Coming from the Ender 3 world, I’ve never seen this kind of spaghetti dinner. I’m using my first roll of Voxel PLA and the manufacturer recommended BL PLA Tough settings. This has happened about six out of the last ten prints. Heat settings are 220/55. I just now turned the bed up to 60. But actually I don’t have a clue. This time, I’m going to watch the entire print to see if I can figure what happens and when. I’ll appreciate any ideas you may have as to what causes this chain-like mess.
I’ve never had a problem with Voxel on my A1 Mini. I print it at 215* & 60*.
Since your showing only the stringing & not a model on the bed, I’d say it’s an adhesion issue…clean your bed.
Without a part failure pic, I’d guess that a (1st?) layer separation happened with no spaghetti detection.
On the Bambu’s, you do need to clean the bed regularly with water and dishwashing liquid. Don’t bother with IPA.
Furthermore, some parts benefit from things like non-crossing paths for infills (gyroid, honeycomb,…) and surfaces (concentric, monotonic,…). But it does not affect PLA nearly as much as PETG.
Hope this helps,
Eno
2 Likes
I don’t need to add anything to this point, I concur.
My bits
The P1S doesn’t have spaghetti detection, that is one of the X series benefits.
It looks like your model came off the bed and started to spin, if so, that might be the reason for your weird spaghetti.
If the model is spinning on the plate whilst the printer continues to print, each time the nozzle contacts the rotating model, it will cause a build-up of material before it loses friction of the model and the process starts again.
A future Christmas contest would benefit from your snowflake crossed with snow effect.
1 Like
Unfortunately, that is the model :-). I left it unattended. Yeah, I didn’t mean to suggest it was the Voxel, just wanted to give all the info. I suspect you’re right about the build plate. Thanks
Well, IPA is what I’ve been using. I’ll try the soap. I think I understand you to be recommending gyroid or honeycomb as opposed to the default infill. But I don’t understand what I need to do differently regarding “concentric, monotonic…”. Can you elaborate on that please. Thank you
Your explanation makes sense to me.
I had no idea I had spaghetti detection. How can I check to see if it’s turned on. I sure didn’t get notified on my phone. And my phone does get notified when I have a tangle or run out of filament.
I don’t think you spotted this part of my previous message.
2 Likes
Of course. In Bambu Studio, within the strength tab, you have a large number of settings (you may want to toggle the “Advanced” slider just above the tabs).
Besides selecting an infill pattern, you can also select patterns for surface layers (top, bottom, intermediate solid infills the slicer adds to ensure thicknesses, etc.). Some of these are better at avoiding the “speed bumps” caused by crossing paths than others. There are illustrations with each of these. Avoid the ones that have a lot of crossing lines and go for “concentric” or “monotonic”.
Having come from a Tarantula, “speed bumps” were never an issue. But these printers are a wee bit faster 
Sorry and thanks to @MalcTheOracle re the spaghetti detection. I have an X1, not a P1 and was not certain if the P1 has it. The lack of it on the P1 explains why the printer did not stop (but that can also happen on the X1 if the dish being served is hidden behind the model 
).
Whoops. Read it just a little too fast.
Great info. I’ll check into all that.
1 Like
Okay, I could trial and error all of this, but it sure would be helpful to get some recommendations if you’re not using defaults. I’m printing a big project and I’d love to get it right the first time if possible. I would love to know your (any of you) recommendations for the following ‘strength’ settings using PLA:
Top surface pattern:
Bottom surface pattern:
Internal solid infill pattern:
Sparse infill pattern:
I realize there are many factors, and what works for you might not work for me. Just let me know what some of you would recommend. Thanks
Depending on the complexity of the model (bed contact area, overhangs, bridges, etc.), that may be a bit ambitious.
However, you can do test prints of tricky geometries by, lowering the model below the build plate in the slicer so that only tricky areas show and/or eliminate easy parts by right clicking on the model and adding negative primitive parts. It is pretty intuitive.
Once you are confident that your print has a good chance of success, you should ensure that your bed is clean and you’ll get a good bond. In rare cases, you may want to use liquid glue even on the textured plate for very small contact area prints or water diluted PVA stick glue for PETG to act as a release agent.
Having selected a layer height, you may want to give scarf seam a try in “Quality”. It is experimental, but it really did improve part quality for me.
On the Strength tab, I have had good success with these
Many prefer Gyroid over Honeycomb, but I just happen to prefer the honeycomb
On the speed tab, I do not usually change anything for PLA (different story for everything else).
Depending on your model, you may need supports. There are a lot of important (and some cool) choices to be made if that is the case.
On the Others tab, and depending on your model, there’s the Brim settings. I try to avoid them, but my current print needs them (and to be well connected to the model) due to the models high aspect ratio and low bed contact area.
