Hey everyone, I’m experiencing a strange case of ripples. When my 90mmx23mmx4mm block is placed such that the length is along the x-axis, I start to get ripples only when moving to the right. These are the order of events I went through to try solving the problem:
Printed a coupon with white overture PLA using the default overture profile, 99% rect infill, 30 wall loops, first layer outer wall and infill 50/150 mm/s respectively and at 70/200 for subsequent layers on textured plate.
Same as 1 but flow calibrated with k factor of 0.025 and flow ratio of 0.931
Same as 2 but changed to high temp smooth plate
Same as 3 but bumped temp to 230
Same as 4 but turned off aux fan
Tried centering belt as best as I could, recalibrated, and used profile from step 5 still on the overture pla and same problem. So I reprinted with default bambu pla basic for a green roll that came with machine and same problem again.
In the end, I oriented the original part I wanted to print with the long axis along the y-axis which resulted in the ripples now showing up on short end and again only when traveling to the right.
Following picture shows the 6 variations I went through top down, with the 7th coupon on the side showing a flawless first layer. Received this printer 5 days ago and I printed a few parts out of ABS and PETG, poop chute and desiccant containers, prior to this pla print. Help would be appreciated!
0.2 first layer and 0.1 rest. However, not sure if that would matter because through the steps above, I think I isolated it to right movement along x-axis. I don’t see it when moving left along length along x-axis nor when moving along length in y-axis front and back.
I see lifting from the bed. This is common with ABS without glue, or making sure the chamber is over 40c before printing. They also may have released after sitting a while when you finished printing. If they did start to curl up like this, while you were printing, that would cause the issue you see. I can’t say for sure the order of things.
According to Quillbot, 80% of this text is AI generated. Long AI responses with generic troubleshooting steps that don’t actually employ deductive reasoning to arrive at solutions usually overwhelm. A experienced human can use critical thinking to arrive at target solutions that are actionable.
20% critical human thinking, formatted by AI for clarity and structure, represents working smarter, not harder.
I have 15 years of experience in building, modifying, and designing within this field.
I value my time highly and only share information that I have thoroughly vetted and personally agree with.
This is the reality of the world we live in today.
If you disagree with anything I’ve posted, please let me know. I believe this is a comprehensive list of troubleshooting procedures that I would follow myself.
@movingimage not sure what gives the impression of lifting, is it the bend in the brim or bow in the coupon? If so, that would just be because of how I peeled it off the bed because they were stuck down really well. These were all pla prints that lasted 5 min
What’s really peculiar about this problem, which maybe I’m not stressing enough, is that it is only happening when traveling to the right in a straight line whether it was the 90mm edge or the 23mm of the coupon. As the picture shows, the problem features are not exhibited on the other half where the toolhead is moving left instead.
I realize I have been using orca, so now I think I’ll see if bambu studio with same profiles would slice differently and therefore mean gcode command issues.
Quite the consolidated list of items to check. I’ve effectively done most of these to no avail. I would like to avoid slowing down further as I’ve used these settings for lithophanes on my klipper ender 3 v2 with success, so a core xy should easily handle it and I bought this machine specifically for higher reliability, faster print speeds, ams functionality, and relatively small footprint with an enclosure. I’ll try some of the other points mentioned though.
I might have figured out the problem. I suspected the ripples were from high speed airflow above a semi-liquid surface, much like a breeze above the ocean, so I turned off the aux fan as mentioned in beginning of thread, but that didn’t solve it. Well, I revisited that theory and turned off part cooling too, and what do you know, ripples seem to be gone now when traveling to the right. I’d like to do some more testing to confirm, but for now if you see ripples and you already tried all the other suggestions like cold pull, calibrating z offset, calibrating flow, etc and still no luck, you might just be cooling too much or unevenly (bambu duct for part cooling is asymmetric) so mess with the fan settings.
That’s an interesting effect, would you mind sharing the 3mf to replicate it? I think you mentioned the filament but if you have a link I’d like to try the exact one. Anything else special about your P1/nozzles/fans?
Hello i have the same problem with new P1S.
Problem printing the second layer at normal speed on this project:
search 205230 on makerworld
At normal project speed on the second layer I have waves and noise occurring.
If I switch to silent mode so speed divided by 2 it no longer does it!
Watch video: search on google, fNXdtUnsg84, video on french 3D forum
What’s the problem?
THANKS
I reduced flow to the point of under extruding and still had the problem. First layer looked perfect so I didn’t consider manual bed leveling, but that’s a great resource to be aware of down the road if things start shifting! What ended up helping me was turning off all cooling.
Hey @inferno12, that makerworld number looks to be pointing to a hueforge print. While trying to solve my problem, I did stumble across this reddit comment dealing specifically with hueforge prints which ultimately says to slow down in certain sections.
For me, I didn’t want to slow down because I use the same settings on an Ender 3V2 that I modified to run Klipper, so I know it’s possible. After changing many variables, I realized that turning off all cooling in the long stretches solved it. So you could experiment with how much cooling you have. Also keep in mind that at these fast print speeds, you have less time to heat up the plastic, so the hotend should be 220+ to increase your heat flux. There’s a volumetric tower test which shows how much plastic you can push out physically.
lithophane_shared.3mf (839.3 KB)
Hey @krellboy I attached the 3mf here, I’d be curious if others can replicate the issue too. It should load with a filament profile titled “Overture PLA White Flow Litho” and print profile “0.1mm Lithophane @BBL X1C” for a P1S 0.4 with a Smooth High Temp Plate. And this is the filament I used.
Nothing modified regarding printer as I had it for only a few days at the time of posting. Filament was fed via AMS. Let me know if you get around to testing it!
@Proximity I just ordered it now, unfortunately that exact white wasn’t available for fast shipping. There was a “cold white” which I also ordered and will be here tomorrow, hopefully that isn’t too different. I have a theory that this might be caused by the nozzle physically bending a small amount and oscillating/skipping slightly, so if I can repro it I’ll hook a nozzle cam up also and try to capture it. I’ll try it on one of my P1’s, but if it repros I’ll run the same on an X1 and A1. I’ll let you know, the interaction with the cooling fan is intriguing, hope I can repro it.
Thanks for letting me know about the AMS, I would have suggested you try a direct feed, but also wouldn’t have expected that to make a difference.