Maybe it’s me, but I still don’t get it.
Still I regard the bed as a (rigid!) plane and I don’t see what you can do better with four points than three points other that try to bend the plane. 
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I think this a good definition of tramming the surface.
To tram the build surface (a build surface comes in many shapes and forms, sheet of glass, bare aluminum plate, some sort of coated heated surface, etc.) most printers are equipped with at least three so-called “leveling screws”. Why at least three? It takes a minimum of three screws to fixate a plane in space, more screws cause the bed to be over-defined or indeterminate, but with a flexible build surface it is quite common to have 4 screws although it is causing a statically indeterminate system. So, these screws need to be adjusted as such that the build surface if parallel to the nozzle.
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Hi.
I also have non flat bed, it’s about half screw turn to compensate.
I thinking about order milled alu sheet and (at cost of lost some mm in Z) use this as solution.
Anyone tried before?
Right there with you.
Despite being assured the replacement bed would go through “extra QC” to ensure it was good, it showed up almost exactly as bad as the original. With a straight edge across the X axis, it is 0.8mm low in the middle.
Rather than apologize for doing exactly what they said they would not, they are attempting to force installation before they replacement the replacement, under the absurd claim that “heating the bed and performing the tramming procedure will improve the flatness”.
I am not going to waste time installing a defective bed.
Bambu Labs, make this right or your reputation is really going to suffer.
They don’t care about reputation, they are selling faster than they can produce. If they don’t help you, ask for a refund. If they still do t help you file for a chargeback.
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I was thinking of something similar and embed magnets. I can’t find it but someone was selling magnetic glass cut to fit and putting the build sheet on top.
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What temperature is everyone measuring their beds at? I would expect thermal expansion on a component like this to be significant, and I can’t imagine it would be uniform from 20C to 80C+.
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Yeah I think you are talking about the guy selling goodplate. His website is goodplate.de and I just ordered from him. Will receive in about two weeks or something and will report here.
I think his post was removed since he was advertising his invention.
Please don’t take my comment as endorsement of his invention. I have no first hand experience but decided to take a chance on the concept. Was exchanging emails with him earlier and he says that the magnetic foil + glass plate has a height of 3.5mm but that’s a small sacrifice for a perfectly straight glass bed. We shall see.
Thanks! That is the one. Should work but adding more mass obviously too.
After I get another bed I can look more closely at the old warped one. I’ll see if I can engineer a better solution. In the meantime I don’t want to rip apart my X1CC. I’m curious to remove the pad on the top and see what we have. I’ve worked on astrograph scanners with beds that are similar and we used structured aluminum plate. I’m wondering if we could simply level it with moldable material…dental imprint material or even silicone flattened and cured under a flat plate with a release agent.
Someone else mentioned thermal expansion. With this plate appearing to be plastic, I wouldn’t be surprised if it changes shape a lot when heated up. I’ve only looked at mine cold.
100-200 microns at room temperature or printing temperature? For what material?
I am getting an aluminum bed machined for the X1CC haha
Totally not a project I think everyone should step into.
Anyway try the glass bed above and let us know. I will share my opinion as well
I posted this in the P1P section and was told about this thread. Bambu considers this (see pic) within tolerance. It’s more than 1mm bowed in the middle. Crazy that they find it acceptable.
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Yeah I get what you’re saying … but no. 
Three points is all that is needed. Adding a fourth point causes it (as was already pointed out correctly) to be overconstrained.
This will result in uneven forces (magnified when the temp changes) that will warp the bed.
You might read up on this here:
(Although that one is pretty math intensive)
and also here:
wwww.machinedesign.com/mechanical-motion-systems/linear-motion/article/21832158/overconstraint-the-hidden-killer
The link won’t post properly on this forum, so I added an extra ‘w’ to www.xxxx , just copy and paste the address without the extra ‘w’. 
This discusses bearings, but the same principles apply and is written without a bunch of complex math, and is comprehensible.
Three points is a better system for bed mounting, period. This has been discussed for years across thousands of posts on every 3D forum out there.
The Bambu issue with bent beds is not related to the 3 point mounting system, and four points would not improve it.
Part of it is the thinness of the bed, which is why people are discussing machined plates as replacements (which are thicker as well as perfectly flattened).
Sadly, I suspect of all the challenges Bambu has faced producing these amazing machines, this one could be the one that causes them the most harm. They must get a handle on a real fix, and fast.
I’d like to remind everyone that for the majority of prints the Dual auto level system gives a perfectly adequate prints unless you need to have dead accurate parts.
So for those making assemblies or whole plates of parts that must be identical, it’s an issue, but if you’re making decorative, miniatures, or other parts that a fraction of a mm doesn’t matter, your good (yeah I know some are over 1mm).