Another item you should look at is the “Adaptive Layer height” marked in the pic at the top.
This applies a large layer height for straight sections and a lower layer height for angled walls. That can improve surfaces at the expense of print time and vice versa.
The color bar on the right, which appears after pressing “Adaptive” can be further fine tuned by right/left clicking on a particular layer. Left reduces layer height (green), right increases layer height (red).
In some extremely rare cases, you can get local wapring/curling during the print which would result in the kind of failure you have seen earlier. In fact my current print experienced this first time round. It looks like trading 20% part fan speed for 10% Aux fan speed solved this (in combination with adaptive layers which has a similar effect). I am not sure if your P1(P? S?) does have an AUX fan, but you should be able to get a similar effect by using the third wheel to turn for curling which is to reduce speeds (for PLA by 10-20% are likely sufficient) in the speed tab. But for PLA, that is rarely neccessary.
I hope this helps with your print. Do not hesitate to post some pics/screenshots for specific pre-print thoughts, reporting success or getting better advice from the community in case of further issues. 
Best wishes,
Eno
1 Like
Wow, what a boatload of great advice! Thank you. And the adaptive is timely advice as I have just discovered a setting that really slows things down and it will be fantastic to know that I can dial in that setting after 90% of the model has printed at standard speed. Attached are some pictures showing a catastrophic print that lead me to believe that such an angle was just not possible by 3D printing. I would have to change the design. With no hope that any setting could significantly make a difference, I decided to give it a whirl anyhow.
The model on the right was done with 0.20 Standard, terrible. The one in the middle, was done with 0.16 High Quality. The one on the left has a notch to let me know it’s the one with a 1mm fillet. I still can’t believe it! I’m really enjoying my new BL printers!
I’ve been using Split Body in Fusion to cut my test prints, but your advice to do the same thing in the slicer will be much more convenient.
(This is part of the K-Cup dispenser I’m fine tuning for MakersWorld.)
That is actually a really good illustration of curling and drooping on overhangs with the 0.2mm layer height. Originally, the “slow down for overhang” setting in conjunction with fan settings was supposed to take care of that. But with fan speed control in the GCode, it did not really work out nicely for me due to the fan latency in spinning up. While it may be a simple feature in the slicer, using the silent, sport or insane modes would really mess that up.
I am getting much better results by limiting heat input through local layer heigth.
In the future, you may also want to expirement with modifiers in the slicer as well as with support structures (especially using PETG interfaces for PLA and vice versa).
But first: Happy printing 
1 Like
I only use IPA and have not had a fail with regular cleaning of the plate.
You’re obviously an advanced practitioner. You’re so far advanced that I don’t even know what you’re talking about half the time. I might eventually catch up over time, but at 78, there’s not a lot of it left. So here’s what I propose: Produce the optimal seam on a PLA tube with 56.1 and 51.7 diameters. In my case, it’s 184mm tall. But a much shorter one could prove the concept. I ask you this not of laziness, but expediency. Of course, I would ask you to share the settings. Are you game? 
I do not think I’ll ever consider myself advanced with 3D printing as there’s just so much to it. But I do graciously accept the compliment of sounding like I know what I am talking about
Give it 3-6 months. The key is not to be afraid to get things wrong
I was about to enter my 57cm model of a Carbon Nanotube Structure that came of the printer earlier today (3 pieces). The trouble is, I can’t see the seams 
I was cheating though. The diameters are only 3mm.
What I can offer are some molecule kit balls (diameter 23mm) that just finished. The seams are definetily good enough for my use case
I did have to zoom in quite a bit so the pic’s overdramatize pretty much everything
And I’d be remiss not to share them. Just scarf seam under Quality enabled. Nothing fancy.
2 Likes
Addendum:
Sorry, I overlooked this. It is a very thin wall for such a tall object. It may however be a candidate for a vase object print. I have not printed those myself but…spiral vases do not have a seam.
For thin objects, you may also want to ensure that line thickness is the same as wall thickness. And ideally slightly above the nozzle diameter.
For thinner walls, you’ll need to use “Arachne”
Many have good success with that but I have not had much luck with it myself.
2 Likes
Well, I’ve actually been printing for some years, but it was all on Ender 3s and I never even tweaked any settings because I didn’t know what any of it was. Furthermore, the quality was always quite good. It’s the Bambu Lab ecosystem that’s new to me and I’ve really been encouraged to tinker with the settings because I’m only now realizing the value of doing so.
The nanotube structure is wild! I’d like to see a picture of it taken in a room where I can see the scale of it.
Molecular kit balls huh? Are you a chemist or a chemistry teacher? Very cool.
1 Like