Whats the point of .6 .8 nozzles

The X1C uses a custom hotend, it is not included in this list.

I’m not finding it on their website now but I think Bambu was stating 33 mm3/s with their hotend using ABS.

Just for comparison, with a V6 hotend I was able to get like 10-13 mm3/s with a standard 0.4 nozzle and 15-20 with a 0.6 nozzle. I got around 28 mm3/s with an AliExpress 0.6 CHT nozzle on a V6

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Great info. Very cool.

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PC shows max speed 120mm/s, will a 0.8mm nozzle double speed compared to 0.4?

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Got maximum of 35mm³/s with an oiginal CHT nozzle 0.4mmn , the heater is the bottlneck, it cant sustain more than 215/220° with this flow, but someone on another thread have tried with two heater and seems it worked (he just wired them in parralele).

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Flow and Layer Height.

Tall bulky objects benefit greatly from large layer heights. 0.4 nozzles start to fall apart above 0.28mm layer height. bigger nozzle, bigger layer height ratios keep working. 0.8 can pull off 0.6 layer height easily.

ALSO some filaments are speed limited so you can get a ton more flow given the same speeds if layer lines don’t bother you.

Its really only a concern if you want to push out lots of chunky parts.

also fiber filaments often plug up 0.4 nozzles.

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I’m still not understanding the difference between going 0.8 to 0.6. Bambu recommended 0.6 to me. I was getting ready to order 0.8

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Also consider the nozzle size is disproportional to print precision; the larger the nozzle diameter, the less precise the print in the x-y plane. Fitted features will be effected.

-Uman

my prints for most part dont need precision, i wish there was a way to specify precision in 1-2 spots but not sure how

Using 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle will have few benefit using bambulab original nozzles, you.may be interrested in upgrading to a better nozzle (CHT clones)

Have a look to this thread : First Benchy printed with Bambulab X1 & CHT Nozzle

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Reduce the outer perimeter bead width to
Improve precision with a larger nozzle.

Cheers
-Uman

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well that are several reasons and factors…
but for example.
.4 nozzle base line is .2mm first layer and .2mm for layers after using .2mm setting
.6 nozzle base line is .3mm first layer and .3mm for layers after using .3mm setting
.8 nozzle base line is .4mm first layer and .4mm for layers after using .4mm setting

larger nozzle will print faster but you do lose detail, so on certain things speed may be something you want over appearance… there is a little more to it but that is the main reason to do so

also some types of filament and prints it a benefit to print with thicker layer…lot of variables.

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While it is true on most printers, the speed improvement on Bambu Lab printer is not that much using 0.6 nozzle and 0.4 layer height, due to its limitation in flow rate. Yes it can print 0.4 layers with 0.6mm nozzle, but it will print it so slowly that the overall print will not be a lot faster.

I think Bambulab have been thinked to print fast and well with 0.4mm and that they did not really study bigger nozzles (It is clear when you compare the number of profile for 0.4mm nozzle and the number of profile for 0.6mm nozzle).

The only way, I found to really get advantage of a 0.6 nozzle is to use a nozzle with a higher flowrate (AKA CHT nozzle).

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^^^^^THIS

That (.4mm) was their primary focus I’ll wager.

The larger nozzles and filaments will need to be tuned by the user. Either printing speed, temp, flow, and retraction towers, and/or using the Soft Fever version of BS and their calibration option.

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So, I ran into this old thread while looking for something else…
There’s a lot of speculation and it doesn’t looks like anybody on this thread actually uses a .6 nozzle, but I do. :wink:
I’ll add my 2cts of real experience for anyone reading this thread later by any chance.

TLDR: the default 0.6 profile speeds are way too conservative. Copy the 0.4 profile speeds to the 0.6 one, increase layer thickness, and reduce walls and shells.

Sure, as some suggested, you could spend time tune everything yourself, but the reality is that you don’t have to.