Many, many people who are up in arms didn’t even know the issue existed until they read about it and now are carrying pitchforks.
Chill the heck out people. They’re working on it!
Keep in mind, I’m one of the poor souls who does do accurate work and has a bent bed. I’m upset, but I know they’ll get it sorted out.
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He’s got a brilliant solution and the price seems reasonable even to the US.
I look forward to your (Guinea pig 
) report. LOL!
Seriously, thanks for your constantly keeping us up on your ‘adventure’, you’ve done a real service to the rest of us dealing with this.
Personally, I’m awaiting movement on Bambu’s part. They may offer a Firmware patch that increases the number of probed points, but of course, that doesn’t fix it as it’s mechanical.
They have to fix this or I think they’ll find the storm they’re beginning to experience will turn into a hurricane and rip out their sea wall …
It’s already costing them an inordinate amount of money and stress, and taking their focus away from more important matters. The faster they fix this permanently the better for them and their customers.
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Hi all,
trying to catch up with the latest discussions and just hope that my profile or post won’t deleted again 
I am the maker of GoodPlate and yes my post got deleted. I feel really sad about that. I do understand that the forum mods do not want links to “commercial” competitive products. But actually that post had also contained a big/detailed “DIY” section. I have never seen my product (quick-temporary-fix) as competition by any means to Bambu nor did I ever bad mouth about Bambu or its printers… I still do freaking love my Bambu P1P! 
I truly hope that Bambu will bring out a new sort of bed or fix it with the next Bambu Printer Generation. GoodPlate is just meant to fill that gap either as DIY or bought…
In the meanwhile I am working on a more sophisticated solution than GoodPlate which might replace/upgrade the bed as a whole I still believe in that the Bambu Community especially P1P owners are “real” makers which shall be granted to modify share any component to boost their awesome printers even more!
Nevertheless thank you @Sayenah and @ThanksForAsking very much for your positive vibes
Happy printing all!
Hey man, I am the guy who you emailed back yesterday. Thanks for the great response and can’t wait to try out your product!
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My pleasure. Welcome back, always happy to see people helping out.
I get the Mods killing a paid post of a product, I hope they’ll be gentle on this one since you’re not posting a link.
Cheers!
It is good to hear from the manufacturer of this product. Can you give us some insight?
Like: Type of glass, what is the maximum temperature it is designed for, dimensions of the glass panel, what is the heat loss, and so on…
Thank you very much!!!
Feel your pain Brother. Truly.
This is a bloody talented community, who know what some clever Chap or Gal will offer up and we’ll all be here saying “Duh. Now why didn’t I think of that!?”
I am happily answering your question. In order to give the best/accurate answer I will describe the DIY solution here which is basically what I am doing:
Quick-Fix for DIY of GoodPlate:
-
Cut Glass into 258x258x2 mm dimensions
CAUTION: wear appropriate gloves!!
Type of glass: I am using float glass. Here you need a reliable supplier who is accurate regarding the 2 mm height and flatness. If you can afford use safety glass. But I don’t know how these type of glass handles heat transfer. Test for your own please. Once the magnetic-foil is placed onto the glass it also operates as a safety feature since it is flexible and holds the glass together in case you drop it. -
Magnetic-Foil 1.5 mm
You need either one single (very expensive and hard to handle) or couple of slices of magnetic foil with heat-resistent adhesive. If cheap adhesive is used the magnetic foil gets “floaty” on the glass bed or it comes of if you try to separate the PEI sheet from the magnetic foil, especially with high temperatures.
GoodPlate can handle 100 ° Celsius of heat for ABS print. Just keep in mind that the heat sensor is on the original bed which means to give GoodPlate additional 2-3 minutes to reach the desired target temperature. You can pre-heat your bed via Bambu Smartphone App or on Display of your printer. -
If you do print ABS and heat the bed upto 100 ° Celsus give it after the print a couple of minutes to reach at least 50 °. Reasons:
- Otherwise you will burn yourself. But that would have also happened without this solution hehe
- This gives time for the adhesive to get stiff fully
- Your ABS print will warp if you don’t let it cool slowly
-
Heat transfer
I have measured that the Bambu printer “used wattage” jumps between 70 Watt and 140 Watt during print and if you just have your heat bed on. The glass does not influences this measurably (at least with my devices). -
Mounting Clips
In fact the mounting clips which comes with my product are printed on GoodPlate with ABS. The mounting clips ensure that glass+magnetic foil construct doesn’t floats on the heat-bed. These clips are optimized (regarding height) for the factory textured PEI sheet. You can download the clip step files here to adapt it to different PEI sheets with different heights.
Feel free to ask me further questions if I was not detailed enough
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