I’ve seen a lot of topic here on warping PLA, I tried everything I’ve read here and there, nothing seems to work. If you have any ideas I’m taking it gratefully.
I’ve printed with my X1C for around 1200 hours, without any problems, from PLA to ASA/ABS.
Here is what I tried so far :
Changing models, it warp with any models so far.
Cutting off the aux fan, tried around 20 to 40% either, same results.
Bought new plates, It warp on cool plates like Biqu and on Bambu PEI Gold plate/Smooth PEI.
Removed top and opened the door during printing. I tried to change temp on the bed in the range of every plates too.
Tried another brands, I’m printing most of all with Rosa3D PLA, but I’ve got warping even with Polyterra & Bambu PLA.
Calibrated my filaments, with Dynamic flow & all, even temp tower.
I calibrate the bad at every prints.
I’m using Bambu studio and I use Generic PLA profile, never had any problems (that I tuned with the results of the calibrations).
My printer and Bambu studio are up to date.
It has nothing to do with the Jetpack Biqu installed on the head, I work with it for around 400 hours now and I didn’t have a single problem.
I looked at my first layers they are perfect at every print.
I did not see drying filament in the list of attempted remedies. New filament is frequently moist as the bags can not stop moisture. They only slow the diffusion into the bag. After a long sea voyage… Warping/curling is usually the first visible indication of filament moisture.
Give your filament(s) a run in the drier or use the printer to dry.
Warping and curling occur when a fresh layer cools and hence shrinks on top of an already cooler layer. The fresh layer also injects additional heat into the older layer, causing renewed shrinking. So there are a number of things you can do to minimize warping:
Keep the build chamber as warm as you can while avoiding heat creep. For PLA, I go for 35-39°C. In case of ironing being used or print having many retracts, do not exceed 35°C.
Inject less heat per layer: Use a lower layer height (at least for the lowest inch or so).
Slow heat injection by slowing down the print (at least for the lowest inch or so).
I agree with the above, need to keep the chamber warmer, but not too warm risking heat creep. You might be able to get away with turning cooling down on larger objects too.
Hello guys and thanks for your time and your answers. Sorry for the late reply.
1 - Well, you made a point. I totally forgot to speak about drying filament. For each roll of filament I get, I dry it 24h then they are all kept in dry boxes, my AMS got silicate gel and an hygrometer, I’m always at 20% max humidity in it. And when I got the problem I tried to dry my filament in a Creality dryer while printing so I suppose the problem is not coming from this part.
2 - I’m always at around 35° during printing, the door of the printer is closed and I just have the top glass open a little to avoid overheat.
3 - I’m printing at 0.20mm layer for most of my prints. You mean I should print my first layers at 0.16mm ?
4 - I’ve used the normal speed of the printer since the beginning, I don’t even know how to slow it for the first layers but I’m gonna give a try.
5 - I turned cooling down and tried for 0 - 20% and I had no results.
Hi guys,
I am also experiencing warping problems when printing PLA and ABS with my X1C. Everything worked perfectly until I had to change the hotend fan, and since then it’s been impossible to get it to print properly. I’ve also tried the same solutions as @DeadPyxel without success…
