Does anyone know what causes this? I am using PETG default setting. Except for this the entire print is perfect.
Thanks.
John
Note - this was bad advice it turns out. OP photographed in a different orientation from how it was printed so this doesn’t apply…
Looking at the base it appears there was a build plate adhesion issue that let the bottom of the print lift under the area with the defect.
If you haven’t cleaned the build plate in a while, dish soap and warm water can help.
Depending on the plate and material, glue or some such might help. Plate temperature changes may also help. Not familiar with printing PETG so I can’t give a recipe, but see the recommendations for plate material, if glue helps, and temperature if you haven’t already.
And brim can also help that though needs to be removed so a little more rework when done.
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looks like buidl plate is dirty and plastic is pealing off in that are. wipe it with alcohol. Also make sure its flat. who knows maybe you have a hole there.
Just wondering, are you sure that the material that you are printing is PETG or PETG support. Some of the issues you are having, occur when printing support material.
I don’t think the part is warped, what we see in the picture is due to the curvature of the table. Which direction are you printing this part? Like we see with the cone at the bottom or the other way around and the cone at the top of the part? If it’s the later, I experienced the same with bambu PLA with their own profile, I selected generic PLA instead which has a lower volumetric speed in its profile which in turn reduce the overall speed at which it prints and solved that exact same issue/
Actually this is upside down. You are seeing the top not the bottom. Thus the confusion.
You need to provide far more information.
The “confusion” you mentioned is caused by taking a photo of the model upside in relation to how it printed and not telling anyone.
Everyone is clearly trying to assist you diagnose the problem you have described, or not in this case.
Provide more details about how you printed it, were there any supports, is this printed on a P-series printer as the category suggests or a different printer.
What settings have you changed, has your bed been cleaned very recently. Where in relation to the damage is the front of the printer?
Lots more info.
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Interesting. I will try that.
I did not realize that would be significant. Now I do. The sett in by were default. I used Bambi PETG profile.
The upside-down information was really important as it highlights the classic Bambu PETG default setting issues. They are quite well documented in the forum. For example here: [SOLVED] PETG problem on large support surface
The bad side was not by any chance facing the fan?
The easy fix is to reduce speed and/or adaptive layer height. There’s also a bit of tweaking of the cooling fans that you could do. The easiest approach in setting up is to use the Generic PETG settings instead of the Bambu PETG settings.
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I did two prints one with Bambu PETG profile and one with generic PETG.
Here are results. No difference. Thus the issue is NOT the filament profile.
This is Bambu profile
This is generic
From your photo, we have more important information we asked for previously.
- Your model faces the front of the printer.
Are you printing with the door and lid closed? If not, try this as PETG requires it.
Questions we still do not have answers for so we may help you.
- Is your printer print a P series?
- If so, which one?
- If not, which do you have?
- Have you used any supports?
- If so, what material did you use for support, PETG or something else?
- Have you tried the same print with PLA? (keep the door or lid open for that)
- Is the speed different for the top portion?
- Have you changed hot-end temps for any portion of the height?
- Have you changed bed temps for any portion of the print?
I am not asking you to do any of these, I am asking for the information on what you have already done.
Did you reduce the speeds and/or use a lower layer height for the overhang?
I have only once printed PETG so far on my A1 mini - It went well - nozzle temp was 245 bed temp 75 - build plate cleaned with washing up liquid and warm water then rinsed thouroughly and wiped with 99% IPA - before the print - did auto level and flow calibration at the start of the print.
There is a difference. It’s better so the max volumetric speed of the Generic PETG profile has helped but not enough. You should reduce it more, try silent speed in bambu studio (50%) just for testing which is quicker than adjusting the speed on overhangs assuming studio recognizes the cone as an overhang… Also for testing, adjust position of your model with a smaller z so that most of it will be embedded below the plate resulting in printing just part of the cylinder and your cone to save on filament for testing.
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The door is closed
-
Is your printer print a P series?
-
If so, which one? P1S
-
Have you used any supports? Yes Same.
-
If so, what material did you use for support, PETG or something else? PETG
-
Have you tried the same print with PLA? NO
(keep the door or lid open for that)
7. Is the speed different for the top portion? Defaults
8. Have you changed hot-end temps for any portion of the height? No
9. Have you changed bed temps for any portion of the print? No
I changed neither all default setting.
I think @philch hit the nail on the head. It looks to me like you’re running out of filament towards the end of the wall loop. Or as it’s also known as Under Extrusion. Lowering the speed should help.
I have an X1C, but since both have an enclosure, things should be reasonably similar. I think the P1S also has the AUX-fan? That combination of Part- and Aux-fan can do some strange things with PETG which is a bit tricky to tune in. I myself have to say, that I did not succeed fully with that.
However, for overhang problems with PETG, slowing down and/or reducing local layer heigth by adaptive layers enabled me to get good, complicated prints. For island prints, I did have to use a mix of hand drawn stability supports and dissimilar material interface supports (BVOH at the time but I’d go for PLA nowadays).
Here are some setting changes that worked for me:
No guarantuees though! There have been some changes to the basic profiles since then. But it did enable me to use PETG to turn this:
into this:
After a lot (!) of failed attempts. Learned that it is much quicker to get a good result when going slow. I’d probably go even slower if I wanted to do it again…
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I will try that. But I tried printing upside down with support on inside.
It came out perfect on outside and except for the tip inside rim it was perfect
Not sure why any ideas?
Also you said to adjust the z height. How is that done? Also how much. I am still fairly new.
These photos are front and back.
