really, please, if you dont know materials science, please dont comment just for comment… please stop making up storeis but instead listen to what you are told about the rigidy of the plastic frame VS the steel sheet. please
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I received my X1C combo this Monday. Printed about 1kg of filament so far and it’s been working quite well with the stock cool plate, glue stick and PLA. In terms of warp I put a ruler across the bed in a few orientations and saw some gaps. I performed a print of a discard chute that took up the majority of the build plate (3 quadrants about) and after it cooled i took the print off and put it on a table and the resulting print had no wobble to it and sat flat. I’m not sure I received a perfectly flat bed but it seems ok so far! Maybe things will change when I print with other filament that does better with a hotter bed
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I got mine in Dec and its not bad at all. Does it get worse over time?
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I own a manufacturing company that works primarily with plastics and have done so for almost 20 years.
Feel free to point out what I’ve posted that is a “made up story.”
Is it a steel sheet now? I’m still waiting on my warped bed to arrive so I can do some testing myself, but so far multiple people have stated in this thread that it’s a 3mm thick aluminum sheet.
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FYI, I saw someone joke on here about using an old bed to fix a new bed by heating it…
I thought this was a joke, but can confirm that I was able to reduce the “bow” of my bed by 50% or so by doing this.
I took my old, uninstalled bed and put it on the new installed bed upside down. Doing this makes both magnetic sheets attract to each other. I then set it to 110C and let it sit for a few hours. After letting it cool (it takes a WHILE) I then removed the old bed (which takes a lot of force due to the magnets), and rechecked.
I went from a 0.4mm gap to less than 0.2mm gap in the center of my bed. Hopefully it stays fixed for a while. 
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This isn’t a good way to measure bed flatness, especially if you’re using just a regular ruler (which probably isn’t straight to begin with) and using light from behind to determine the gap. A bright light is going to make gaps appear larger than they actually are.
Gotta use an engineering ruler and feelers or a gauge indicator if you want to know how flat your bed is.
Much more accurate way to determine bed flatness than using your eyes.
Bro. Stop!! Did this actually work?? Holy Sh*t!! 
I made that joke actually. I swear nothing is a better fix than that!
Be aware that with so many slice an such thickness, you may have to wait a long time for heat to transfer to the top, and the sensor wich is at the bottom will think too early that the correct temperature have been reached.
As an outside observer I just want to say thank you to everyone on this thread putting pressure on Bambu to resolve this as well as working on 3rd party solutions. I have had an X1C sitting in my cart for a few weeks now and don’t plan on pulling the trigger until there is a reasonable resolution.
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Good. This #BambuBanana is unacceptable.
Keep an eye out on the K1 Max though (but it is Creality after all )
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I will never buy another creality product! NEVER!
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So you think that a cheap clone from a company with a terrible track record of quality and reliability is a better user experience? Well, spent you money on it if you like.
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This makes sense.
I wonder if the two magnets are forcing each bed flat (since they’d naturally want to be attached to each other with the most surface area contact possible, not allowing for any dips in the surface). Then by raising the temperature of the pieces in that flat state, you’re basically post curing the plastic frame and increasing its glass transition temperature. This makes the plastic much stronger and rigid, and much less susceptible to warping as it’s being heated.
Ideally, if others want to try this, you should use some thick blankets to smother the printer to keep the warmth in the print chamber for as long as possible. Keeping it at a high temp for longer will help in raising the glass transition temperature. But the real key is ramping down the cooling to be as slow as possible. Cooling too quickly will cause everything to retract quickly and could cause additional warping. But keeping the warmth in the print chamber with blankets or other insulation will help the pieces cool at a much slower rate.
It should work. And increasing the the glass transition temperature of the plastic is permanent, so it should retain that strength moving forward, especially since the working temperature of the print bed is normally lower than 110C.
Come on, did you see what I wrote in parentheses? 
Creality is cancer, but hey, let’s see if they turn this ship around. They have every incentive to.
I might actually try this guys if I find time
Hum… just wondering who will make the 1000th answer on this thread
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I suspect it could be just that magnetic rubber sticker adhesive separated from aluminum. Try rubbing it a bit in the middle and re-check if gap remains the same.
LOL you could be on to something.
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I printed out your widget. I used the 3mf file. Success the first time! 
The bed is within .25mm, which is perfectly good for me as a hobbyist. One spot back where it does the nozzle cleaning routine it went .3mm.
Great project and answered if i was close to flat or not.
p.s. I did have to file down the underside of the pointer so it did not rub on the dial plate. Maybe my magnet was too thin. Didnt measure it.
Cheers for wonderful tool!
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I finally got around to pulling the sticker on the replacement bed and checked the aluminum plate. The plate is flat. I dunno how off the sticker is or if the sticker is sitting up on the plastic. Now that said with my engineering ruler against it, I can easily deform the hole assembly by the amount we are worried about. It isn’t that stiff. I know people said the aluminum plate is hard to deflect, it is not. I can easily deflect it a mm with 2 fingers.
Edit: When I decouple the steel bracket from the bottom, the aluminum plate/plastic housing are still dead flat together. So at least in my case its something with the sticker or sticker and plastic housing edges.
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