Honestly I’m very much a rookie and still have a lot to learn
I was just throwing out what works for me
Perhaps a larger nozzle size woukd help with your jamming issues but as I read through and occasionally comment I’ve realized that I’m out of my league in some regards
That being said as a commercial refrigeration mechanic for the past 17 years I have found that quite often regardless of the problem the most complicated issues are often overlooked by the simplest solutions
My appologies for chiming in on something that is possibly beyond my scope
I’m here only to learn not to act like I actually know the answers
Good luck and I look forward to reading what your solution is
You say good things. But I think this filament is just a really old ■■■■ lol. With time It became a good elastic but a bad filament 
With the manual charging I can print on an old I3 not with the Carbon X1 because there aren’t many possibilities to hack like a wild beast 
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Hey @3dball , can you link to the/share the STL of that sphere thing you printed to calibrate TPU printing?
Thanks!
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Sure, here you go:
https://www.printables.com/model/354649-corner-bumper-no-supports/comments/607935
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3dball can you share your tpu settings ?!Thanks a lot your print looks really awesome in tpu
Please have a look here:
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I just bought some of the rubbish sain smart blue tpu 95a (luckily only a small roll and cheap) But damn its hard to work with.
The only way i can get a consistent flow is running At 250’c 50c bed 50% part fan 10%aux and 50% chamber with the door open. Its printing but at the start it popped crackled spit etc. I dried it for three days in a dehumidifier.
At first the extruder refused to pick it up.
Still loads of stringing tweaked settings for a long time ie retraction disabled no wall cross etc etc etc etc. Honestly I think il take this roll back and hoik it at their heads. Id say its old garbage stock.
The machine somehow calibrated itself with no extrusion 3 times (I kept stopping it when it tried to print the invisible layer.) I finally got some headway after i jiggled the filament in and out and in and out till it grabbed it while it was doing its fourth calibration. …
It started printing as per norm then it popped up the laser couldn’t see the first layer. lol really.
Filament exposure metering failed because laser reflection is too weak on this material… dir shite shirlock theres nothing there.
I spent in total 4 hours mucking around with it to do a 45 min print.
As such ive decided
print an inverse mould out of pla abs whatever go on amazon and buy some silicone, i literally just wanted to make a simple baking hopper spatula… ugh. lol
This is the way.
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Make sure it’s on a hard reel so it has some impact … 
Sure sounds like cr#p, I’d definitely return it. BTW - when you think of replacing it beware Ninjatek. They were one of the first to make TPU, but they have gone south.
I received 4 reels (very $$ too) and there was no vacuum bag, just in a cardboard box 
Ends not secured, reel was a mess.
I dried it at their recommended temp and the bloody reel warped horribly!
What a bunch of clowns. Shipping a known hydroscopic filament open and using reels that melt during drying. I’ve dried countless filaments with no problem. I was, as the Brits say - gobsmacked.
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i soent most of the day yesterday printing tests with it on a mates machine and hopefully dialled it in a little more. It is on a solid roll actually so it should impact pretty well upon return lol
it comes out all ■■■■ on the top surfaces. Not bad for my prototype purposes, but ended up putting it in the sandwich press (this part, not the whole roll) lol i aat it in there in between a ptfe flexy sheet and ironed it out a little. But Im more leaning towards printing a negative in nylon and pouring silicone into it.
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Yep. I don’t think I ever had a good top surface on any TPU, mostly it was such a PITA to get to to print at all I was happy to have what I got (not on a BL printer).
You’re a madman. But very clever! LOL!
I did try fire after using other chemicals to try and smooth it. Turns out that some of those sprays are highly flammable as the flame i tried next not only melted everything but followed back to my fingers for a hot few seconds. lol
It actually got me researching other methods to soften other alternatives to tpu such as carburettor cleaner on pla. It makes it floppy and elastic. Not sure of the hazards as such. But yeah are there other ways you could go about getting soft plastics ie make a mould and inject the tpu into it? I was tossing around that idea as work has several plastic injection moulding machines that ive become fairly familiar with. To me it looks far simpler to do that than print, and we already have a really effective extruder and bed/head that can shake rattle and role plastic inti crevices of a mould. I mean it should print it, especially for the price, but yeah i like thinking outside the box.
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Yep, I was right, you are officially a madman.
Sound like something I’d do. LOL
The only way to fly.
I think you may be correct in injecting it instead. Some things just don’t lend themselves to 3D printing. You don’t use a chainsaw to snip a rose bud. Right tool for the job and all that. Besides it always feels better when you stop banging your head on the wall.
One last thought - IDK what results you might have if you tried turning on Ironing for the top. You might have to play with the Ironing Flow and Line Spacing settings for it but it might smooth the top enough.
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Are you using the Engineering plate? What speed are you printing the first layer at? What about the other layers? Do you use glue or not? I’m also having a lot of bad luck on printing with TPU.
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Have you tried the Generic TPU settings? I would definitely start there.
This is my first attempt using some 5yr Yoyi TPU with the Generic TPU settings. Not dried and no glue. Now it’s far from perfect, but considering I just grabbed some random TPU off my desk and slapped it in my X1C with generic settings, I think it came out fairly well. I’m guessing the top fell apart because as @3dball 's pointed out, the default min layer time of 8 seconds is not enough. I’ll give it another go with some adjustments and see how it goes.
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Bumping up the min layer time seemed to do the trick. It looks like there is still some room for improvement though, the corners are a little rough.
Since I posted my screen shots for my settings, I’ve been able to bump up from 5mm/sec to 15mm/sec but I’ve had to increase retraction to 2mm and also remove the tick from slowdown for overhangs. No glue, just 45degrees on the textured bed. 1st layer is 5mm. Fan is just on tick-over. My TPU melts at 205 so I’ve set the nozzle to that.
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What speed was used on this. Looks mint. Im about to try my first ever tpu. Im a bit scared 
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Ever since I’ve been using this preset that I found on printables I’ve been getting very clean TPU prints. Hope it can help you too
https://www.printables.com/model/395685-bambu-lab-x1-x1c-tpu-preset
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Some TPU (more flex) need to set the pressure of extruder but the screw isn’t accesible easily.
the plastic cover of the head makes it inaccessible without having to disassemble the whole extruder. I have some PETG whose need to unscrew it otherwise they get stuck in the gears of the extruder because too deformed by these gears
Thank you very much, since applying these settings my TPU prints have massively improved.