It’s a feature, not a bug! It means your build plate will heat up faster. And I’d wager it’s at maximum only for a minute or less at the very start of the warming up the heated bed. The X1C is front-loaded that way, although it draws only about 25% as much peak wattage.
I wouildn’t be surprised if Bambu later added some kind of soft-start feature. That’s all easily solvable, so I’m not worried about that aspect at all.
Until the fix comes, just make sure you shut everything else on that circuit off. Crappy for me because I have a ton of stuff on that circuit. Right now, I can run 4 or 5 other printers, 2 high end pc’s, tv, high power onkyo receiver etc at the same time with no issues. The plus 4 caused flickering until I fixed it in klipper. Probably dont want to be drying in an ams while heating the bed either.
They ignored the 80% rule
If it becomes a problem for your particular situation you can buy a suitable double conversion UPS so that the rest of the circuit doesn’t feel the load when it comes on strong, and as a bonus you can power your way through any brownouts or blackouts with ease. If you haven’t looked lately, they became quite inexpensive thanks to the freefall in LiFePo4 AV battery prices. 
This is another point of contention for me. The drying is basically an overnight affair. Since you can’t dry when you are printing, you are forced to do it when the printer is idle. It isn’t automatic in anyway. Actually, you have to go looking to figure out how to kick off the drying. Not terribly intuitive (but not difficult to find either). I’m finding there are plenty of those little annoyances that tug at you. Nothing deal breaking (at least for most, but the TPU thing might be close for some).
In his AMA last night, Joel the 3D Printing Nerd said that when he and the other youtubers first received thier H2D printers, this worked. However, after the firmware update, that ability was disabled.
I don’t know whether that gives you any hope or not, but maybe.
Yeah, I saw that. It makes sense that it could cause deformation of the filament before it gets in the printer. So, if they bring it back it will be neutered down a lot, maybe 40C-45C limit when printing. Not to mention, I’m not sure there’s room on the average American circuit to do both (print and dry).
Worth considering: According to the official H2D specs,
“To ensure the heatbed quickly reaches the needed temperature, the printer will maintain maximum power for no more than 3 minutes.”
So, it’s feasible, but it’s academic. Probably someone who decides priorities whittled down the work-in-progress feature set to meet the launch deadline.
Why should you dry while printing? That makes no sense to me. You heat up the ams, and than you want to print with the heated filaments? That does not sound like a good idea…
I have a 16 amp fuse for my gaming room, so a maximum of 3680 watts i can pull out of the power plug.
The only issure i had until now was the first time i powered on my newly build gaming computer because the power supply was brand new so the room went dark.
Putting back up the fuse switch and everything worked fine. Never had a problem again.
Okay i had once as friends came over with similar gaming computers and we put 4 computers on that fuse…
Yea… was not thinking…
The computers power supply goes for maximum 1200 watts…
So it should be okay to have 1 H2D and my computer plus 2 screens and lights on that 16 amp fuse.
2200 watts H2D plus 1200 watts the PC are 3400 watts the screens and lights dont need much power.
Also all components would need to go to full power at the same time so that i pull the 3400 to 3600 watts out of the power plug.
Actively drying filaments like for example PA(Nylon) or pure PC is highly recommended due to them being supremely hygroscopic. Takes less than an hour for PA to draw up to a couple of grams of water.
Your PC also isn’t using 1200W just cause the PSU says that’s its maximum, not even on a first boot when new. You’re confusing things.
That is not how science works…
I know drying filaments is importent, but while drying you should not try to print.
Emagine a heated filament up to 65 degree Celsius starts making its way to the nozzle. Not sure that is a good idea. Never tried that.
And no, my Computer also has a safety value on the needed watts, but the overlocked 12 core ryzen, and the RTX 4090 also overclocked need some watts to work. All the 13 fans in combination with 3× 360 radiators and 2× 470 ml water pumps add to that amount of power needed. It also takes some power to push 1500 liters/hour througth your cooling system.
And often when i installed a new power unit above 1000 watts, the lighs gone out. Does not matter if it was at a friends house or at my gaming room.
So my conclusion was that the first time you power up the new unit there has to be some power peak. I am not that good with electro stuff, i just can tell you how it is.
And as i sayed, it is the theoretical max power of 1200 watts, if i would realy need that amount, i would have to at least get a 1500 watt power supply. So no, that much power is not needed for the computer, but if you calculate the values, better ad that amount to the needed watts of the H2D, where you also ad the max theoretical power to your calculation.
Please read up on the materials I’m talking about, 65° is nothing that will affect them in the slightest.
