I use grid, I’m trying rectilinear, any suggestions?
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Go for non-crossing infills and surfaces like monotonic (line), honeycomb, gyroid,… to avoid the infamous “speed bumps” and nozzle pick-ups.
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I’m trying lightning, I saw online that that one’s decent. i’ll try the ones you suggested.
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I usually use gyroid, seems to help prevent warping with some filaments as it as it tends to shrink uniformly. Cubic also works pretty well and can be faster.
If I ever print with Grid, it’s because I downloaded a 3mf and was not paying attention. Don’t know why Bambu makes it their default.
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One of the youtubers tested for strength and the 2 best were grid and gyroid. Gyroid is best overall as Im sure others have said. A 3rd option is honeycomb or 3d honeycomb. I personally use Grid for parts with a large footprint(slightly less noisy) and gyroid for others. If its going to have transparent walls, I use honeycomb
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@lkraus and @StreetSports thank you, I will try gyroid and see how it works!
The best infill type depends heavily on the model and its intended use. Organic models, for example, often benefit from gyroid infill due to its excellent ability to handle multi-directional forces and distribute stress evenly. On the other hand, more mechanical parts with straight edges and uniform load distribution might perform better with 3D Honeycomb infill, as it can be faster to print and provides good strength for specific directional forces.
To claim that one infill type is better than another, it’s essential to understand both the model’s geometry and the forces it will encounter during use. For instance, gyroid infill would excel in a curved component like a prosthetic limb, where stress comes from multiple angles. Meanwhile, 3D Honeycomb infill would be ideal for a flat, structural part like a bracket, where stiffness along specific axes is critical.
Personally, I primarily use gyroid or 3D Honeycomb for their distinct advantages: gyroid for its multi-directional force handling and 3D Honeycomb for its speed and efficiency in meeting specific load requirements. However, even with these options, it’s crucial to evaluate the specific needs of your design—sometimes neither of these infill types is suitable!
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Thanks a lot @L0rdS474n , in that case i’ll probably use honeycomb.
I find myself going to Gyriod often
I use gyroid and grid but I would like to use a different infill because when I do prints with gyroid overnight my printer (A1 mini) moves and I am afraid it might fall off the table it is on, but I also don’t like grid because it crosses itself.
Non slip mat 
Costs a few cents and stops the printer from moving…
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Thanks for the idea (Post must be at least 25 characters)
No worries!
It is often the easy things that won’t come to mind.
I had moving printer before and kept swearing at it for weeks until a mate of mine asked “Why do you have a roll of non slip mat sitting there but refuse to use it?” …
Getting old ain’t easy for me LOL
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Gyroid is my default, but for long parts I get the impression it may contribute to warping a lot more than honeycomb does. Not 100% sure though. Anyone else of the same or different opinion regarding the best infill to avoid warping?
I have noticed more warping when I switched from grid to gyroid but I never thought that was the cause until I read this. I don’t think I have never tried any other infill.
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Gyroid, always.
I’ve never noticed any warping.
Are you printing 1. only pla or 2. only small prints (say, <100mm in any axis)?
I print big and small in PLA, PETG, ABS and ASA, but 90% PLA.
Since it’s my first post here - hello everyone! I have a question about best infill types as well but specifically for my situation - so what kind of infill and how many % would you use for something like a flat 0.5cm thick plate that is almost as big as the printer’s plate and on the other hand what infill would you use and how many % for very long (like almost 25cm) and thin (1.5x1.5cm) objects? Of course I wouldn’t want them to break easily but also I wouldn’t like to spend a ton of filament (I use PLA btw.). I did a few tests so far and gyroid broke quite easily for those tall and thin objects (I used max 25% for gyroid) I was able to break triangles with 33% as well so instead of doing another tests I thought I’d just ask more experienced users.
It’s not just about infill, the number of walls, or the amount of overlap between walls and infill. Try increasing the number of walls by one under the Strength tab and see if that helps. You have a large, thin model that would benefit from additional walls to achieve stiffness (if that’s what you’re aiming for). You could also consider printing it in TPU for AMS, which is a 65D TPU that would provide both stiffness and flexibility for your model.