The most affective change I’ve made is I contacted to the seller of the filament and he suggested me to use “Generic PLA settings”. I was using bambu pla settings.
Between those, there are two differences, volumetric speed goes down significantly and also density change by 0.02 .
Now I’m trying another big print with even lower volumetric speed (which is 10 instead of 12).
The print still ongoing and I’m at work but from the camera, that looks slightly better. Not perfect because there a huge visible layer line, I’ll look closer when I get to home.
It may be worth checking if a piece of very thin paper can be slid underneath the edges of the model to check if it is lifting. The significant layer line is typical when it lifts, even a tiny amount.
Since this is PLA, monitor the chamber temperature, and if it is over 35C then open the door and remove the top glass.
I’ll check my plate as you said, I also have a spare plate which happens on both of them but worth to give it a shot.
I mostly wipe clean it with alcohol on daily basis.
I’m printing my front door open and top glass has a riser but since it is p1s, I can’t monitor chamber temp. I bought a temp device but it didn’t fit inside ahahah
Did you ever got rid of the pesky bad layer print in the middle of the object?
I consistently get a layer on high objects somewhere between 200-250 layer, with all different PLAs, from Bambu, and generic ones.
Anyone haas a solution or cause, please help.
I’m going to butt in here into someone else’s business and give props to @Olias for his A+ attempt to help. Since Bambu support is, well, … , I’ve relied on this forum to help me through some challenges. If anyone out there is hesitant to purchase a Bambu printer due to the lack of support, I would say don’t worry about it so long as this forum is here (and the fact that Bambu ships parts very quickly). There’s obviously some pros here that probably can run circles around Bambu support staff anyway.
While I 100% agree with this it should be said that Support should be really used for cases where a printer has a warranty issue. They aren’t there to help you learn how to slice a print or troubleshoot a print issue. There is an entire internet of knowledge about how to do this. It just takes some time, the ability to search and the willingness to learn. This is how the pro’s here got to where they are.
Amen to that brother!!! I’ll admit that one of my pet peeves is encountering luddites who expect a technical product to just power up and effortlessly transmit what’s in their brain. Sure, that might work for a toaster, but when you end up with burnt toast, one needs to understand why if you want to fix it. Unfortunately, too many people act as though they shouldn’t have to be bother to think. While that might be true for certain technologies, like turning on a faucet for running water, it’s clear that when it comes to bleeding-edge tech like FDM, we’re not quite there yet.
I’ve run into this philosophy countless times in my career and it is annoying. One notable case was when I was called in to consult on a technical failure. The owner of this advertising company couldn’t understand why her computer displays were failing when used inside of a sealed enclosure in the hot sun on the sidewalk. She was a rich kid who was using her family’s money to fund the project and couldn’t understand why her checkbook couldn’t solve the problem.
Since then I’ve managed to learn that this problem has a lot of reason.
I think mine was just out of the factory, belts were not at the right position.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izdBZ9IQfqI I’ve encountered this video and tried only the second part of it which is correcting the belts’ moving position that can be observed behind of the printer.
@Olias Put unbeliavable effort to my problem, thanks a lot for that. Also He managed to perfectly find my spesific problem 23 days ago but there was one problem which is the bambulab wiki. He forwarded me to wiki in his post but since Wiki contains way too poor information about idler and pullies.
I’ve tried maybe over 20 times on what wiki says but no solution then I moved on to other problems. (I shouldn’t have).
Now my prints are much better. I’ll keep observing from now and I’ll be updating this post.
I couldn’t help it and tried to replace this issues in order to figure out possible causes and solutions…
Won’t bother you much with the path taken and will try to sum up my finding in regards to the causes of those ‘failures’, lines and surface changes.
Hopefully some of this will help to hone in on the problem(s) giving you a headache…
State of the filament…
I tried some very old PLA that came as a sample, only a temp range of 160-210 Celsius on the bag LOL
Apart from the usual bubbling issues caused by not being dried:
The layers were rather inconsistent…
Turned out the sample was far from dimensionally accurate.
Then I tried some old roll that was stored in a sealed bag with silica gel.
Certainly dry enough…
Maybe too dry or too old as it kept breaking along the way, had to use the external spool holder.
The layers however were quite consistent and smooth.
I however assume that the filament itself is not your issue.
Print temp in relation to print speed…
Here I found the most issues.
Especially if the slowing down features are enabled.
I can basically match the layer issues to the preview window.
The flow, speed or overall layer time makes changes during those layers that stand out for all the wrong reasons.
Printing the lot with consistent speed eliminated most of the problems but of course this down not work for all prints.
I also noticed that there is rather severe difference between filaments.
That most require a different print temp for ideal outcomes is one thing.
But inside the melting chamber and going through the nozzle the changes are even worse.
For example: I had one filament that would only produce the right shine on the surface at a rather high temp.
But in areas were the printer slowed down to provide enough cooling time the surface was basically ruined as the filament got cooked before coming out.
Also resulted in those slow areas being quite brittle.
Overall layer time…
No clue why but I only noticed this problem during testing and now it haunts me.
Let’s say I print a box which is open to the top.
Then those bottom layers take far more time than the remaining walls.
This is more prominent low in the print and less once you are a few cm up.
I confirmed the issue with my little Flir cam.
The higher parts of the model have a much lower temperature than what is over the build plate.
I found two ways to compensate:
A: making sure to have the print temp on the low side of things.
B: printer the outer wall first.
Sadly option B is often far from ideal for complex models.
Wall widths…
I know, sounds silly but:
The filament needs to be squished down in order to stick.
Printing in vase mode is easy and easy to tune…
Printing 4 or more wall loops to get a really strong model however can be a total pain…
You would ASSUME that if the vase mode produces the correct wall width that everything else has to be fine too…
Wrong
I checked with walls from 2 to 6, with and without gap infill (as it shows in the preview).
If you add the various widths for the loops of a wall and the measured width is different…
Sadly it means playing with the values and print order until things get close enough…
May I suggest that you pick a model you know makes problems and try to print it like this?
Disable the slowing down features.
Print with just two wall loops.
Use a 10% LIGHTNING infill.
Try not to use a huge print please…
Do those errors and imperfections show up if printed like this?
If NOT than you at least know the hardware is ok.
If far less prominent it means your setting are not optimal.
If MORE I could only assume that something is not right with your extruder and filament transportation, which is quite unlikely.