What you’re talking about with your PC is roughly 800W including monitors. Don’t believe me? Plug a power meter in between.
If you say so, that it is no problem to feed a preheated filament wire to the the nozzle i have to beleve you, because i dont know better!
It just somehow felt not right feeding a heated filament wire to the nozzle because it gets softer with higher temperature compared to room temperature.
Still waiting for my first 3D printer.
I think you are about right with the watts, i only calculated them as i put the computer together. And this without the overclock. Sure i addad all max watts of the components together to get the right power unit. As i remember it was above 850 watts, but i am not sure anymore.
So you are for sure not to far apart whith your guess.
So if it says the peak watts of the H2D are 2200 Watts, i think they also put some tolerance value to that declaration, dont you think? (I realy dont know, but i would do that)
But we still calculate with that value they tell us.
Also as far as i know, they only need that amount of power because they heat the bed that fast.
If you would not heat the bed that fast, you would not need that much power.
Still, fast heating up is a selling point, and physics work that way, that you need power for fast heating.
It is nothing anyone can change.
If they would heat the bed slower, they would not need that much power. To reach the needed temperature.
As the reviewers said, some added additional 10C celsius to there bed temperature. Because the value that the sensor told was that off.
Could it be that the sensor position is not optimal?
Is it the same as in there other printers, or did they change that position?
Never heard about changing bed temperature settings manualy for the other bambu printers when working with bambu filaments.
Can somone answer if they had to set other bed temperatures with there A1, or P1, X1, while working with bambu filaments and RFID chips?
The second question, if they changed the sensor position, only can be answerd when a tinker, that lookes closer at the hardware gets his/her H2D and is willing looking that up.
I often dry while printing with my P1. It saves time. Pull it out of the wrapper at a relative humidity of 25% and start printing while its drying. Or if I have a TPU that has been sealed up in a vacuum bag for 2-3 months I’ll start drying and printing at the same time. Never had a jam, or any significant clogs while doing that, honestly, and I rarely open up the printer when printing PLA and TPU. But I’ve recently started cracking the door with TPU, but that is more insurance. When I print PAs, I always print while drying. They suck up moisture quite fast.
As it stands, you now need to have a standalone dryer if you need to prep materials while printing something else. I understand the limitations but honestly the AMS dryer isn’t that useful. Currently you have to start it from the printer’s LCD, so you can’t do it remotely (at least as of now). You can’t do it while you’re printing something else (even a different filament). It doesn’t allow you to dry PLA at 45C or higher (likely a bug). And will ask you to remove rolls before it starts drying to keep you from deforming rolls of low temp materials. It’s kinda like a great fix (I do like the idea) that created more problems than it solved.
Europeans definitely got that spec right. In the States, we are on 110/120-volt circuits. So, the printer’s max draw of 13+ amps is 86% of the circuit’s handling capability (15-amp circuit x 110/120 volts = 1650/1800 watts).
BTW… not a single adhesion issue so far. Cleaned bed has stuck everything thrown at it so far. I did have a square part warp by a few thousands of an inch (.005 - .010 in) for about 1mm, but again, that’s a non-issue.
Glad to hear it. For now, the best we can do is pool our information and look for patterns. To that end, which filaments (type and brand) have you tried on it? We can maybe start a list of “known good filaments,” for now, and maybe a list of “suspected problem filaments” if anyone reports back with one. I’m hoping that at least one of the youtubers who reported a problem will circle back to this topic and say exactly which filaments gave them problems, if and when they later do a more thorough review on the H2D.
“Data. Data. Data. I cannot make bricks without clay,” said Sherlock Holmes.
Bambu PLA Matte PLA and Elegoo Matte PLA, Elegoo Rapid PETG, and Bambu 95A HF TPU. All good so far. Got some ABS GF loaded up as well but haven’t used it.
Might try the Prusa 70-degree overhang test. Did a model with 60 degrees and it did that absolutely flawless (with variable layer heights). But I’m not seeing perfect prints every time. I want to give it more models before judging it though.
Did you feed the TPU from external spool? Any problems?
and if you can, vary the location on the heated bed that you print over, to increase the odds of finding a bad spot if there is one.
The best test prints would be ones that are likely candidates for warping, on the theory that the proximate cause of the adhesion problem (if there is one) is warping. For me those generally tend to be very large prints or else prints with long narrow footprints and sharp corners. i.e. even if there is a problem, you likely wouldn’t find it if you’re printing only small maker’s coins.
Yeah, I’m feeding from a PolyDryer box. But 95A isn’t terribly picky on the old printers, so I don’t think it is on this one either. I do have some 90A the send through it. But haven’t opened it yet.
Going to print those shoes?