Just finished a 5 hour print and noticed vertical “waves” right along length and from top to bottom.
X1 Carbon with Obsidian 0.4nozzle.
Used BL PLA-CF at 225 c nozzle and 60 c bed. Normal speed nothing speeded up or slowed down. Dried filament at 60 for 4 hours, HL was 20%.
I’ve run this print many times and not seen this.
Took 2 pictures showing issue but cannot find how to upload.
Any ideas please. Thanks in advance.
I’ve uploaded (I think!!) the 3mf file if of any use
Could you please also upload the .3mf file used for this print?
At first glance, it would be recommended to clean the nozzle and perform a few cold pulls to ensure there is no partial clog.
Next, it is also recommended to clean the carbon rods and re-tension the belts, then performing a full calibration to ensure everything is right. The vertical lines might be caused by the motion system needing maintenance.
I have some similar problems. All of a sudden i have perfect horizontal waves/rings in my prints. Waves are small (only a few layers high) in the first layers and get bigger the Higher the print gets. Thea aligne perfectly with the layers. Has anybody have this before?
This Print is with ASA CF. It also happened with PAHT CF.
I have done all the cleaning and maintenace. Tensioned the belts etc. … I have no idea
I cant add Pictures here
I would Open a new topic… But i cant
You should be able to drag-n-drop or copy-paste pics now. May need to scroll through further posts (30) and/or open a few topics (10). Then you can open a new topic although it sounds like it fits somewhat.
As for the issue, your print wouldn’t be thin and tall? It’d then benefit from
Tree side supports
Manual cut away supports (you can use “add primitive” for that)
Decreasing jerk Edit:(Orca only), acceleration, speed with increasing height
There are probably a few further Material specific items but I am afriad that I do not print ASA.
Thanks for the fast answer. I tried adding Pics via drag and drop or Upload… maybe my account ist too fresh
Parts are pretty solid … i printed them already a few times. Never had problems
Waves are aligned perfectly with the layers. First layers small waves with not much spacer in between. . Higher layers, waves getting less and more apart
That may well be the case. But it is usually quite quick once you spent 10 Min reading
? Opened 10 topics
? Scrolled through 30 posts
Unfortunately, troubleshooting is a bit tricky without pics. Especially, since you printed these parts before without problems. And the error description is unusual.
Since you recently performed the maintenance, did you re-calibrate the printer (and maybe filament)?
That is … really strange. 2mm pitch at the bottom, 4mm pitch higher up?
And temperature dependant?
I am purely guessing here but it looks mechanical.
So maybe redo the belt tensioning, z-rod cleaning and XY-axis cleaning before re-calibrating the printer.
While you are doing that, check the z-axis seating. Sometimes during maintenance (z-cleaning), I accidentally dislocate one of the leads (it then potrudes more at the top than the others). Usually, I then also have to hunt for the tiny silicone cap.
Related to this is possible build plate induced stress. Only had that once. Loosening the print bed bearing holders, pulling lightly on the heat bed when re-tensioning resolved that.
Hopefully, you do not need to do a bed tramming.
A final thought that comes to mind is the z-belt under the printer. Check for debris and z-belt tension.
Sorry for not being able to spot the smoking gun but I hope that some of these thoughts and experiences can be helpful and do not lead to a goose chase.
That are great hinten and i’ll try to follows some … But since its just random and only with high temps its hard to find something… but i may have found the Bug … Could be my heater … Its going Off when the temp i reached and going in again when Temps dropped 5°C … Maybe thats the Point
I do the Same Print as in pics right now without the heater … and it seems fine
But i neet the heater für PA prints … Maybe i need to look for another one with better temp regulation …
I use a Plus4 nowadays for high temp prints but remember that I could get the X1 chamber close to 60°C simply by additional insulation. Not exactly safe but it was a pre-order trial series using PA6-CF with me being present.
How is the plus4 performing or how its he managing the temp? Does it have a PID controller or something?
I realised the prints are much netter with the heater … almost no warp with PAHT … Besides the waves
So … Honestly i dont want to miss a heater … but i dont want the waves
Well, the Plus4 does what it says on the box. So a bigger plate , (slowly) heated chamber which stays at temp , higher nozzle temp:+1:, Klipper (i.e. inline control possibilities, great monitoring,…),…
What I do miss is the auto-filament calibration of the X1. That would be really helpful with the costly high performance materials.
And of course it does not have an AMS yet. I ordered it as soon as it became available, but it’ll not ship until the 20th.
I had hoped that the different nozzle philosophy would also come with a better flow control. Although PA is indeed much more direct (not much reason to calibrate it on the Plus 4), my minimum layer height testing led me to conclude that in low flow conditions, the X1 is still better. I can comfortably go as low as 0.03mm with the X1 while I’d be concerned about anything below 0.04 with the Plus4. It is also more limited in line width excess. But then, at least there’s a reason to switch to bigger nozzles .
What really stumped me were my trials with PPS-CF. I was prepared for some major calibration and tweaking… Nothing: Drying the roll (to death ) was enough to get great PPS prints out of it
Before ordering, I had performed some PA6-CF printing on the X1. Without a chamber heater, I dumped my cardie over the top and front to keep 50+°C in the chamber. Not that I would recommend that thoroughly unsafe approach. But it does go to show that insulation/draft prevention can help. Maybe a poop chute trapping hot air at the top and a front door seal. Of course, you’d want to see if you can get a tighter temp control window with your heater though.
I dare say that there are some in the forum who can better advise on that topic. Maybe this thread could be a good starting point?
Yea … H2D is Overkill for my use
I dont need a laser so often … and i dont need a dual hotend …
I would Love a bigger x1c with 350°C hotend and chamber heater
I’ll buy that right away
Just read about it … that sounds really good … Are they as user (or idiot-) friendly as Bambu? I really love the fact, that i can know nothing about printing and things usually turn out perfect
you spent 10 Min reading
& 
, (slowly) heated chamber which stays at temp 
, higher nozzle temp:+1:
.
