Any chance you’d be willing to share your CAD file for your correction bed? I have a 1/4" thick piece of tooling plate coming, and was going to CNC my own at some point (i.e. when I get my replacement bed and can take it apart).
No, that isn’t better. Most 3D printers use 4 points of contact but in reality that actual causes bigger issues of bending. I know that’s hard to believe reading on here, but it’s well discussed further up.
Three points of contact is the most stable, geometrically correct way to hold the bed.
As long as you don’t go too bloody cheap on the construction … Basic design was right, execution wasn’t.
This whole thing was avoidable. The Accountants strike again.
No, it would be fine. That little of a weight change would be unnoticed.
Yeah, it can be done {Shudders} I’ve done it on a 310x310 CR-10S bed {Shudders severely} The doctors say I’ll be alright soon, the voices are getting quieter now.{Shudders}
Seriously, I did pull it off once before, it took a lot of work and was absolutely a last ditch effort before buying a replacement. It worked. It’s pretty much flat, small spot back center’s a touch off but I put an Automatic Bed Level system on it, works fine.
Just so you know this - in my leveling with Alum tape efforts my tape was pretty thin so I used some silicone tape then covered it with Alum tape.
Worked pretty well, but I was concerned about heat transfer so I warmed it and watched with a heat gun. There was 10°C difference where the silicone tape was. I removed and ordered thicker Alum Tape, worked fine.
That said, I imagine if you’re willing to allow longer warm up you’d be good.
Have people pointed so called ‘influencers’ at this thread and asked them to push this up the agenda for BL? Seems it warrants a more open discussion and response from Bambu Lab
Yes, that post was at least a month ago now, that’s when they told people to wait 4+ weeks for flatter beds.
It’s been radio silence since then, those beds are now arriving as warped if not worse than the originals.
Myself and others have tried to get some kind of info out of Will but I’m sure he’s not allowed to say anything on the matter unless directed to.
If replacements for replacements are arriving warped after 4+ weeks. I’m pretty confident in thinking this is going to be the standard. Unfortunately some people get good beds some don’t
It is not. Their agenda right now is to simply say that bowed beds are “within spec” and shift market focus toward folks for whom a bowed bed is a non-issue. Businesses are amoral entities after all.
First hand experience. They have sent me two replacements, each worse than the last. The last one has 0.60mm dips. Sent them pictures, and now they are claiming that visually it seems “within spec” and I need to install it to send them data so they can “verify”. I am not spending 4 hours installing a bed which looks worse than the one already in.
They have also refused a return which has forced me to start the dispute/chargeback process.
So, no, they don’t want to “fix” this. They are going to save the “fix” for a Pro version
The above guy is right. Social media push is necessary.
Today, I received a new heatbed for my 3D printer. Although it wasn’t perfect (with a 0.35mm dip at 25°C and a 0.15mm dip at 60°C), it was a significant improvement compared to my original heatbed, which had a 0.7mm dip. My original heatbed was leveled with aluminum tape, reducing the dip to ~0.15mm. I wasn’t sure if it was worth spending a few hours replacing it using the official heatbed replacement procedure, so I opted for a shortcut and replaced only the heated bed, leaving the frame intact, like denkiopmn did.
Note: This procedure is significantly easier if you’re replacing a v3 heatbed with another v3 heatbed.
Press the Home button on your printer to enable uninterrupted control over the axes.
Move the toolhead to the maximum rear position by pressing the “Y” button several times. Lower the heated bed by 3cm by pressing the “-10” button three times.
Turn off the printer and disconnect the power cable. Be cautious, as the heatbed’s AC power is likely 220 volts.
Unscrew the three tramming nuts. The bed will rise a few millimeters. Make sure not to lose any components. At this stage, you should have:
6. Remove the two power cable covers using the 2mm hex (Allen) key that came with your printer, and disconnect the power cables.
7. Remove the ground cable using the same Allen key.
At this point, you should have completely disconnected the heatbed from the frame.
When installing the new heatbed, ensure that you reattach the plastic power cable covers!
After installing your new heatbed, perform a manual tramming procedure by following the manual bed leveling guide.
Additional Information for v2 Heatbed Owners:
Unfortunately, my original heatbed was a v2 model, making the power cable removal process quite challenging. Unlike the v3 design, the v2 heatbed features a JST-like connector for the power cables, which is covered in silicone. Moreover, the plastic cover is not removable. In my case, I had to cut the entire plastic cover of the power cable on the original heatbed to remove the power cables, and even then, the socket broke, requiring me to solder it back in place.
I really do not recommend trying this shortcut procedure if you have v2 heatbed.
