One doesn’t need readers BTW. You actually are doing it the way you should when it comes to critical review of your filament and that is by using your cell phone camera. The camera has the ability to zoom in and freeze imperfections that the human eye can overlook. I have numerous lighted magnifyers that I use but it is my cell phone that is the best tool, especially when I view the pics on a large screen monitor.
To answer your first question. You already have a fairly well dialed-in calibration. I see only one minor nit pick and that is possibly pressure advance setting is a bit too high. But before we go down that rabbit hole, you have to ask yourself what is your goal and weigh that against the amount of time and effort it takes to get there. Sometimes it’s not worth it but I will confess, have the fun is the trip not the destination. 
So in your example, this is the only thing I can see from the photos you supplied so far.
The voron cube or Bambu Cube or Orca Cube are all really designed to try to be a “be all” for calibration. To me, they are a waste of filament because you can achieve better results by focusing on one element of calibration with simpler models you can generate yourself from primitives. Where these models have use is like what you’re using it for now, to give us a reference model that we can all generate to compare our results with yours.
Here’s a trick for Pressure Advance if you really want to dial it in perfectly. Even so, changes in the model such as the letter Y in your case may not fix this, you may just need to change the travel speed for that particular print.
Start off with a simple cube primitive and size it to 50x10x10mm. This will create a rectangular tower that can be quickly printed without a lot of filament so you can run multiple experiments over a shorter time.
Then after you’ve gotten your traditional PA test calibrated, run each cube at a slight variation. Here is an example of what I mean. In this example, the variations were made very extreme to illustrate the impact of each PA change. I strongly urge anyone to experiment in this manner, use extreme values both high and low from your target and you will quickly see what the impact is in each direction. Then it becimes a simpler matter of dialing in smaller increments until you get it to your liking.
So in your case, you might, and the operative word is “might”, get those corner buldges to reduce but then you may also find that it impacts another part of the print. Only you can decide what is worth your while. In my case, I have more than one profile for some filaments. Some I use for purely geometric shapes where I am more concerned about accuracy like when I am making interlocking parts and for others where I care more about asthetics, I use a different profile. I also have profiles tuned for speed, not quality and vice versa.
