P1S for their example, so I was a little confused if the line it has me put in was supposed to be inserted or replace an existing line. I’ll include my machine gcode below so ya’ll can compare. Thanks!

;===== machine: P1S ========================
;===== date: 20231107 =====================
;===== turn on the HB fan & MC board fan =================
M104 S75 ;set extruder temp to turn on the HB fan and prevent filament oozing from nozzle
M710 A1 S255 ;turn on MC fan by default(P1S)
;===== reset machine status =================
M710 A1 S255
M17 Z0.4 ; lower the z-motor current
G380 S2 Z30 F300 ; G380 is same as G38; lower the hotbed , to prevent the nozzle is below the hotbed
G380 S2 Z-25 F300 ;
G1 Z5 F300;
M17 X1.2 Y1.2 Z0.75 ; reset motor current to default
M960 S5 P1 ; turn on logo lamp
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate
M73.2 R1.0 ;Reset left time magnitude
M1002 set_gcode_claim_speed_level : 5
M221 X0 Y0 Z0 ; turn off soft endstop to prevent protential logic problem
G29.1 Z{+0.0} ; clear z-trim value first
M204 S10000 ; init ACC set to 10m/s^2

You’re now printing in an enclosed printer, whereas before it was in the open air. Try printing with printer door and lid open, but better still get orca slicer and calibrate all your filaments. I successfully print pla on a p1s, with the door closed, but some can’t, but my prints are fairly small.


Thank you. This might be the final excuse for me to finally try Orca. Do you have any resources to help with calibrating the filament?

The calibration test pieces are in orca, with a good tutorial. It is at the end of the task bar.

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