There are people who like bowed beds? Is that even a thing?
So, the social media push will clue in people who don’t know they have bowed beds? Dissuade newcomers from purchasing Bambu Lab printers? Or?
Seems odd that we’d need help from “influencers” to let Bambu Lab know flat beds are desirable. I mean, a flat bed must have been one of their top goals. Or they at least met that goal since many who received the first batch of printers apparently have flat beds.
Brother, I have no argument with you. You are employing logic which works when both entities are incentivized. Given their responses we can tell that people who are looking for reasonably flat beds are not their target audience. Is it a change in business strategy? Market segment selection? Who knows. All we know is that it is not worth their time to sort this issue out but double down, instead, on “it’s within spec”.
Right now social media push will incentivize them (as they surely don’t want this to damage their credibility) to pay more attention to the market segment, which in my humble opinion, is on the chopping block. Namely, us. So yeah, definitely influencers can help.
Why are we even arguing against a pro-consumer stance here? Seems silly.
And yes, there is a HUGE market segment, the Etsy crowd, for whom flat beds don’t matter as much as they matter to us. Frankly if you are looking to print figures and household kitsch, none of this banana bed drama should concern you. Bambu offerings work just fine in those use cases.
There are several people who have told me that their beds are warped but haven’t caused issues so they don’t care enough to put in a ticket/complain.
The warping can also vary greatly, some are warped more, some less, which means some beds are good and flat, some are excessively warped & some people will never even notice their beds are warped.
So no they don’t “like” bowed beds but many won’t notice or have issues because of them & to many people(in many aspects of life) if THEY aren’t having the issue you’re having its easier for them to pretend it doesn’t exist
A few day ago I’ve received my replacement Heatbed, a V2. This one out of the box was already warped, not as much as the one the printer came with but still warped too much. I don’t see the point in replacing the whole Heatbed assembly knowing full well this won’t magically unwarp it. In its current state the printer is useless for the things I print which makes it even more frustrating.
A replacement with a new version, V4 whichever, that is different in its construction all together would be the solution. Just sending out and have heatbeds replaced does not seem like the solution for a lot of people. One can only wonder about the amount of warped heatbeds that haven’t been noticed or reported yet and what would happen once this gets noticed.
If we are not arguing then you are right, we are not. My speculation is that like any business in its nascent stages, BL is picking and choosing market segments. This is a crucial part of building a mass market product.
There is indeed a risk that our issues are not going to be the focus here in the near future. It is a competitively priced product where supply can’t keep up with demand. I am sure this is not true in your case, but if I am selling boardgame meeples and soapdishes on Etsy, all I need is a fast AMS equipped printer, and a flat enough bed.
All I am saying is that folks above are right. Social media influencers need to jump in on this. At the very least it could potentially incentivize BL to not forgo our market segment.
Place it over your current heatbed and heat it to 70-80. On my replacement bed the dip went from 0.35 to just 0.15 on 60 degrees. 0.15 is not good, but usable. With few layers of tape you could even make it flat
I’m not so sure this is the best tactic, especially given their refusal to engage about the problem in public.
Does it make sense to have a perfectly flat bed before the install? I would think that a slightly bowed bed once secured and heated could expand into a flatter bed. But that’s just speculative.
I haven’t done the bed swap so I don’t know what’s involved with that, but I would think the only way to know for sure would be to install it and have it at least at minimum heat before you could know if it was truly warped or not.
An interesting question. It seems most people (everyone?) is posting pictures of bowed cold beds. And then there are many people saying their beds are more level when heated.
Well, it has a different power connector on either end so you need to replace power PCB or change connector. In any case if you have a crimping tool it’s as easy as cutting those two wires and crimping two lugs on them instead of original connector. As of Changing v2 to v2, silicone can be cut quite easily with a scalpel or fine knife and then connector can be removed without too much problems.
Matt I am an open minded guy trying to make this work haha. But I am not going to spend 4 hours trying to put in a bed which is bowed to the naked eye. If Bambu can make it work, and there is some magic I am not privy to, they are welcome to exchange my printer for one where the bed is capable of printing out a nice flat whole bed first layer, which is the norm for most of their customers. I offered them the exchange option.
Secondly, I don’t truly care what makes sense from their perspective about not engaging in social media or whatever . I really don’t. I want consumer protection for folks in this thread. So should you.
It’s simple to remove the bed when it’s in your hands, but it becomes challenging when it’s inside the printer. At least in my case, I couldn’t cut through the silicone and remove the connector without breaking it, as there was insufficient space. Moreover, my original bed had an excessive amount of silicone. If I ever have to go through this process again (which I don’t intend to), I would simply cut the cables instead.