What worries me is that compared to a lot of filaments, PLA barely warps at all. So, if PLA is warping, what will a highly warp prone filament do? Pringle every time it’s positioned on the wrong part of the build plate (i.e. when it straddles the high temperature gradient on the build plate)? To someone unaware of the cause, it might even seem like random failures, without noticing that how they positioned the model is affecting the outcome. We’ve probably all experienced such a thing at one point or another before the light bulb goes off.
I watched a review with technical filaments.
Dont worry to much. There is warping, but much less than the prusa XL has, as i already told in a post.
Technical filaments are fine to print.
Edit:
It seems they stick better to the print plate and the temperate build volume helps with that.
The printer seems to be realy good, but not perfect.
The real question is as this thread says, what can we do about it.
Fact is, stonger heating unit is not possible.
There are countrys where the power plus is on its limit.
What can you do. In the software you can add another few seconds heating time, or better said, you would need to add heating circles. You heat the bed fast, shut down the beating, waite a few seconds and heat it again. You have to test how often you would have to do that to get a better head distribution.
It takes much more time bevor you can start the print.
The other possibility is to mod the hardware.
I am no electrician, but a thinner “wire”, lets the bed go hotter, that is not what we need, we need a longer wire that covers more surface.
But longer wire could lead to lower temperature if the power supply does not change.
I wont say more because i dont know that stuff for sure.
So wjere do we get that modded bed?
Ask an electric engeneer and he would tell you instandly. What you need to do.
Assuming this is true, isn’t it rather weird that PLA would be having an adhesion problem? Probably most people print PLA at 65C or less.
In which case maybe additional factors are contributing to the PLA adhesion problem? I’m no expert on this, so anyone with any insight please jump in. I’m thinking: maybe the build surface isn’t flat? Maybe the build plate surface coating is dodgy? I’ve tried enough different PEI build plates over the years to know that some work a lot better than others, even though they all claim to be PEI build plates. So, maybe there was a defect in how the build plates were manufactured? I’m spitballing this. It’s not all going to be gold. Slapping on a “known good” build plate would be an easy way to quickly test this hypothesis. I’d be relieved if it were that simple.
I dont think anyone can answer you this. Specialy not that early.
I am sure if you tweak some settings and specialy dong rush the print and let the bed do some heating circles even in extreme cases there wont be a problem. You also can use glue on the bed so your supports dont break or dont use tree supports.
I dont think we should make a big problem out of that. The printer seems to work fine and more importent very precise.
This is only something “that could be better”, nothing that has to be better or corrected.
It makes sense seeing that in the German review it was noted that besides the nonuniformity, the actual temperature was significantly lower than what the unit was reporting.
Well, this is potentially good news. It’s far easier to add a temperature offset than it is to improve uniformity or other things. By pointing this out, you may have solved it.
Other brands are slowing down the bed heating for uniformity. But you kinda gave it away when you said its still off by 7c(likely to be the 10c reported) at 100c. This tells me that you guys heating the bed too fast has nothing to do with it in this case. But more to do with the element you went with. I guess, just dont use the surrounding 50mm or the center right of the bed.
Pretty sure someone said they still werent able to print pc. I called clough out for only comparing 1 or 2 color prints and only using cf fill. A true test would be glossy pla to show quality results and adhesion. Atleast some matte pla or petg hf…Something people have trouble with. This is why when i did my k2 review, i did mostly non cf engineering materials. Pc, abs, asa, petg hf, on the same bed using print by part. And printed triangular kit kats that had minimal bed to part surface. And didnt use glue
Maybe start by lower the wattage during heat up…Then I can also run more than 1 printer at a time on that circuit.
On enclosed printers that dont need the door left open, I print at 55c for pla. So if this printer is reporting an extra 10c, its not an awrsome fix to just crank up temp.
I found a bunch of weirdeness across the review videos. Anybody seen anybody test the 40w llaser yet? For the full flagship
Glad i have my plus 4 still lol. Qidi box incoming.
we need someone that spends alot of time printing, to actually test this beast correctly
hi chris, i am 1973,
the temperature BL wrote was 100 Degree Celsius, ( thats meaning of the big C !) not Kelvin.
So 7% is right. No recalculate.
But it dosen´t mater. They build in a cheap waterboiler element in the printer to reach the break even faster.
My old Tronxy was on this level.
You guys are worried about the wrong thing… So far… at least for me, the amperage draw is the bigger problem. If your printer is on anything other than a low use circuit… your gonna be making lots of trips to the breaker. I’m getting the flickering lights while the printer is in the initial heat up stage. And yes… it feels lighting fast to 70C, or at least much quicker than I expect. But I have yet to have an adhesion issue (though I’ve only done a few quick prints in PETG, TPU and PLA).
Personally, I say wait and try it for yourself and see if it is an issue for you. Like it was stated previously, I think there may be other factors at play with the YouTube crowd. BTW, when I look at it on my thermal monocular, it has a similar distribution to some other printers I’ve seen. Hot in the middle, and cooler toward the edges. Time will tell if it is a real issue.
The flickering can be fixed if they let us access the firmware. But its dependent on your power source frequency. Popped breakers are going to be a thing though unless we run it on the 40amp dryer circuit.
Please post pics of your prints, if you get the chance. Somewhere on the forum. Im super jealous. Cannot wait to see some multicolor stuff and hear about real world experience while I wait
