So I tried out the Bambu PAHT-CF that came with the printer and this was the top layer finish (no ironing)
Any idea what caused this? All models I see on the Bambu website look amazing using this filament. I’m just glad I didn’t buy a spool and wait 6 hours to see this result… yet another print I’ve done that has led to wastage
looks like partly underextrusion…? which filament profile? automatic flow calibration? which nozzle ( 0,6 recommended) looks also like there is not enough top layer for the infill…
even if most BL profiles for normal filaments work well CF Filaments needs some special attention
I already mention I’m using the Bambu PAHT-CF? and I guess it would be using default profile for that filament after picking up the NFC tag
sorry…had a coffee and had some more thoughts about your problem…so…which nozzle…and which printing profile…
Just standard 0.4 nozzle that came with the printer. I didn’t change anything profile wise, ran with Bambu default for their own filament and yeah I had flow calibration ticked
Did you dry it before you used it?
Only in the sun for about 2 hours
PA-CF 0,6mm nozzle…drying highly recommended as nylon is hydroscopic and we talk about drying in a filament dryer or in the printer itself…and no AMS for abrasive filaments…cause more probs than it solve…best would be to print it direct off a heated dryer.
its a joke that the P1P owner get a sample of PA-CF and the structured PEI and me as invest 1700€ for the X1C with AMS only got PLA-CF and a f**king cold plate
What I don’t understand is this is the other part of it and it’s perfect
That was a vertical side, the original picture was a horizontal part. Do you think it’s a top layer issue in that case?
is that nice printed part printed before the fail part? and how many top laers you had…the 2nd part is printed vertical…and the fail horizontally…so much more top layer visible…
Yes first picture is printed horizontal, second is printed vertical. I was using 4 top layers. Oh and I have an X1C btw the way
so on the vertical print you have barely a top layer…that are all walls…3-4 walls? try more toplayer…but it still looks like inconsistency in the extrusion…and such is much more visible on top layers than in walls where the next layer wall hide the imperfections…on your fail print you can even see the infill under it…
Yeah and this is the problem I’ve had ever since I bought the printer, inconsistency in extrusion. Nearly everything I print has some sort of issue, holes in the walls, bad top layers, visible seams. Nothing I print comes out as it should and customer service don’t seem to care
if u have it since you bought it…and with for example bambu PLA with the bambu profiles there might be some obstrusions in the hotend…guess you have a 2nd hotend? change it and try it again…or use orca slicer with the bambu plugin and try to dial in one filament with the calibration prints that are build in
yeah I’ve swapped the hotend out a couple weeks ago and it didn’t make any difference! I was saying in another thread we shouldn’t have to be seeking 3rd party solutions for a printer that cost this much imo
we had the same issue with a roll at my work, i did a manual flow calibration and it seemed like the default flow was way to high
I printed a lot of pa cf and petg cf and there must be a problem where small cf parts stay inside the nozzle. They causing clogged nozzle too.
You can see if you print pla after it and small pieces of cf come out.
Is there briding over infill under the surface causing the problem? I think you need more top layers or better infill, this looks like infill defect that was insufficiently covered by the top layers.
I found it better to print at the default nozzle layer height for GF and CF materials.
Infill I generally use gyroid. It provides reasonable support points for the top layer at the lower infill density like 10%.
I would also recommend changing the default overhang and bridging speed, which will help dramatically. It seems the default speed is still too high for reliable and good-looking overhangs and bridging.
I tested with over 30 different types of filament and 0.4/0.6 nozzles.
I use the bridging speed of 10mm/s
0-15% 10mm/s
15-25% 15mm/s
25-50% 20mm/s
50-100% I leave it 0.
Calibrating your filament flow rate and pressure advance with an orca slicer and creating a profile gives you much better prints and dimension accuracy.
Most filament 220C is a good printing temp, for silk and shine, you need to increase it to 230, and lower MVR.
I use the Bambu silk profile as base and modify calibrated value then save accordingly.
