Here is a draft for your forum post, tailored to the Bambu Lab community tone—clear, technical, and open to community feedback.
Hey everyone,
I’m looking for some advice on optimizing the setup for my H2C. I currently have the Vortex loaded with 5x 0.4mm nozzles, 1x 0.2mm, and 1x 0.6mm, with the main nozzle being a 0.4mm (standard mode). (Plan to grab 2 more 0.4mm nozzles for the Vortex soon!)
Right now, I have 2x AMS 2 units—one connected to each nozzle. However, I’m trying to figure out the most efficient physical and routing layout.
Here are the setup options I’m considering:
Left Nozzle: AMS HT | Right Nozzle: 2x AMS 2 Pro (using a Y-splitter / dual PTFE connector).
Left Nozzle: External spool | Right Nozzle: 2x AMS 2 (using a splitter/connector).
Filament Switch route: Using a filament switch to route both AMS 2 units to both nozzles.
My main doubts & logic:
Filament Switch Concern: If I use a Filament Switch and run a two-color print where both colors live inside the same AMS unit, wouldn’t it constantly trigger retractions back and forth? Keeping a dedicated spool on the left nozzle seems like it would eliminate that overhead entirely for simple standard prints or specific filaments.
Redundancy of the Switch: If I end up plumbing both AMS 2 units strictly to the right nozzle, the Filament Switch becomes completely useless, right?
I’d love to hear how you’ve routed your multi-AMS setups on the H2C to minimize toolhead travel, retractions, and purge waste. What’s the ultimate configuration in your experience
i had a ikea bror shelf 85x190cm high its the best for the price it can hol up to 200kg great for a 3d printing business i think you should buy it too or 2 to connect if you gonna buy a printer in the future and extra storage i have 325kg of bamba filament my hole shelf i s loaded
The answer is get the FTS and consider getting a single AMS HT to feed the left nozzle.
On average, this will be the most efficient setup for efficient filament feeding, and you can reconfigure in a matter of seconds - either by moving a spool of filament or by flipping one of the AMS 2 units to the other FTS input.
You’ll also need two of the new style 4 into 1 connector to do this.
If you don’t want to get the HT yet, get just the FTS and put one AMS on each side.
Don’t overthink it, you don’t know what your filament needs are for all your future prints, so you want to set up the most flexible arrangement possible.
Yes, but if there was no FTS at all, if both colors were in the same AMS and it was connected to the left nozzle, you’d be retracting fully each time AND purging, and if it was in the right nozzle-connected AMS you’d still have full retracts and depending on which nozzle size you may or may not have purges.
Redundancy of the Switch: If I end up plumbing both AMS 2 units strictly to the right nozzle, the Filament Switch becomes completely useless, right?
Not totally - each AMS will only retract to just before the switch inlets, so depending on your PTFE setup you may save some time. Without the FTS, each would retract all the way back to the AMS.