I think you’ll be chocked to learn that the default 0.6 profile speeds are 2 to 4 times slower than the 0.4 profile speeds. :wink:
So, from the 0.4 nozzle profile, go to the Speed tab on the slicer and copy all the values over to the 0.6 profile.

Since you’ll be printing at 0.6 instead of 0.4 you can reduce the number of walls equally. E.g. 3 walls @ 0.4 would get you 1.2mm, so you only need 2 walls @ 0.6 to get the same result.

Same with bottom and top shells: you can probably reduce the number if you print thicker layers, e.g. 0.3 or more, instead of 0.2
Depending on the color and type of filament you might not even be able to really notice the difference in layer thickness. Try it. I bet you’ll find you can increase the layer thickness and your parts will still look awesome.

With that, my typical 180 minutes print only takes 155 minutes for the same visual quality. That’s about 14% time saved.

I’d argue that that’s not nothing for doing the bare minimum effort.
If you only use your printer a few hours a week you probably won’t care, but if you print really a lot I’m sure you’ll appreciate the savings.

(I print exclusively ABS/ASA)

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I run the 0.6 nozzle, its prints fast, and has excellent quality, I’m never going smaller… I print usefull/mechanical parts, not art though.

I think the volumetric flow rate is the determining factor. If you have a fast flowing filament or an upgraded hot-end, update the volumetric flow rate for your filament (after running a max flow test) and you may see reasonable speed improvement.

I ordered a bunch of nozzles, but just don’t have the motivation to test them. If you notice when you simply switch from one profile to the next (0.4 to 0.6mm) the time stays very similar. This is because the volumetric flow rate is the limiting factor. If you check the slicer’s speed when using the 0.6mm nozzle profile, you’ll see the speeds have fallen pretty significantly, basically eroding any gains. This is because when the hole gets bigger, the hot-end is still the limiting factor, so it has to slow down the speed so the hot-end can keep up. I’d assume with a CHT clone or the E3D nozzle, you’ll be able to turn the max flow rate up and keep some of those speed gains while making larger and wider layers. But ultimately, it all depends on the filament you are using and what your hot-end can melt consistently.

Also note, that’s a pretty significant investment in time. You’ll need to run a bunch of tests for each filament to have a similarly consistent setup for larger nozzles. Even conventional Bambu larger nozzles may get some small speed bumps if you spend the time running the max flow tests and updating the volumetric flow in the slicer, but there’s no guarantees. The stock hot-end can only do so much.

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Don’t confuse mm/s Move speeds with mm3/s Volumetric Flow “speeds”

Cubic mm / sec. not mm/sec.

First of all, that’s crazy, but cool.
I’ve heard great things about CHT, and it seems from this thread that Topping out around 30+ mm3 / sec is this range and tech of printers.
33 Bambu to 30 Mosquito Magnum is so excellent for a Commercial printer.

Likely faster melting Filament or much more powerful but light Heaters will need to be invented. Seems like you can only cram so much heat through nozzles in this diameter range.
I wonder what Wattage those Massive Dimension printers are running?

By the way, having looked into this more deeply, and having switched to a 0.6mm nozzle, I can now see that I was wrong in my remarks in the earlier portion of this thread. In the stock configuration with a 0.4mm nozzle, the X1 can already print with quality at the maximum flow rate. Even with a 0.6mm nozzle, you aren’t going to push more plastic than that (again, in a stock configuration, not counting Obxidian or other upgrades that would increase the maximum volumetric flow), and so your prints aren’t going to finish any faster.

The only reason I upgraded to 0.6mm nozzle is because I will soon be printing using PET-CF for a particular project. Once that project is over, I’m going back to a 0.4mm nozzle–well, unless I opt to do Obxidian or similar, which maybe would give the edge to a 0.6mm nozzle for finishing prints faster–though I do wonder whether a 0.4mm Obxidian might be able to increase its speed further than what the limits in the slicer suggest and still be able to print well at even higher speeds and take either full or partial advantage of the increased flow rate. I mean, if it couldn’t, then what could possibly be the point of installing a 0.4mm Obxidian?