Have we got any Speeds? I’m having same issues.. Now using @Pera72 setting on H2S but some warping until i set to silent mode were things seem to be getting more reliable.
I didn’t change the speeds from the Bambu default profiles, just the temperatures.
What were the setting you used. I’ve been trying all of these reliable setting everyone post but getting no where. I have engineering plate coming but only have textured to hand now. X1c never had a problem but H2s seems to be struggling more than expected.
hello all, I know this is an old thread but thought I would give my 2cents on the warping issue with pa6. I have two machines that I use the x1c and p2s. I now print 90% of my items with pa6-cf. I had warping issues with both machines. it took a months to figure them out. Here is the list of things that I found help solve that issue. sorry if this gets long but it was quite the journey.
- first and foremost, you all know there is no way around it dry the filament first. I dry in the AMS ht for 12hours at 80c. If the RH is below 10 printing can happen, if not dry again for another 12hr. It doesn’t matter if it is a brand-new spool or not. a min. of 12 hr of drying is needed. I would highly recommend that you use a desiccant holder in the middle of the spool. There is just no way to get enough desiccant packs in the ams ht. to help keep the filament dry. there are lots of options in Makers World to pick from.
- I went all over the board changing temp and flow settings. In the end I found the default Bambo setting worked the best, for the most consistent print with a good balance in strength and quality. yes a few degrees up or down on plate temp or nozzle temp does have an effect and is effective for balancing out each machine as they all act slightly different. finding the rout cause in the environmental conditions, hardware, or part orientation was the biggest gains in combatting the warping vs settings alone.
- Hot end. Yes I had some good prints with .4 nozzle but few. clogs were an issue on both machines. switching to .6 nozzle with the .24 layer height setting gave the best visual and was faster then .4. Nozzle clogs where almost a thing of the past. .6 nozzle with .3 layer height is my standard I use now. Note: I have ran into a spool here and there that the quality of the filament was well……not great. ovality was not up to the standards. when that happens i use a .6 HF nozzle. but that is pretty rare.
- Pre heating the camber was a big game changer. By all means close the door and any and all vents in the riser. heat is your biggest friend. the X1C takes a far bit longer then the P2S to achieve, but I found that a min chamber temp of 43c at the start of the print limited the amount of warping. Most of my prints are a min of 6 hours and most are 17hours. the chamber temp at the end is most always in the 55c range.
- Print plates. well….. lets say I have a collection of plates now that balances on absurdness. In the end the Bambo engineering plate with Bambo PA glue stick had the highest level of success. Do note that I did find that using a smooth PEI plate would bubble the plate after 3-5 uses. Yes it worked but plate consumption due to damage was high. Cold plate is my second choice.
- Let the print cool down slowly as possible. I have set up a heated cooling rack. I remove the plate within 30mins of the print finishing and place it on a stack of microfiber towel and cover it with towels and a heating blanket let on low. this allows the print to cool down over several hours vs. fulling cooling down in the printer.
- Print orientation was another big thing. you would think that hey this part has a nice flat bottom lets set the print on that. well, that is not always the case. I make these L shape brackets that are 25mm deep 60mm long and 45mm tall with 3mm thickness they would always warp the base. as soon as i turned it vertical zero warping overall better look, and stronger. Yes, I had to add 3 grams of support in doing that plus some mouse ears, but to keep a 30-gram part from warping beyond use was a good trade off to me.
- As we all know PA6-cf when dried is very stiff. Making sure that the PTFE tube has smooth radius and is not limited in its movement is another key thing. All those little clips that I added to hold the PTFE tubes nice along the back, in the waste backet now. the tube has to have room to move. IF you ever watch the filament load in you wouldn’t believe your eyes on how much the tube changes shape do to the stiffness of the filament. I would highly recommend a riser of a min of 25mm to stop the tube from contacting the glass top. that caused more of filament extruder issues but worth noting. replacement of PTFE tube will be needed if you are doing any volume of printing with CF or GF. I am lucky to get 6 spools before tube ware is an issue. Also if you are using the star PTFE tubing keep an extra eye on it. CF/gf is so abrasive it will eat the ridges off the star in no time at all leading to over size mis shaped tube. the star tube is a great idea but just not for filaments with high abrasiveness.
- last and final thing. this is for the P2S. the air exchanger/filter on the right side of the chamber blows directly onto the print plate. this was a fun one to find. As it depended on print orientation to whether or not you would have warping or not. the air movement created a colder spot in the center of the plate. I ended up printing a diverter that directs that air at a 45deg angle up to eliminate that air flow from over cooling the parts after the first 3 layers. I could sit and watch the part warp as soon as the air filter turned on.
Sorry this is so long. it was a journey for sure. with so much learned along the way. I hope this might help you all with printing PA6-CF/GF. Happy printing.