Hello again!
Today I am considering purchasing a PEI textured plate for my X1 Carbon. Upon reading in the store, it looks like I would need to remove he upper glass to print with certain filaments, such as PLA, TPU & TVA. Can someone explain this to me before I purchase it? I am currently using a lot of PLA as I get use to 3d printing.
Thank you
If you have issues with printing PLA you MAY need to open the top and front. I have a P1S which is also fully enclosed and print with PLA and the textured PEI sheet all the time with the printer fully sealed. It may depend on your room temperature etc.
You should take out the glass printing with PLA or open the door, opening the door is a little dangerous because you can rub on her and break it!
if you want to go fancy make it like Joel
if you only print pla you can use this one
I never tested it because I don’t have a P1p or X series I have an A1 but it should work!
I made a door holder with a bright part that stands up and is visible from the left or right side that warns me the door is open.
Door open/top removed is the Bambu recommendation for PLA on all plates, to keep chamber temperature down. Part of the reason for the popularity of PLA is that it does not require an enclosure.
My experience for what it’s worth…
I have an X1C and an A1, print primarily PLA with both. I’ve ONLY opened the door to the X1C when I was prompted to do so, which isn’t very often. I use the generic PLA profile with mostly SUNLU PLA (220C hotend) I would say 95% of my PLA prints on the X1C are with the top glass in place and the door closed. I don’t think I am having issues.
The prints on the A1, which is completely open, and the X1C look the same to me.
As far as plates for PLA. I have the textured plate and the cool plate. IMO, the cool plate with glue is the best for printing PLA. I’ve had occasional adhering issues with the textured plate, prints breaking loose, it’s a little less sticky than the cool plate with glue. If you use the cool plate without glue, it’s too sticky, glue creates a layer between the print and plate to make removal easier.
most sticky (print sticks to the plate) to least sticky
So while many PLA prints will do fine on the textured plate, you will occasionally need a bit stickier
My chamber is usually around 28c. Is that a good temp? I will look for a riser and print it up asap.
I think 28c should be just fine for printing PLA.
I use the Textured PEI plate for most of my PLA prints, I use Aquanet hair spray on the PEI plate for prints that I suspect might have adhesion issues and that works well for me.
I find it easier to apply than the glue stick. When the textured plate cools down fully some of my PLA prints release completely from the plate and some just need a little flex of the plate to release.
I printed the DK Riser from Makerworld ( DK Riser for BambuLab X1 by papsjundi - MakerWorld ) I open the vents when I print PLA but I leave the door closed
and the top glass installed. The LED lights in the riser (set to 10% brightness) make it much easier to see inside the printer through the door and the top.
I moved my AMS to a wall mount to the side of the printer because I like to be able to easily remove the top glass for Hot end swaps and maintenance.
Thank you everyone for being so helpful!
I have downloaded the filament guide pdf, and a bunch of the file suggestions for the riser. I am learning something new every day it seems.
Blockquote
My experience for what it’s worth…
This is exactly my experience printing on the X1C as well. SUNLU PLA with no issues whatsoever… no matter the ambient conditions. Have never even been prompted to open the door or remove the top glass. My plate use is also the same… prefer the Cool Plate with glue, or the PEI Texture Plate.
Side Note: Printing SUNLU TPU (95A) has been the exact same experience for me. Fully enclosed, Cool Plate with glue or PEI Texture Plate depending on what I am doing with the print.
I’ve printed over a dozen full PLA rolls now on a genuine Bambu textured PEI bed and had very very few issues.
I leave the door open and have printed a small bracket / holder for a generic temp gauge, mounted do that I can see it with the chamber camera. totally unnecessary but I was experimenting.
YOU DO NEED TO LEAVE THE LID OFF OR DOOR OPEN. I’ve caused heat creep and blockages twice - the only real issues ive had apart from being too lazy to occasionally clean the bed.
PEI bed is wearing exceptionally well. The cool plate that I’d used before has a few scrapes and is looking a bit more battle scarred, takes a bit more work cleaning and I used 3D LAC on it instead of glue stick. Just have to be more fussy with the bed cleaning and prep.
So there’s a simple choice until there’s some decent chamber temp control mods out there - Use PEI and leave the lid / door open. Or use the cool plate and clean it / glue it up - just a bit more work.
I decide mainly on the surface finish. I preferred PEI when I was building bed slingers for its reliablility but Bambu Labs have there printers sorted and reliability is there for any of their beds.
I have almost 1 year of printing time on my X1 using mostly PLA and plates requiring higher bed temps like the textured pei, Wham Bam, and Lightyear. I never print with the door or top open so I can scrub chamber air through a bento box. Even on 36+ hour prints I have yet to experience a clog. Chamber temps tend to not exceed 33-35c and the chamber fan will kick up higher if needed - I even run a muffler on the back of the chamber exhaust that includes an integrated additional hepa filter thus resticting airflow a bit.