Plan on trying this.
I happened to catch that video while searching for possible solutions to the unit I had. The updated version definitely appears to address the issues that plagued the cyclopes, which is great. I especially like the auto rotate. I think likely the ones who don’t have issues with this dryer are the ones that also use it to print from which would lead to the roll rotating, where I don’t plan to use it to print from. The updated version definitely looks nice, and if I was in the market for a new one, I might consider it. But, I’m very much the kind of person that will look for older used equipment to save money lol. Now that I have a working fix for the cyclopes, I’m quite happy with it.
I picked up this one recently as an Early Bird on Kickstarter for $80
Not arrived yet due in December but will report back when it arrives.
Holds 4 spools and can even take the larger sized 3kg spool with a printable extension to the unit.
I use an old dehydrator like many people do when I first open the filament or when it’s been neglected, otherwise I keep everything in a huge dry box I built with lots of silica gel and never have a problem with things getting wet. I built an extension for the dehydrator where I can fit 4 rolls in it at a time but I have only had to use it once.
I designed a filament drying cover for X1C/P1S that takes advantage of the Aux fan for more effective drying. It’s available on Makerworld as model #63911.
3 Likes
I have 2 Sunlu S2 dryers, and it is the version with the fan, like @3dsurfr mentioned, you can hear the fan and it sounds like it is placed on the bottom of the dryer under the heater, but I can’t see it.
For people that have the version with the fan, do you find that you need to prop it open a small amount like the older version, or can you keep it closed?
Also, why does nobody suggest drilling a few holes on the sides near the top and bottom instead of propping it open? Is the plastic too brittle to drill into it?
For those interested, here are some useful additions to the Sunlu. A smooth spool roller and PTFE tube attachment.
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/sunlu-filadryer-s2-spool-holder-and-ptfe-adapter/34156?u=simeyesee
Side note on the Eibos dryer! I invested significant time creating an Eibos Easdry Desiccant drying tray I thought I’d share with you all. Unfortunately, even after running it for 10 hours on the highest drying setting, the desiccant never reverted to its original color. 
Despite the disappointment, the design turned out to be pretty cool. I had high hopes for this thing but it was a fun project non the less.
2 Likes
I have been designing a high efficiency filament dryer for a while. I hope to release it around the end of January. It is designed for low cost using a handful of components from AliExpress so you can build it yourself for cheaper than buying one off the shelf.
It will have good thermal properties and the ability to cook high temperature filaments. I am designing it so it can go up to 90°C using PC while being as easy to print as possible. The limiting factor to go at higher temperature is the spool itself that is generally made in ABS so it would melt, otherwise I’d print the dryer itself in PAHT-CF and crank it up at 105°C. 
(Maybe for desiccant?)
The PID controller optionally has a display (for a slight increase in cost), optionally control multiple dryers simultaneously and integrate with https://www.home-assistant.io/ so you can automate it and get notifications on your phone! I’m selecting a high quality humidity sensor so we can move away from duration-based cooking.
I’ll release it on MakerWorld so follow me there to know when the dryer is up online in a few months.
1 Like
I Use my Sunlu S2 at the time for dry filament and print in place but when I receive my Sunlu S4, then i will use it only for drying filament
Very cool idea and design dude!
Bummer it didn’t work because I totally would have used it. I’m guessing the dryer doesn’t get the desiccant hot enough
Thank you I saw some other types of trays for the Sunlu’s and thought it would work out but unfortunately the highest recorded temp was 121F. If it would have worked out I was going to MakerWorld/Printables the thing but at this point it just looks cool. 
Most of the rechargeable dessicant packages I have seen have microwave instructions that are very fast.
Some that I currently have say to put it in the microwave for 7-12 minutes on Defrost (10-30%). Seems like a better option than drying it for hours.
I had no idea, way faster than wasting hours hoping it’s going to dry it like I did. I will have to look into that and buy a junk microwave because I am sure the wife isn’t going to approve me drying my desiccant in the oven or microwave. Thanks for that info! Makes my project even more pointless.
I’ve tried the microwave drying a couple or three times and have some hints.
10 minutes on defrost is the recommended time for my brand. If it’s not in a single layer, it will burn. First time was in organza bags. Melted plastic and burnt beads was the result. Second time was a Pyrex measuring cup resulted in burnt beads. Third try was a large stoneware dinner plate. Much better but now how do you get it back in the bottle? Pour the plate into a loaf pan, bowl or measuring cup then use a funnel to get it into your container of choice.
Expect to get complaints from housemates about all the little crunchy bits all over the counter and floor.
See my reply below about not understanding how my microwave works. Turns out I was using way too much power.
What would be the issue with putting in your regular microwave, isn’t it just evaporating water? I am asking because I was planning to just use my regular microwave and want to know if there is a reason I shouldn’t?
I saw your post after I posted my last one. I guess you gave me at least one reason.
The ones I got are these:
US
https://www.amazon.com/ROOMLINE-Silica-Gel-Packets-Dehumidifiers/dp/B0CCNZVK34
Canada
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0CCNZVK34?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
When I look at the reviews. People don’t seem to have any burning issues in the microwave.
1 Like
They may be thin enough that the heat doesn’t build up as much. Or maybe my Microwave runs too hot on power 5. Or even more likely, maybe I should have used the defrost button. That only now occurred to me 3 weeks later.
A quick check later and I’ve found that my defrost button forces a type of food and weight selection and does not offer just time. I assumed level 5 was defrost but I’ll have to do some research. What you are after is raising the temperature of the silica to about 200°F and holding it there for a while. I can tell you that at 5 on my microwave, the silica does get pretty darn hot!
Just reread the manual. Keep in mind that I installed this microwave in 1999. 
Turns out level 5 is for cooking meat and melting chocolate. Level 3 is defrost. The lesson here is don’t be like Mike. Read the manual. If you hadn’t asked, I would have never figured it out. For that, I thank you.
2 Likes
been watching this thread, apparently the kickstarter doesn’t ship to Canada 
or at least all are greyed out.
Has anyone looked at building one ? Here is a Raspberry Pi controller which uses a PID input to control temp humidity etc… I use an Auber PiD for my bradley smoker so this could be potentially an option… On could in theory build a active dry box with an element and a small fan in a box. the Pi would control the element and fan and theoretically keep a lot of filament dry.
I am just getting into 3D printing but I have build stuff like this before for other purposes , ie brewing beer and smokers…
I also found this for AMS users which seems interesting if the AMS truely is airtight.
One thing to note though, is even if the dryer’s ambient humidity drops to a low percentage, it still takes time for the humidity differential to balance out between the humidity of the filament vs the humidity in the air , because the moisture only releases at a rate proportional to the difference in both measured humidities…
Order day tomorrow , X1C with AMS… can’t wait to play.
I printed a pair of the desiccant holders for the left and right but printed a just a holder for the hygrometer in the center as I figured that it would give me a better average level than if the sensor was buried in desiccant. The mod has helped keep the humidity low. Don’t reload the holders with still warm desiccant fresh from the microwave. Just saying…