All of the above has dragged out immensely and wanted to keep it short,
I think the Sunlu S2 arrived around early March? trynna find the receipt
Quoting Cathy Newman;
“Hmm so youre saying… I need to purchase yet another filament dryer, another Sunlu S2?”
Thanks for the update mate, the news of the new fan had not arrived in the Northern Wilderness of Sweden until the moment you answered my post with some pure facts.
Dang looks like I need to go shopping again…
Amazon still has some old models without the fan. Gotta make sure before purchase.
You should try printing from the filament dryer while it’s drying and see your results. I wonder if that could improve things further? I would let it start drying for an hour or two then start printing from it and see if it can help or if their is a difference.
Hmm… after a life long deep dive in to competition shooting my hearing is more than less “shot”… (Pun intended) … so nope, I can neither hear any fan even rolling a paper to like one of them oldass funnel-style hearing aids. Neither can I see a fan anywhere nor any fan ducts also I feel no air moving anywhere inside/around it.
Where should this fan be located?
Dang so they sent me the wrong version? 
I’ve had only 1 issue with my easdry from Eibos, the pull cord to open it came apart. I need to print a handle or tool so that I don’t have to use a screwdriver to open it. It has a fan that moves the heated air through the center of the spool first but the heater only draws 45 watts when full on so it would be very unlikely it could get hot enough to melt anything. In fact, I had to tweak the hidden potentiometer to get it up to the values shown for PLA and PETG. I only dry a single spool at a time but that meets my needs just fine.
Edit:
Turns out the two halves of the door are snapped together. I popped them apart, pulled off the little silver sticker that’s supposed to keep the cord in the groove and restrung it. Put the sticker back on, snapped the door back together and replaced the horseshoe like plastic pull with a spare seat belt button and some hot glue. It works again.
Sunlu have just released the S4 which holds 4 spools of filament with 3 fans. Still available via Early Bird on Kickstarter for $89.99 I believe instead of RRP of around $130
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/sunluofficial/sunlu-filadryer-s4?ref=discovery&term=sunlu
I have had the Sunlu S2 for a while now, the filament is an hour ahead of the S2 when I start printing from the S2. Satisfied with it so far.
I have two Sovol 3D Dryers. But in fact my 3 AMS’es are doing such a greta job keeping my filaments dry that I don’t use them anymore.
I’ll keep them as back up.,
This one fits the bill perfectly, used it for over a year.
what brand is that do you have a link?
I have an Ebois box which works amazing! Its about the same price as the Sunlu but it actually vents to the outside instead of circulating wet air.
That’s the one I have. Every new spool of Bambu brand filament spends a day at the Eibos spa before going into the AMS. Bambu is by far the wettest filament I’ve used so far.
I was going to ask if these worked or were just a suggestion, i have a large excalibur dehydrator which would hold several spools of filament.
I’ll be honest and say that I don’t know at what point PLA needs drying. I had spools sitting in the bottom drawer of my print stand, not protected in any way, since 2018 that printed fine on the X1C without drying or calibration beyond what the printer does at the beginning of a print.
I do keep nylon and TPU as dry as I can get it, sealed in a bag with a handful of desiccant in a organza bag. PLA and PETG just get the bag so that they don’t pick up moisture and make me have to change the desiccant in the AMS.
I use the dryer on all Bambu filament because it’s typically so wet that it drives the AMS humidity from 10% to 40% and saturates the desiccant in the AMS which is annoying. I figure if the AMS is at 40+% then my nylon spool I’ve so carefully kept dry will just pick the moisture up and that might be a problem.
I measure the AMS humidity with one of these in this holder. Is it the most accurate thing there is? Nope, not by a major distance unit! Does it give me an idea of what’s going on? It does. It won’t display lower that 10% which is OK as I’m guessing anything below 20% is good enough. I live in the Pacific Northwest, it’s 89% outside, 45% inside right now. And It’s a rather blustery day, Pooh.
I use these, one and two, documents from Bambu as my guide. You can print the second one as a PDF or on paper using the printer icon that’s sort of to the left and down.
Forgot to add that I’ve never bothered with drying Overture PLA, it’s never caused an issue with the AMS humidity that Bambu filament does. I have 12 spools of Overture on the shelf right now and have run at least 25 more through the printer since I got it.
I have had two spools of MatterHackers PLA that were spitting and stringing horribly until I put them in a dryer. I think perhaps they picked up that moisture in storage or transit, but it does happen.
I bought an Emboss 3d Cyclopes off FB marketplace for super cheap. It has a pretty big flaw though, the heater blows directly onto the bottom of the spools and they’re way too low which causes filament to quickly melt. Thankfully, the 3D printing community is amazing at fixing manufacturer flaws and I found a solution on Printables that printed last night and it has worked wonderfully!
Modbot did a review yesterday on the new Eibos Polyphemus dryer and it seems like they’ve addressed the hot spot issue and added a bunch of features, some of which he wonders if they are all that useful. I wonder if the auto rotate that he questioned was added to help with the hot spot just in case the new air flow route needed help. At the end, he says he still uses the Easdry and that it’s his go to. He also says he still likes and uses the Cyclops.
Plan on trying this.
