Hi All,
Following a series of failed PLA and PETG prints and having read some very useful replies, can someone advise what the correct internal temperature should be in a P1S for printing in PLA and PETG please?
Many thanks
Daz
Chamber temps are optional but I can tell you from experience, it often comes down to the size and density of the model that will influence the contraction of filament. So a benchy which has relatively small mass and small countact area with the build plate will react very differently from let’s say a PETG model that is 200x200x50mm and has greater than 25% infill. The reason for this is that the more mass you have the greater the thermal expansion and as a result the greate the contraction. This can cause lifting of the model at the corners which can be mitigated by either brims, speed reduction(allow the filament to cool between nozzle passes), part fan and lastly, chamber temp. But all of these are a YMMV situation and there is no “set” value that works in every situation.
| Filament | Nozzle Temp (°C) | Bed Temp (°C) | Chamber Temp (°C) |
|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | 190–220 | 50–60 | 25–40 (optional) |
| PETG | 230–250 | 70–90 | 30–60 (optional) |
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I tried to print PETG for the first time and everything come out pretty terrible. Any ideas what can be going wrong?
In all honesty… there’s not much you can do to change the temps besides opening or closing the door. However the ranges Olias posted look pretty good. I would ask what are the types of failures you are running into to really determine what the problem(s) are.
Again, same thing. What types of problems are you seeing? The reasons for a failure are very wide ranging.
These numbers are quite in the ballpark. But sometime there would be some odd bunch of un-named brand that must be printed differently.
I’ve printed over 25 rolls of PETG chinese brand XVICO which I have to pump nozzle temperature to 265°C and lower the print speed under 120mm/s. Lower temp or faster than that would result in really bad layer adhesion. Even at the speed of 100mm/s vs 120mm/s, I can tell by the shinier surface very clearly. FYI, the shinier surface the better adhesion for PETG.
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Add ‘G29.1 Z0.03’ to the end of your machine start code. PETG can’t be smeared, it has to be kinda plopped/laid down. If the nozzle is too close it picks up the wisps, gathers around the nozzle, causes failures.
This will help too.
Using an enclosure (air-tight, the X1C/etc is too leaky) will open up a far greater degree of success versus variance of internal temp… Also no air movement, so turn off aux/part/chamber for first 4 layers, initial layer is 10 degrees lower than other layers, add ‘G29.1 Z0.03’ to the end of your machine start code for PETG; it has to be laid/plopped down as it is too sticky to be smeared…
And if you didn’t see my previous post, I designed a wiper specifically for PETG, works well for everything else and I haven’t had to touch it in hundreds of hours…