I’m using both white and grey eSun PETG, which seemed to print just fine with the generic bambulab slicer PETG settings when printing on my X1C with a 0.4mm nozzle, but I’m getting heavy stringing from the exact same filaments now that I’ve changed my X1C over to Bambulab’s 0.6mm nozzle and again using the bambulab slicer generic PETG settings applicable to the 0.6mm nozzle.
What to do?
For starters, I tried looking for a PETG temperature tower, but they all seem to either be written for either a 0.4mm nozzle or else sliced for some other kind of machine like a Prusa MK3. In the later case, I’m assuming I should avoid any such gcode that isn’t compiled specifically for an X1 machine?
Try drying the filament. Stringy PETG is often caused by wet filament.
Yes, that was my first thought as well, so I dried the white PETG for 12 hours at 65C in a PrintDry dehydrator… End result: No real difference. Then today I opened up a fresh roll of grey PETG that was just delivered yesterday by amazon, and the same result. The fact that the white PETG was fine just a day earlier when I was still using the 0.4mm nozzle leads me to think it’s a settings issue rather than a moisture issue.
Reporting back: rather than wait any longer for answers that may never come, I took a 0.4mm nozzle PLA temperature tower (Temp tower PLA, PETG, ABS by krpavlu - Thingiverse) and recast it to work as a 0.6mm nozzle PETG temperature tower (240-215C in 5C steps) by truncating some of the higher, dubious levels and inserting custom g-code, on a rough-and-ready basis.
I posted the above temp tower as a remix on thingiverse: Bambulab X1C 0.6mm nozzle Sunlu grey PETG by WhiteHare - Thingiverse
The temp tower seems to indicate that higher temps lead to less stringing, which is the opposite of what I would have guessed…
Also, I found this thread, which appears to confirm this, and which appears to have a lot of useful information regarding stringing: Help with PETG Woes - Beard effect
I used to print PETG at 255-260 on my X1. I found when destroying a temp tower, 250 and below resulted in brittle parts. At 255-260 it’s almost impossible to break, it just bends and twists.
I just now installed Orca Slicer, and as it turns out I could have saved myself a lot of effort by simply installing Orca Slicer and letting it automatically generate a temperature tower that’s a match for both my nozzle and my filament type.
I’ll notate my thingiverse remix so that others become aware of this also.
1 Like
