I was hoping someone could tell me if it is possible to toggle the power on and off to the USB port that is located at the top, from, inside, of the P1S?
I recently printed a riser for lighting and used this port, assuming it would toggle with the onboard system LED. It does not. Nor can I find any settings for it.
Thanks!
Directly no, but if you’d like to play there’s possibly some electronic fun to be had P1 Series Relay Mount (LED Lighting) by ken830 MakerWorld: Download Free 3D Models
Lol, thanks, but I’d probably screw up my printer. Definitely DON’T want to do that!
They also have USB on/off switches if you just want to avoid having to plug and unplug it.
and remote ones:
Yes, and thank you for the references.
I saw those as I was searching for my COB strip, but as I said in the OP, I thought it would toggle with the factory LED.
At this point, I’m assuming there isn’t a way to toggle it without wiring in a board and programming it myself, which I have no idea how to do, so I’m probably going to send it back for one with a switch. It’s a sad day… 
You don’t have to program a simple relay. Just buy couple connectors, relay and cable connectors… All can be had for $10. I’m in process of doing so and it doesn’t even require soldering.
Power from that port is rated 1.5A @ 5V. But normally, you should give at least 30% head room for electronics. Overdraw power from that port will end up in weird glitching AP board at best, or releasing the magic smoke at worst.
Just be aware that, chinese manufacturers do not care about your safety operating of your 3D printer. A year ago, I tested a led strip for x1c and the current draw was 1.7A @ 5V, such led strip was designed to be direct replacement for dimly built-in led lamp. Unfortunately, a few people suffered for this bad product.
My suggestion is to leave that port alone. Use a phone charger to power up your led strip instead.
If you want more steamline, you can tap in the 24V rail. Extra 5-10W won’t hurt the 24V PSU, but you should run dedicate cable to the PSU terminal.
Tapping power from that port comes with some risk. People have tapped that port and caused themselves heartache.
As mentioned in that article, the 6500k white led strip is fine. That’s what I’m using without problems, just straight up connected without relay yet.
This is exactly what I did.
Thankfully, the riser I printed has a cutout on the backside too, specifically for external power sources. The sticky side wasn’t too sticky to remove it and rotate it around to use the cutout.
No replacement LED strip needed! Its just as easy to plug and unplug from the USB charger that was already there, for my vacuum sealer, as it is to flip a switch on a new strip.
Now my printer isn’t constantly consuming more power. Yay!
I guess you cut it to length because I don’t think 5m of that led strip will stay below 1.5A. These are generally rated a little below 1A per meter, I wonder why bambu is selling it as being compatible without saying it is only when cut to the proper length to fit the printer (about 1.2 to 1.5m). There is a big risk someone will just plug it it as it is to test it and fry the board if left connected too long.
That’s a very good point.
I thought about doing that, but just assumed the best of Bambu and assumed the port would work and the lights would work. Though, I bought a 6 ft COB strip, only about 1.8m full length.
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