I am using the standard supports (I can’t use tree style for my pieces), and they’re at the default settings. The results are excellent, however, there are smaller sections where the supports are super tough to remove. I wind up using the clipper tool and it takes forever and ups the chances of damaging the piece. What key setting(s) should I be changing to make them either a little less dense, or easier to remove? Thank you!
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I print a bunch of tiny high resolution parts and the “Top Z Distance” and “Bottom Z Distance” made the biggest impact for ease of removing the supports. Mind you, I think it really depends on what you are printing, and of course, the kind of filament you are using. A lot of trial and error since there probably isn’t any one cure all for all prints.
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Thanks. I will fiddle with the Z Distance first, and see what happens from there.
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Try hybrid tree
Z top and bottom 0.2
Xy 0.35
Manually type in 3 interface layers (it only goes up to 2 using the arrow)
And don’t forget a heat gun or even a blow drier when used carefully will not only clean up any scars left from support removal but can also aid in removing stubborn supports
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When I use supports I use standard because tree supports always leave a mess to clean up.
It really depends on the model geometry how easily they come loose. It seems that the worst case it a round object laying on its side. the bottom is a mess.
I also try to use “on build plate only” so it does not fill every hole with support material. Most of the time the bridge is just fine, and I don’t have to clean out so many supports.
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I found this after doing some more research - for a beginner like me I really foudn the explainations of the settings helpful
To make supports easier to removeyou can adjust the following settings:
- Top Z distance: This is the gap between the top of the support structure and the bottom of the printed object. Increasing this value will make the supports easier to remove but may reduce the quality of the supported surface.
- Bottom Z distance: This is the gap between the build plate and the bottom of the support structure. Adjusting this can affect the stability of the support structure. Generally, this setting doesn’t need much tweaking for easier removal but can be increased slightly if you notice difficulties in removing supports from the build plate.
- Top interface layers: These are the layers between the support structure and the printed object. Reducing the number of interface layers will make the supports easier to remove but may affect the surface quality of the supported area.
- Bottom interface layers: These are the layers between the build plate and the support structure. Similar to the top interface layers, reducing the number of these layers can help with easier removal.
Suggested Adjustments:
Top Z distance: Increase slightly from 0.2 mm to 0.3 mm. This will make the supports easier to remove by increasing the gap between the support and the model, reducing adhesion.
Bottom Z distance: Keep this at 0.2 mm. Changing this usually does not significantly affect support removal unless you’re experiencing issues with supports sticking to the build plate.
Top interface layers: Reduce from 2 layers to 1 layer. This will make the supports easier to remove but may slightly affect the surface quality.
Bottom interface layers: Reduce from 2 layers to 1 layer. This can help with easier removal if the supports are sticking too much to the build plate.
Explanation:
Increasing Top Z distance: A larger gap reduces the contact area between the support and the model, making it easier to remove the support material. However, too large a gap can lead to poorer surface quality.
Reducing Top interface layers: Fewer layers reduce the bond strength between the support and the model, facilitating easier removal. However, this can slightly degrade the surface finish on the underside of the model.
Reducing Bottom interface layers: Similar to the top interface layers, fewer bottom interface layers can help with easier support removal from the build plate, but this is typically less critical than the top interface layers.
These adjustments should make your supports easier to remove without significantly impacting the overall print quality for areas that will be covered.
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The defaults are good for standard prints.
Once you have small details, supports deep inside a model and such you have to get creative.
One thing first though:
The support removal is easy if the filament is calibrated properly.
Any over-extrusion makes getting the support settings right a nightmare.
Sometimes we think too much.
Like when thinking that we need supports for everything.
You might be surprised how good well tuned bridging can work…
On the other hand we often need dedicated supports for very small, maybe even pointy things.
The distance to the model should not be too small…
Especially for those tree supports.
Top and bottom model distance should be TESTED in terms of quality of the first solid layer above them.
A bit of roughness for a big, flat area can be acceptable, a washboard look maybe not.
Filament sagging happens whenever the bridging can’t keep things flat.
That’s why for such surface the slicer tries to include like a bridging layer on with the actual layer builds up.
You can tweak in two ways once the top and bottom distances are sorted.
The interference layers, their density and pattern define how much or little support you actually get and how fine this support might be.
Main purpose is to make it easier to get the supports off, the interference layer might get stuck on the model.
The key to getting things to get off clean is to have the print temp as low as required to prevent the interference layer from fusing to the model.
Increasing the Z distance can allow the filament to cool a bit more and makes separation easier but often comes with a lower surface quality for the supported area.
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Hey I was wonder if there is a way in the settings to have less supports on a print I’m trying to print and iron man armor and the supports are using up more filiment than the actual armor itself
Welcome to the forum.
Yes, there are lots of adjustments you can make to either the type of support or the way it generates. The Wiki had a good article regarding this.
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Something else to be aware of is water soluble support. Studio will just use it for the parts that touch the model. Set your z distance to zero where it just prints on it like a layer and let it soak in warm water afterwards until the interface dissolves.
I haven’t used it yet but have a spool in my cart. Others seem to like it though so this is entirely hearsay. 
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Ok thank you both I’ll try them wish me luck
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So far the tree slim supports are working great I’m working on the face plate and it is printing spaghetti like when I usually print cosplay armor so fingers crossed
That’s a ChatGPT answer. Let’s not just post these and talk instead about what we tried that really works.
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I tried the setting mentioned and it worked well for me
What a ridiculous claim to make. When someone is extremely well researched and lays out information in an easy format for a beginner, it is suddenly ai generated? foh. All of his information is not only useful, but accurate.
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Hey guys, I’ve modified some support parameters to make it easier to detach the part from the supports, but I’m encountering an issue that I think is caused by increasing the top Z distance from .16 to .275.
Basically, the nozzle is printing too close to the build plate, risking scratches and making a scraping noise throughout the entire print. If I print with this value set back to .16, the problem disappears. Additionally, it seems to improve if I set the interface layers back to 2 (I had set them to 1), but I’m not sure about this, so it’s better to focus on the top Z distance.
I’m printing a hollow sphere that rests entirely on supports, using PLA, a 0.4 mm nozzle and an A1 Mini. Other than that, the parameters are almost all identical to those of the .16 Optimal preset.
I tried increasing the Z offset in the machine start G-code, but nothing changed, so the problem isn’t there. In fact, I don’t think a simple change in the top Z distance could lead to issues that need to be solved by modifying the G-code.
I don’t understand how increasing the top Z distance causes the nozzle to scrape throughout the print, since the top Z distance should only affect the gap between the top layer of the supports and the bottom layer of the part. I hope someone can help me, because I’ve tried everything to solve it but haven’t been able to.