I’ve been having this same recurring problem (curling and warping away from the print bed) since I’ve owned the A1. It happens when using PLA, PTEG, any of the 3 print plates I own (textured PEI plate, High-temp plate, Engineering plate), cleaning with soap and water, using glue stick, NOT using glue stick, wiping with Isopropyl, plus I’ve tried all the solutions mentioned in software (turning off the fan for first 3 layers, adjusting layer height, increasing bed temp), but it’s still happening even when using brims!
I ordered the new Bambu Lab cool plate super tack, perhaps that will finally solve this problem once and for all!?!
SuperTack will (!) help!
I never used a plate with such a good adhesion. I always have problems to get the prints off the plate.
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OH that is so good to hear - it’s on the way now.
Strange that this issue happens intermittently but when it rears its head, it goes away by itself and seems hard to figure out what stopped it!
Hi,
Perhaps this could help you :
Looks like bed adhesion is good but the heavy warping is lifting up the build plate.
Use thoroughly dried filament, avoid any drafts around the printer, crank up the rooms heating to reduce print temp differentials, print with reduced layer heights and maybe even slow down.
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Thanks for posting that. I have done that twice already since I’ve owned it (most recently done a few months ago) but might need to try it a 3rd time.
Does anyone know how often manual tramming should be done usually?
Good suggestions. I have recently moved the printer from a relatively enclosed location in my office closet to a more open area in my garage, and the temps in the garage are around 58°F and certainly more drafty than the office, so not ideal conditions. However I had this same issue happen quite a few times when the unit was in the office closet, so I can’t assume the issue is just the garage space.
I also recently purchased and started using a filament dryer that can dry out one spool at a time, and will start “baking” my spools for a few hours before using them. The humidity sensors in my plastic dry boxes I store my filament in are at 35-45%. I have unfortunately seen this happening with brand-new spools though.
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My solution that i found is:
1: Reduce acceleration for the first layer(i found 100mm/s^2 works the best for me)
2: PLA use 55 C for the bed temp(!!!NOT MORE THAN RECOMENDED!!!. I tried it because i thought that more is better BUT I WAS WRONG)
3: Slow down the first layer to around 20-30mm/s
4: Reduce the Auxiliary fan to 50%
Yes. Over 55c pla softens and then warping is really easy. All stuff warps, but pla/petg is just minimal compared to ABS Asa and PC
Ooh, thanks for this. I’ll make these changes and see. I’m currently on the last 30 min of a gridfinity print, and this time I tried using the high temp plate with gluestick and turned up to 75C.!! I also just thought of this but I’m going to let the build plate cool down OFF the printer rather than letting it cool on the heat bed. Kind of like letting cookies cool on a rack instead of in the cooling oven!? Worth a try.
I am more conserned about the irregularity of your layers.
I just ordered a1 last month to replace my ender 3 v3 coreXZ
Hoping to get better result than that…
The layer irregularities are due to the warping. As the lower layers lift up, the upper layers still try to print evenly and squash the layers below it.
My other prints that don’t have the warping print really nicely. This camera setting didn’t do it justice but this is what just came off the printer and didn’t warp:
Actually, a few degrees can make a surprisingly large difference regarding warping and curling. It happens when a hot layer deposited on a cooler layer cools itself and shrinks, pulling up the edges.
But you are right, moisture has a big effect on the thermal and flow behaviour of the material. I usually spot moist material by minor edge curling as it is usually the first defect to show when moisture affects rheology and thermal properties.
Unfortunately, measurements of the ambient humidity in the storage does not actually mean much without knowing the original filament condition. It is quite common that new rolls arrive quite saturated. And just sitting in a dryer environment will not force moisture to leave the filament. They have been sitting in a warehouse after manufacturing, a seaside dock in a container, travelled across the oceans, waited again in warehouses, …, before finally arriving for you to print.
Nowadays, I usually just dry fresh rolls before putting them in the AMS. At least that way I know that they are dry.
Edit: My usual assumption:
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Haha! Thanks. I just picked up a single spool dryer and I now consider it to be an essential part of any 3D printing setup and I’ve only just started using it this week!
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@EnoTheThracian has excellent advice. My own experience with PLA is those top surface defects when a corner starts lifting are the first signs I saw too when filament moisture was too high.
And those humidities in storage are too high (IMO). You are basically letting your filament humidify to that level and that’s in the ballpark for where I saw my own moisture issues.
If there is silica gel in those storage boxes it probably needs regeneration. With good/dry silica gel in them, humidities should pull down very low. And if you only have filament in them, if the filament is “dry” humidity should still pull down low.
In museum and archive applications, silica gel is used both to remove moisture and add moisture to containers and display cases. It works both ways. To make silica gel add moisture, they just expose it to an environment with the desired relative humidity and it absorbs moisture to that level. Put it in a sealed container and it drives the humidity to close to the level it was conditioned to. That is the same as leaving silica gel sitting out to condition to ambient humidity. Drop those packs into storage with filament and it will try to humidify the filament just like old books or parchment, etc.
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I agree with @MZip that the high humidity reading indicates pretty saturated dessiccant. And that can be rather undesireable in the AMS. Also, many thanks @MZip on that insight regarding the use of dessiccant for deliberate moisturizing. I was not aware of that.
I have my AMS fully loaded with dessiccant in the 2 drying boxes in the back, 2 of the five front “slots” and each spool center. The remaining 3 at the front are for some acid free activated charcoal (smell suppression) and a hygrometer. The hygrometer always reads 10%, its absolute minimum. Once it shows 11%, I know that moisture is rising and the dessiccant needs to be rejuvenated in a microwave in order to keep humidity suppressed.
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Thanks for those details. I have some packs of dessicant in the bins, but also two “rechargeable” dehumidifiers that plug in to warm them back up and rejuvenate them before going back into the bins.
I’ve been going through my spools and baking them at 60-70C for 6-8 hours before using them or putting them back in the bins.
I’ll aim to keep my bins around the 20% or lower mark… Basically as low as I can get the relative humidity. Storage is important but most importantly, baking the spools before using is the best I can do.
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Absolutely. Kepping AMS humidity down will help storage time before needing to re-bake, but it’ll not remove moisture from filament.
As a side anecdote: when I used BVOH in the AMS, it very effectively kept my dessiccant dry 
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It was surprising when I found that use but makes total sense. There are companies that even sell silica gel bead packs “preconditioned” to a range of humidities to keep specific moisture contents in display cases, etc.
Here’s a discussion…
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Be careful with that, though. There are some temperatures points filaments can change their behaviors at. Others know those aspects better but you can heat filament too much. Just a heads up.
Absolutely. That’s a thing about getting moisture out of filament. It doesn’t take much water to change filament behavior (2-3g on a kg full spool can do it) and it holds on pretty tight where heat is necessary to get it out in any realistic time frame. Desiccant packed with filament in storage just helps scavenge any moisture that sneaks in before it settles into the filament. It doesn’t really dry the filament all that much. That’s why you want it always more dry than the filament or else as with the museum/archive cases, you can actually be adding water to your filament.