I try to print TPU (without AMS) 95A, but It’s hard.
Before I had an MK3S like (since 2015), slooooower than carbon of course, and with the X1 C I don’t know where I must begin my setting.
So, my question :
What’s your own setting to TPU 95A (or like) on Slicer and filament setting? (speed; retraction, volume, temp, etc)
After I’d begin my preset based on your setting.
You’ll very useful to me. Really… really… because my TPU prints are horrible to see
So far, this gives me perfect prints.
And you don’t modify the speed?
It’s possible that my TPU are too wet. I’ll dry it and retry
My TPU is brand new, no other default TPU settings changed - speed is set to whatever TPU default is. In fact I’ve increased it, the max volumetric speed I think, and that works fine on 95A.
Has anyone printed TPU 82A, if yes please share your settings
I received new filament in Saturday. Started same at 215 C and realised a lot of stringing. Dried it in a filamentdryer for 4-5 hours. Yestderday started again, stringing (almost) gone. Still 215 C and 30 mm/s, other the slicer’#s standard setting for TPU 95A.
I spent a lot of time today trying to dial in SainSmart TPU and I’m still not there…
I used this model which has 45° overhangs:
To get the overhangs to print reasonably well, I increased the minimum layer time to 16s, which helped a lot.
While testing different temperatures, I found that a higher temperature prevented stringing, so I ended up with 230°C.
I then reduced the maximum flow to 3mm³/s as I was getting extrusion problems at higher speeds.
Overhangs still looked bad, the last attempt was done at 2mm³/s which turned out great. Of course the printer looked like it was going in slow motion, but slowing it down helped a lot in the end.
5mm³/s is not possible with the SainSmart TPU. At least for me.
Beautiful print 3dball. I’ll try with 3mm/s too. I have some extrusion problems at 5mm/s.
At 3mm³/s the overhangs still looked bad, at 2mm³/s they looked good.
As you do not normally print many overhangs with TPU, a simpler print will definitely go faster.
I tried after I dryed it 12hours.
I think that my TPU is horrible. I lost the tag but it’s possibly a 90A or less.
I can print with it on my Prusa like but it is very hard too. But on the bambu I can’t. I set : retraction, volumetric, speed, temperature…
It’s boring, try, try, try… fail, fail, fail… 20 times!! like before with my others printers. Too time-consuming. I m going to buy an other TPU, it’s better for my nerve health.
I’m too old for that, I took X1C to have never spend too much hours on setting, mecanic or electroinic. I prefer to create now
That doesn’t sound like fun…
Do you mind telling me what exactly failed on these prints? Are you not even able to print a very basic model?
I just use the default TPU 95A and the engineering plate
So far I’ve had good luck but I also feed it from either my Solvol or Sain Smart driers which I feel is a very important factor when printing with materials that more easily can absorb moisture
The begin lol. Filament doesn’t extract or only on the begin with the purge. It blocks into the extruder. I tried without retract it’s ok but impossible to print well, at 0.15 = blocked / minus = dirty.
I of course combined the parameters of temperature, retraction, volumetric
I’m tired lol… I calm me before retry
Honestly I’m very much a rookie and still have a lot to learn
I was just throwing out what works for me
Perhaps a larger nozzle size woukd help with your jamming issues but as I read through and occasionally comment I’ve realized that I’m out of my league in some regards
That being said as a commercial refrigeration mechanic for the past 17 years I have found that quite often regardless of the problem the most complicated issues are often overlooked by the simplest solutions
My appologies for chiming in on something that is possibly beyond my scope
I’m here only to learn not to act like I actually know the answers
Good luck and I look forward to reading what your solution is
Hey @3dball , can you link to the/share the STL of that sphere thing you printed to calibrate TPU printing?
3dball can you share your tpu settings ?!Thanks a lot your print looks really awesome in tpu
I just bought some of the rubbish sain smart blue tpu 95a (luckily only a small roll and cheap) But damn its hard to work with.
The only way i can get a consistent flow is running At 250’c 50c bed 50% part fan 10%aux and 50% chamber with the door open. Its printing but at the start it popped crackled spit etc. I dried it for three days in a dehumidifier.
At first the extruder refused to pick it up.
Still loads of stringing tweaked settings for a long time ie retraction disabled no wall cross etc etc etc etc. Honestly I think il take this roll back and hoik it at their heads. Id say its old garbage stock.
The machine somehow calibrated itself with no extrusion 3 times (I kept stopping it when it tried to print the invisible layer.) I finally got some headway after i jiggled the filament in and out and in and out till it grabbed it while it was doing its fourth calibration. …
It started printing as per norm then it popped up the laser couldn’t see the first layer. lol really.
Filament exposure metering failed because laser reflection is too weak on this material… dir shite shirlock theres nothing there.
I spent in total 4 hours mucking around with it to do a 45 min print.
As such ive decided
print an inverse mould out of pla abs whatever go on amazon and buy some silicone, i literally just wanted to make a simple baking hopper spatula… ugh. lol
This is the way.