Thank you. That was a great read. I am definitely not the only one with that issue.
I have never edited a gcode before, and there was a lot of information and different questions and issues with gcode being different on different printers.
Is there any tutorial to learn how to do make the profile for PETG/PLA step by step (treat me as if I am 5 years old).
The printers being at my place of work, makes it inconvenient to do a lot of testing, as time is money. Want to do it as efficiently as possible.
Thank you very much. Great to have all of you enthusiasts share your knowledge.
I look forward to try that.
I went from a hobbyist with an Elegoo Neptune 3 with a little knowledge, to a job where I design and and make spare parts and solutions for costumers in a small company, just expanding to 3D print, so I have a lot of catching up to do. We have a H2S and X2D now, but hope for a H2C soon, and maybe a resin printer too.
Tried the profile today. Almost immediate disaster
I dried the filaments for 12 hours. Then I went through the flow calibration for each filament. Cleaned the TPI plate with isopropyl alcohol and gave it a thin layer of Glue Stick.
Also made the 45 degree vent cover to redirect the cooling up, and not directly at the print.
Selected outside brim, just to be sure it would not warp from the print plate.
But it did not start well.
Maybe I should have skipped the Glue stick. Just had good results with that before.
The actual rinsing of the soap is more important than clean Make sure not to use any fancy moisturizing dish soaps. If it squeaks under your finger while rinsing the soap clean, that means it’s good.
I’ve actually stopped drying plates after I wash them. I give them a good shake and put them back on a warm print bed. By the time a print starts they are bone dry.
Finally was able to print the model without it warping on the support material. Thank you very much for your help.
I changed the design a bit too, to get more contact area with the support. All those things together made the difference
Print quality also improved, but there is still a small flaw with the print.
There is a clearly visible bulge, where the support material stops.
Guessing its because the layers don’t get to cool as much, when there isn’t a stop to change nozzle and purge into the print tower on each layer.
Has anyone found a solution for that issue? I have the same issue if i print several things on a print plate, and one thing is higher than the others. Once the other models are finished, there is a visible change in the layers of the taler one.
Usually just avoid having one model being much higher than others, but would be nice if there was a solution for that.
Maybe the time between layers in the cooling settings?
Make sure not to use any fancy moisturizing dish soaps. If it squeaks under your finger while rinsing the soap clean, that means it’s good.
