Does anyone know if this primer is able to produce water (or better still, gas tight) parts? I am hoping that we can get close to a resin printer in this regard.
We are looking to print some machine parts that must not “leak”.
Cheers!
Thomas
Does anyone know if this primer is able to produce water (or better still, gas tight) parts? I am hoping that we can get close to a resin printer in this regard.
We are looking to print some machine parts that must not “leak”.
Cheers!
Thomas
The key to this is generally to print with 100% infill,limited part cooling, and ensure you’re just verging on the edge of overextruded.
The orientation and complexity of your parts will change the difficulty of achieving water tight prints though.
i printed already a couple of water tight prints ( mainly vases … and some car parts )
i just use 4 walls , 6 top/bothom and monotonic finish at 0.16 layer height
at 2 walls it seems to leak , but at 4 or even 6 walls it is leak proof
this also depends on material and complexibility and layer height ofcourse
100% infill is not needed ,i just use 10% infill as the walls provide plenty of strengt already
and depending on the part you print it is possible that it already becomes solid
but be sure to have atealst 4 walls so it can seal properly
I followed the prusa blog instructions to print a watertight part, it has never worked for me before but it did on the X1. I think it was something like smaller layers, more walls and higher extrusion multiplier in the filament settings.
i also tested it on my prusa , and it is more a nightmare on prusa then on the bambu
the prusa seems to create tiny holes in some of my prints , but that was fixed by increasing the walls to 4+
the top and bothom where the worste , so atleast 6 layers is recommend for them
at some point i was even using concentric top/bothom layer , but that only works for certain prints ( mainly round prints ) as above it it will go to the default “line/monotonic” mode and then if it is a square your prints contains massive holes
so for that reason i just stick to 4 walls and 6 top/bothom then atleast the holes get sealed wiht a single layer in worste case
at 2 walls it leaks most of the time ( sometimes it works flawless ) , at 4 walls it never leaked for me ( exept top/bothom ) , so at 6 top/bothom it never leaked anymore for me
to put it in perspective , 4 walls means 4 inner walls and 4 outer walls , so a total of 8 walls basicly (double sealed )
to explain it easy , filament put layers on layer, so any gap in there need to be sealed and by placing layers next to it it start to seal the other layers
by using only 2 walls it just seals in the middle , by using 4 walls it does the same 4 times and seals all possible holes caused by under extrusion or over extrusion
A vase is not a water tight part. Think of something with pressure like a hose end.
if you can use a vase as a bucket and it is not leaking ? is it then not water tight ?
atleast it is sealed and leak free then
never printed parts that need to work unde pressure , only part i created that needed to be enclosed and leak free was a car part
Hi Everyone, Happy New Year !!
How do I adjust the number of “walls” in the Bambulab slicer in Vase mode? Is it even possible? Also, I would like to make the first layer considerably thicker than the side walls. Is this possible?
Maybe this is a little “Newbee”… but heck, I am one.
Thomas
There is not much pressure in a vase. A hose pipe is more like 2.5 Bar, the vase is atmoshperic plus a small amount for the height of the water.