Printing this way always work because you support the next layer by the layer below. The other way, the next layer is partially printed in the air (it’s called overhang) and need to be applied at low speed and cooled by the fan on the head so that it cools before it starts sagging. The lower the angle (towards the horizontal) the more difficult it becomes that why the beginning of your vase despites having an angle is steep enough it does not cause concern. If you’re OK with the supports and the cost of the wasted filament, the way you had it oriented now ensure the best result.
Keep trying the other way to get the feel of it because you will encounter models in the future that you will not be able to reorient easily.
To reduce z, in your slicer, select the part and click on the move icon (the 4 arrow cross) and change “z”. The initial value is the mid-height of your model, start with “0” and from there input negative values until you’re satisfied with what is left to be printed so that if you try to test different speed and temperature, you don’t waste too much filament. The only drawback is that you wont have a bottom surface but only the walls so watch the print, if you don’t have a good adhesion, it will release from the plate (so stop the print immediately) or you will end up with a plate of spaghetti
PETG… Droops on overhangs, shrinks when cooling, binds like glue…
But again, you probably want to go slower with PETG. And check your layer height: More material/time => More energy in => Worse cool down effects => Worse overhangs => Print failure
Eno, I was not suggesting changing the support layer height but simply moving most of the model below the plate so that he can almost directly print the cone for testing to avoid wasting filament (and a lot of time).
I am sorry. It seems that instead of helping you to resolve the issues with your print we have added a completely new and even more serious problem: An overload of good advice.
Apologies for that.
The myriad of settings, machine behaviour, material specifics and geometry specific cases can be very confusing at first. Especially with a material like PETG which is a bit of a diva.
I’ll try to prepare a little walkthrough once the kiddies are in bed… Dinner now…
For now, there are two pre-conditions that always apply for every troubleshooting though: Dry your material (especially if fresh and new from the bag) and clean your build plate with water and dish washing liquid.
you have been very helpful. And I appreciate the assistance. I just find this very confusing. Especially since the half height worked and full did not.
I am printing the half again with the golden PETG to see if that might be the issue. Will let all know.
I think I found the issue of the gold print. I forgot to change the profile when I changed the filament. I am printing it now. ARGH, as we used to say in the Army, operator head space and timing
Again thanks for all you assistance. I will let you know if it does NOT work.
One thing, I noticed you used 0.16mm. I normally use 0.20, is there any reason I can not?
PETG is a diva. Do not hesitate to let us know if things do not work as well as desired.
None at all. A finer layer height means longer print time but better resolution and (especially with PETG) fewer defects. You can also have a look at adaptive layer height. A really powerfull helper in my experience. You can left and right click in the green-red bar on the right to make adjustments at the height you want. Red = Coarse layer = Faster print = More heat input = More risk, Green = Fine layer = Slower print => Less heat input = Less risk.
Thanks again, and I had always wondered where you change the support material. And thanks for the explanation on adaptive that was clear, unlike a lot I have read on it.
IMO, its a cooling issue. However, these issues get complicated when trying to fix. As a stop gap, I’m with Eno above, in using the variable layer height feature in the slicer. The idea is to use the minimum layer height on the 45 degree overhang. Overhangs are always printed better with thin layer heights, so using the variable layer height tool may get all the way there without having to decode the various cooling settings that are creating the problem.
