You rock. Thanks for doing the test. The 110v vs 220v or 120vs240 was brought up because they are ac powered beds, so the 2 act different.
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Just that 240V might be getting to temperature a bit faster.
Here is a IR camera time-lapse of heating from ācoldā to 120C.
Each image is 10s apart, so these images cover a 5 minute timespan.
This is a 240V printer, firmware is 01.01.01.00
I think the printer said it was up to set temperature after about 3 minutes.
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I would say those thermal images match my measurements quite well regarding absolute temperature values.
Honestly: if this slight non-uniformity is causing print failures, we should search for different materials (plate and filament). There must be some marginā¦
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About 5-degree delta and in thermals, you can see the differenceā¦ yeah, that doesnāt look too great.
It turns out the probes went directly above where the heating element was. If @T_guttata would put the probes the other spots, that might settle any remaining concerns people may have.
Sure, I just canāt flap my mind around the fact that $2k printer has THIS bad and low quality heating elementā¦ I guess Chinese Chabuduo at its finestā¦ ugh, it works, it may even stick. Good enough. Like why do we even have to discuss this in the flagship printer.
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It actually appears to work better than expected near the edges, which is usually a problem zone. It now looks like this might have been the reason why it was laid out the way it was.
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No matter what, itās not as good as the MK52 bed from Prusa or other edge-to-edge heaters.
After the firmware update I have not had any heatbed adhesion problems, so Iād say it works just fine.
You are aware that the heatbed you mention is smaller, and therefore easier to produce? The heatbed for the XL is about 400 euros for 16 tiles. This is double the price of the H2Dās heatbed. (It is slightly larger though).
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Whatās up with Bambu usersā¦ you forgot how to read or what? MK52 is not XL tile.
Thatās #1.
#2 - you can open the freaking link up and see how much good quality heater costsā¦ itās not hard, right? Even for a large-sized bedā¦
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@ Advocado
- The X1C uses the same principle for heating, alluminum PCB with traces. But as you can see from my previous measurement, temperature uniformity is worse than for the H2D. Therefore, if you think the Prusa XL is better, you should show us evidence.
- Temperature uniformity is not at all bad. Absolute temperature is what should be improved, and Iām sure this can pe improved with firmware. Good engineering is about finding the right compromise. If the temperature uniformity would be +/- 2Ā°C but the plate would be triple the price, people would complain anyway because of price.
May be itās just hard for you to see that Bambu has taken leadership in 3D printing in no time? No matter what they do, it is just better in almost very aspect. I hope that Prusa can catch up. Every company needs competition, otherwise people get lazy (Intel is a good example).
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Iām guessing this was with the chamber heating off and door open for the camera - so this 13 deg difference, in the real world (where youād probably heat the chamber if you have the bed set to 120) really could be āapproximately 5ā as Bambu claims.
When did I say the Mk52 bed was for the XL?
I donāt see how the MK52 bed is relevant because itās smaller, and therefore much easier to make flat and uniform. If you are talking Prusa parts for a 300mm bed, you probably to use XL tiles, but fewer of them.
Or you could do what Voron does and put a 300mm bed into a 350mm printer ā¦ HAHA
Politics make me unwilling to purchase anything from a US company right now, so Fabreeko is non-existant, but you can get a quality AC-powered 350mm non-American silicon heat bed for about 100 euros. (And to be fair, if you are in the US, Fabreeko seems to be the same price for now, as their stock is already in the country)
edit In any case, the H2D heat bed is working now (at least for me) so whatās your actual problem?
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Not super happy with the bed heating issues. First off, sorry as the first photo was taken a week ago and for some reason the camera flipped the image. So the two images are upside down from each other. The first photo was on the original stable firmware and the second photo was on the new beta 01.01.02.04 BETA. Nothing else changed. Only difference I can notice is they increased the temperature by maybe 5c overall. But Iām getting about a 10C difference from high to low. And my PETG parts do warp if the edges are in those cold corners. Note: my final temps will not be super accurate as its from a thermal camera but they should still be accurate on the variance. My thermal gun shows almost identical temps as the thermal camera.
Photo Parameters
- Bed at bottom of printer( to get a full picture).
- Print bed pre-heated for 15 min at 110*C
- Door opened for less than 20 seconds to snap photo.
- NO fans on at all.
- There are 3 lines. The two dots on each line is the High and low for that Line.
First Photo, Stable official firmware. 01.01.01.*** (I forget)(NOTE: Camera is flipped upside down on this photo)
Second Photo, BETA 01.01.02.04
Some video they rise bed temp at 10 celsius and then pla stick in bed
I honestly donāt believe that one can solve warp issue only by having a even bed temp. Even if you have a perfectly even 70C bed, parts that are prone to warp, would still warp. After all itās more about the filament shrinkage rate rather than other things. Essentially what you can do is still to increase temp, add glue or brim, use a clip to hold the plate on bedā¦
Temperature equilibrium is a big one. This is why a heated chamber is such a big deal for stopping warp. It creates as small as possible of temp difference between the bottom surface and the rest of the part. A sealed chamber stops drafts from creating a larger difference in temps. Otherwise, The part expands and contracts inconsistently. Even bed temp has been a good thing since the beginning. You want it as even as possible, and the farther from even you get, the greater chance of warp and adhesion loss. Cant solve it, but you can minimize in design.
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