I’ve done quite a bit of research and have tried a lot or most of the suggestions. I was able to fix some of the issues but two main problems still remain. Any advice would be appreciated.
The two main issues I’m having atm is layer adhesion, and ugly seams. I have no problem ASA sticking to the plate, it is just with itself. You can see the sphere (30 degree support) stuck better to HIPS support interface. Not just support areas but other regular layers have a hard time sticking to each other and just start splitting.
Many times in the past long before BBL existed, I once had a filament that simply wouldn’t no matter what settings I tried,
I’m the kind of person that when I give up on something having tried everything I know move on and with the said filament I binned it, bought a different brand and what do you know I printed without any more waste of my life.
Your screen shot is spot on for ASA, is your cooling turned off?
My flow ratio is 0.9025
Heat 260C
Part Cooling Off but when printing something that has a very thin point, I manually turn the cooling on to 10% on and a Max 30% the user screen.
Here’s a spinner I printed with un unknown ABS Brand which was at least 5 years old and at the same settings as ASA…
I noticed he’s changed some cooling options, but even then that filament could need a slight bump.
I’ve only printed with BL ASA and not had that problem. If he’s printing too cool he could be experiencing partial clogs, causing some of those defects. Key word “could”.
If it seems to be a temp issue- it’s worth checking/changing the hotend. Could be an issue with the nozzle thermistor? Setting at 270c might not be 270c if that’s not reading correctly.
Not to sound confrontational but if I had a dollar for every time someone said they performed calibration… The question is; Did you use the Bambu Calibration tools or the Orca calibration tools? If you used Bambu, you wasted your time. Those tools are blunt instruments that give a false sense of “Having done something”.
Did you perform the calibration using the Orca Slicer baked-in calibration utilities?
The reason I stress this is because from what I’m seeing in your photos, I would first be chasing fine-tuning the existing calibration before randomly trying to change print profile parameters. There have been too many times for me to count where I had–what I thought–was a perfectly calibrated filament profile only to find out that with a certain model, I had to tweak that profile for that specific print. It doesn’t happen too often but it does happen.
Here as an example. I see a couple of possible causes. The first of which is incorrect flow rate. Temperature alone would not cause this. This is classic indicator of filament that is too cool to flow correctly.
You may also try arachne get the filament to squeeze closer into the crannies but I would expect that to be a bandaid that will obsure the greater issues.
One thing you can try to prove or disprove this theory if you don’t want to go through the fill Orca Calibration suite(can take up to two hours to do completely), simply use the quiet mode feature in the device screen and run that section of the model and see if it produces any difference. If it improves or makes any change, then you know that filament flow is one cause.
One other possible test you can run is a temp tower and inspect the results for the optimal temp. It’s important to note that with some filaments like PETG, you likely will not find that there is a single temp that will produce perfect, corners, overhangs and curves but likely one temp that produces perfect corners while another temp produces better overhangs and a third that may produce less stringing. Elegoo rapid PETG and Bambu PETG HF tend to be better at this over multiple ranges but no one filament is immune to this variation.
Hope this is not the case since it’s a new printer. I’ll try some other suggestions and if they don’t work check this out too. Or is there an easy way to check this without having to swap it out?
My setting is based off of the BL ASA setting. I don’t recall touching the cooling setting.
Tried the temp tower and it printed quite nicely. Also not that much difference from 240-280C. I did get some holes on the walls though, mostly on the 270C and 280C walls.
I’m invested in this, keep us posted! I print with ASA a little bit and plan on starting to with my P1S, currently I use prusament which is flawless (idk what they do to it lol), but it’s too freaking expensive so looking for another brand. These kinds of posts make me a bit worried of wasting my money, so some tips are appreciated
