I’m not asking how to fix warping - I’ve seen the advice (warmer plate, turn off aux fan, etc etc) and I can work around the problem, but what I’ld really like to understand is what may have changed in my P1S to cause warping to start happening? My filament is dry and my plate is cleaned regularly with warm soapy water. I’ve been printing without warping for the 9 months I’ve had the machine. What sort of things could have changed that would cause warping to start? It is happening at the left edge when the plate is full and the object near the edge is fairly wide. No other symptoms, no change in the sound of the machine working. Indoor humidity and temperature haven’t changed significantly, and the AMS humidity remains at a healthy 10%.
There could be many reasons to have that kind of issue…but one thing you did not mention is bed leveling, which made me suspect that either you don’t do the auto bed leveling before every print and or you did not do the the whole machine calibration for long time (the machine shakes alot and metal expand and contracts that why you need to do the full machine calibration every once in a while).
other thing comes to mind is when was the last time you lubed the Z axis lead screws and rods and tightened the belts, you don’t need to wait for the machine to tell you it’s time to clean and lubricate the rods, depends on the conditions you might have to do clean ups before time.
another thing also comes to mind, cold draft the plate heater has to keep compensating if the machine in a very cold room, which causing the bed to have rapid cool down and heat up, that makes the build plate to move up and down while printing.
troubleshoot with these point, and i hope these helps out, if non solved your concern, let me know so we can dive deeper into troubleshooting.
Thanks. Some of those points I’m good with already, but not all:
- auto bed levelling: yes, every print
- whole machine calibration: only when I set it up initially (sits on concrete, doesn’t shake noticably)
- lube & tighten: shamefully I haven’t done so yet; until this week every print had been perfect and I tend to be of the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” school, having seen disasters in the past from Preventive Maintenances that caused more problems than they prevented! (in another context, not talking about this printer)
- cold draft: no, very temperate room, connected to an air-conditioned area but not in the airflow of the air conditioner draft. Room temperature is pretty stable around 20C.
I’m not suspicious of environmental factors but I can easily believe that insufficient PMs could be at the root of this, although I would have expected things to get worse slowly and incrementally, not all at once as what happened with three consecutive prints until I stopped trying to fill the plate and printed the larger items in the center of the plate on their own.
Thanks for the reply and advice.
having the machine on concrete is wonderful, but you still have to re run the full machine calibration, but do that after the lubing and tightening.
didn’t the maintenance message appear on your machine? i mean 9 months is way overdue the lubrication date, preventive maintenance is important for bambu machines the accuracy in these machines requires the trouble to keep the same level of perfection as if it is still fresh out of the box.
i understand its a bothering process, but start with the cleaning, lubrication, calibration processes, then check again if the object left up on that same corner, in this way you can eliminate the unmaintained machine issue, then we can go further with other probable causes, and while at it flip the the textured plate on the other side to add it to the elemenitation steps.
Definitely do this soon
I do a recalibrate any time 1) change position of the machine on the table/workbench 2) change nozzle and 3) at the end of every time the machine barks at me to do other maintenance things
If you put a stack of books on the table next to your printer, it will likely benefit from autocalibrate motor compensation, that’s how much you should love running it
Lots of good info and this thread and I don’t want to hijack but had a few follow-up questions that might help the OP as well:
While I’ve lubed my machine and performed other maintenance I’ve never had the printer “bark at me” to perform maintenance and haven’t done anything to indicate it’s been performed, including a full calibration that I only did when new. It’s about 18 months old and a bit under 2000 hours so I wonder what triggers the reminder, perhaps it’s at some amount of print hours?
Also I made a spreadsheet of P1S maintenance tasks I found on a Bambu wiki some time ago so I could keep track of when I performed them last. But that didn’t mention belt tensioning or the full calibration so I’m wondering what else I might be missing, is there a comprehesive list of regular maintenance tasks for the P1S somewhere?
MoeStone:
didn’t the maintenance message appear on your machine? i mean 9 months is way overdue the lubrication date, preventive maintenance is important for bambu machines the accuracy in these machines
I don’t use the front panel at all, I bought a $50 used portable PC, which lets you fold the keyboard 180 degrees behind its 7in touch screen, that I rest on top of the unit to use as a big display that permanently runs Bambu Studio. I thought I could do everything from there - I didn’t even know until your post that the front panel LCD popped up messages!
Bullocks:
any time 1) change position of the machine on the table/workbench
I set it up on the living room floor (carpet on concrete slab) since I unpacked it last Christmas day and haven’t moved it since! Haven’t changed the nozzle (it has never blocked and the prints haven’t had any indication of problems until this curling issue started), and as we discovered today I’ve not been looking at the LCD display so if there were any maintenance reminders, I didn’t see them.
If I’ve been negligent with maintenance it’s not through lack of realising that maintenance is needed at some point, it was only because the machine has been working so smoothly and my perception (in hindsight, probably wrong) that I hadn’t used it heavily enough yet for a PM to be needed already! I just now checked the total print time - 273 hours. I was at the point where I had started reading up on the PM steps and was going to do one “Real Soon Now” as Jerry Pournelle used to say, but this happened before I got there. Oh well, now I know better…
I just remembered I never came back to report progress… so I did the recalibration, all the maintenance steps, even replaced the carbon filter though I don’t think it was needed … nothing seemed to help, until I ordered and installed a new build plate. I had been cleaning the original (properly, with Dawn dish soap) but something about the plate had been causing these adhesion issues. Now I can print large objects that fill the plate with no issues. Worth the $18.
Just came across this. Thanks for sharing feedback.
After 50 hours printing I washed the PEI Plate with a local dish wash soap. Not needed because I keep my fingers away from the plate, but I just wanted to try out. After washing the adhesion was gone. Cleaning with IPA slightly improved adhesion. Was thinking about buying another PEI plate. But first I tried another brand dish washer soap. Adhesion improved. Washed again, rubbed with IPA two times. And now adhesion is back to normal.
Conclusion: My first dish wash soap ruined adhesion.
I will now only use my new brand soap when really needed. IPA seems enough for now. And keep the fingers away from the build plate, and PC monitor screens 
Thank you. In hindsight it is possible that we had switched soap brands and I didn’t notice, because rather than use dish washer soap directly from the original large bottle, we routinely transfer it to a foaming soap dispenser and dilute it with water to use as a foam, which helps avoid using too much soap and actually works better anyway. So if it had been replaced by a different brand I might not have noticed!