Warping with PC on P1S

[ramcdona]

I’m printing on a P1S with Bambu clear PC filament using default settings on a Smooth PEI plate, using Bambu glue stick on the build plate. 0.4 mm Nozzle, standard flow, 0.2mm layer height.

The model is an 8" (~200mm) square with a base that is 0.1" (2.54mm) thick and stiffening ribs that are also 0.1" thick.

I have had some experience with bed adhesion / warping issues on smaller PC prints where the corners lifted up, so I modeled a sacrificial brim (0.5" (12.7mm) wide, 0.25" (6.35mm) thick) around the model with a heavy chamfer that left .005" (0.127mm) of material connecting the brim to the base.

Well, I had great bed adhesion this time. However, the warping was so bad that about 0.25" into the print, the build plate overcame the magnets and popped up. The print completed and the top surface is flat. There is a clear defect in the side of the print from when it popped and of course the bottom of the print is domed instead of flat.

Any suggestions for how to get a flat print in PC on a large part like this?

I’m not sure whether to try a hotter or colder build plate, perhaps a pause between layers – or faster printing somehow?

Maybe a PLA raft?

[h3li0]

you need a heated chamber, i think there are some third party ones that can be adapted to the P1S

[MK4S_H2D]

Well, PC warps like mad usually with vertical walls at a 90 degree angle on the base.

I did a bunch of PC prints recently and a few things that could help:

• use PC with carbon fibers (less warping, but more brittle)
• use PC blend from Prusament (less warping, pretty similar characteristics like normal PC but rather expensive)
• try to increase bed adhesion as much as possible (glue, high temperature 110 - 120 °C)
• Disable “elephant foot compensation” and add a big brim (like 15 mm) with 0 mm distance (will be annoying to remove but with my tests even 0.1 mm distance to the brim it was tearing the brim off when warping started)
• and of course: heated chamber (at least 60 °C)