I don’t disagree with “Heating the filament will remove more moisture than desiccant” given a short amount of time. Heating is always the “quick fix”.
But if you don’t need to print with the filament right away, a dry box with well stocked desiccant will do an adequate job of drying the filament for first use, without shocking it with heat and has the added benefit of keeping the filament conditioned.
I have been using this method with great results.
The Wisedry packs have a color changing indicator that I check everytime I open a box to retrieve a spool. I have spare dried/recharged packs on hand when they need to be swapped out.
Since the Wisedry packs are more hygroscopic than the filament, the moisture will migrate from the one to the other.
Those that rely on heat drying their filament every time they want to print with it, will see its properties degrade.
The way I see it, even simply putting a small heater such as:
( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C3VS2T9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )
from amazon into a clear sterilite box would get you halfway toward having your own DIY filament drier. To avoid hot spots that might damage your filament, pick a bigger box, and perhaps put in some extra fans inside the box to further even out the heat (similar to a convection oven).
Well a nice long sting for the PETG at 65 and no problems at all… not even close to melted. So it must be your unit.
My next goal is PET-CF, which Bambu Labs says you should dry at 80C for 6 hours, fresh out of the wrapper, before trying to print with it. Vision miner says to dry their version at 90C using input air that has already been dried to a dew point of -40C. I don’t know how one would even do that last requirement.
The printdry v3 can be set to 85C, but I’ve checked that with temperature probes, and the truth is it delivers closer to 75C.internal air temperature at its 85C setting.
PET-CF is not as bad as PA for water absorption, about half. Can try just printing it without drying.
You don’t need a filament dryer for the Bambu Lab AMS. Ic comes equipped with two storage areas for silica gel packs, and there are a number of printing projects for adding further silica gel containers that fit between the filament feeders. In addition, the AMS measures its internal humidity and provides an easy to read report on the results.
In case of individual filament reels that may have picked up moisture, and which I feel have not degraded in an unrecoverable way, I dry in a Sunlu S1 unit. All of my bulk offline storage is kept in hermetically sealed containers, with silica gel packs, and with WiFi humidity monitors. I keep new filament in its plastic bag until needed.
I live in the Netherlands, wet like in the UK 
From my in-car and other desiccants manuals I have learnt to not warm them up above 80°C (176°F) because when they get too hot, they lose their absorbing capacity.
The Eibos Polyphemus is probably worth a look after it finally ships (end of month, allegedly). It’s the one that rotates the filament while drying like a rotisserie. Are there any others which do that, or will it be unique in that respect? Seems like a really good idea. Also, it has a vent at the top for allowing moisture to escape. All good concepts, but these days you never really know how well it’s been done until real users report back.
As for me, I finally gave up on rinky-dink solutions and bought a blast oven from China. Talk about a huge chunk of metal! Built like a tank. Weighs 80 pounds. I hope to use it for annealing as its main purpose, but it’s the gold standard for filament drying.