My X1C should be here any minute 
(and a second AMS but the hub is not available yet. 
)
I have 2 Prusas that have been good to me (MMU2 not so much). Tired of the upgrade path and just want to print. Hobby/ Prototyping is me.
I am used to is heated bed PLA printing. I keep seeing the cool plate for PLA? Advice? I use Layerneer for all prints and have not had a fail since. Works great even on textured sheets. Layerneer needs a heated bed though.
Any advice on that or the Prusa the migration?
I am so nervous about the box coming ripped, dented, smushed, gouged or torn⌠Not that unusual with FedEx or UPS.
The AMS hub is back in stock, just got mine yesterday.
us.store.bambulab.com/products/ams-hub
The main thing to know is no snacks will be provided. Donât go digging around in that box for any gummies, you wonât find them brother.
Seriously, the main thing I see on the forum from people swapping to Bambu is they open the printer and start fiddling with it⌠like trying to tram the bed and whatnot. 99% of the time the printer is going to do everything for you.
Also in the meantime you can print a Y splitter as the AMS hub is literally just a buffer with a build in Y splitter.
This, this, this.
Leave the thing alone. Just fight the urge to tinker. It doesnât need it. Run calibration and then print some things. Sit back, relax.
And donât tinker.
I donât know if I can resist⌠not even âCalibrate first layer???â.
HOLY SHIRTBALLS! Itâs going full Alien in the calibration routine. Hahaha.
I can use that splitter for non AMS compatible TPU? And any reason I shouldnât print it out of TPU?
You can print it out of TPU, should be better because with mine it can sometimes slip out after a while. I am not sure about using it for non AMS compatible TPU though.
You can hook up the 2nd AMS with a splitter, you donât need a hub.
You donât need to use the cool plate, in fact I suspect even the X1 now might ship with PEI.
Whatever problem you have with your new X1 (if any), the solution is NOT to tram the bed. If Iâm limited to one universal fix for new users, Iâd say open the door when printing PLA. If I get 2 Iâd say if your models look funny on one side turn off the AUX fan.
And if it hasnât arrived yet, try to figure out if the door is broken before you take it out of the box. If it is, donât. Just contact support for a replacement and donât let them bully you into trying to replace the door. The serial number is also on the outside of the box.
This was the hardest thing for me - I came from running a Flashforge Creator 2 farm and part of my work day was checking each printer in the morning to make sure something hadnât fallen off
Now I just do maintenance sweeps once a week
Takes time to get out of the habit
Hardly, mine arrived unable to read the bed the height. Numerous âfailure to readâ faults. I adjusted the tramming, which was way off from factory, and then released all the bed screws as instructed by the painfully slow support process (I think designed to run you over the 14 day period) â itâs still having issues if I try to print more than three items successively.
I guess if you âluck outâ youâre golden, otherwise itâs as painful as eveything else coming from China. At least Prusa support is gold standard.
Iâll give Prusa that. Support is pretty awesome. They even help a bit if it is out of their purview when modding.
However as any company grows, they add support people who can only follow a script and are kept from deviating from the script.
To be fair you donât usually get to talk to the engineers. I was âtheâ engineer forced to do tech support as well. Small companies operate a bit different. As they grow tech support brings them to their knees especially if they make after market electronics for a sizable selection of appliances and built success on customer service. Interrupting the engineer trying to dev new products tends to drive them a bit mad, 
Hi Mors, welcome!
Iâm sorry you are still having problems with your unit. Iâm a bit curious, when you write:
can you tell me how you established the tramming was off from the factory?
When I purchased the second AMS they redirected to and said I needed the hub. Cornfused. 
The hub is literally just a splitter in front of a normal buffer and people have reported that using a splitter is more reliable than the hub. The hub is certainly more compact, itâs not a wrong choice, but it is no improvement other than that.
Maybe âway offâ was a tad harsh. But when I ran the tramming g-code and used a 0.4mm feeler gauge the rear spot was too tight to slip a gauge under, the left corner you could sweep the gauge under with ease and the right corner was about spot on. The next thing was to slacken and tighten all the bed screws.
Ultimately, I think it might be a dry or bad joint in the bed as it prints the first few items flawlessly, then starts to take longer to mesh level, then fails. Support is just a bit slow, you can wait days for a response.
I think that isnât entirely true. The electronics board contains a bunch more components. I think, it has a sensor for each input to detect filament. No idea what is the benefit though.
You are correct and yes, âliterally justâ was not the right word choice. âfunctionally justâ would have been better.
