Relatively new to 3D printing and I am trying to print a small box that is open at one end in my P1S out of PLA, but I get a lot of warping at one end. I’m not sure how to solve for this and would appreciate any suggestions. Settings etc here:
Something is not right. Based on your aspect ratio, there should be no reason why you wouldn’t set it flat. In fact, unless there is an overriding reason why you would print it that way such as the strength of the layer lines, there really is no justification for that orientation and only peril.
However, if you still want to print it that way, you have to enable supports. If you’re new to 3D printing seek out the tutorials on Bambu’s Wiki first.
I just sliced the 3MF that you uploaded. I see that you already enabled supports which will help. However, you’ll want to raise that in the short edge to mitigate warping. Here’s what that looks like.
OK. It’s OK to be new, everyone has to learn. But the best advice I can give you is to slow down. You’re trying too many things at once. Why do I say that? Because you printed 173g model before you had the bugs worked out.
If your print doesn’t work. Don’t just reprint he the whole model. that’s just a huge waste of filament and based on what I see, that’s about six hours of your life and $4 worth of filament that I’m sure you would have liked to have back.
Upon failing to print a large model, create a section of model that reproduces the error. In this case, using the cut tool to chop off the end would do just fine.
Make sure your build plate has been properly cleaned. Your print failure is due to the model coming loose from the build plate. A contaminated plate or possibly too low a plate temp can contribute.
Once you’ve done that, then you can slice and try to experiment. BTW: I do not recommend tree supports for geometric objects, they are better suited for organic objects such as figurines, tabletop game pieces or CosPlay masks.
Clean your plate with dish soap. Dawn soap in the US and Fairy Liquid in the EU/UK. They both are Proctor & Gamble products with the same formula. Spread the soap with your fingers on the plate and use ultra hot high force water from your sync to blast off the soap. It will be oblivious when the soap is washed away. Do this twice.
Add a Brim to your model.
Use normal Supports with X/Y distance of 1.35mm which will provide a gap between the wall and the support making it easy to get a butter knife under it to snap it out.
I had similar issues in the past with such open and thin designs.
And while having proper supports where it matter is of great help = they are useless if they fail.
Which seems to be the case in your pics.
Tree supports LOVE to pop off the bed if they get tall and the nozzle keeps dragging over them or bumping into them.
Use a WIDE brim for the model and supports - don’t be shy to use 15 or more mm if required.
Make sure the brim model gap is set to 0 to prevent ripping off.
Apply some liquid glue stick to the plate:
The stick to get glue onto the entire plate then a soft sponge or lintfree cloth MOIST not dripping wet from water.
Wipe over the cold plate to get and even whitish layer - repeat with few drops of water if things get dry to get just a very thin film of glue on the plate.
Have the first layer speed quite slow to allow for a better bonding and do a test print with a not too wasteful model to see how single tree trunk of similar height as in your bog model will hold up.
A bit of flexing above the 10cm is no big deal, layers failing however is and could indicate the print temp being too low or your flow rate not well calibrated.
That is assuming the filament is dry.
If that goes well your big model should come out just fine.