I’m confused about the Update Flow Calibration option when sending a print to the printer. When do I want to use it? I’m uncertain when it is best to check this and when it is best not to check it. I do change to different filaments a lot, so I have resorted to always checking it, but I am not certain if this is necessary or not.
Check it anytime you change filament. You’ll get the best results that way.
If you prefer not to calibrate every time, use the calibration tool in Bambu Studio (not Bambu Handy) and create PA Profiles anytime that you have a new roll. You’ll be able to select the profile the next time you print with that filament.
The automatic calibration may show slight deviations in the calibration result. This is therefore not the most optimal method. If you really want the best results, then dry the filament, calibrate it manually and save the result in a profile that you can use again later. Just make sure that the filament is just as dry the next time you use it as it was when you calibrated it.
Follow the calibration instructions that @KanneKaffe provided. Choose the manual option.
How it’s saved after that can be confusing. The first calibration value, flow dynamics aka k-value, is saved in what’s called a PA value (aka Pressure Advance). This remains active as long as the printer is on. If you turn the printer off again, you will need to re-select it on the Device tab. The second calibration value, flow rate, will be saved as a filament profile. The two values aren’t tied to the same filament in that you have to select the filament in the filament list on the Prepare tab AND you have to select the PA Profile on the Device tab.
It’s…complicated.
I wrote a mini guide for a separate problem called “chattering.” At the bottom is an in-depth description of how k-values are stored. If you want to not have to remember to re-select the PA Profile anytime you shut off the printer, I suggest giving it a read as I also take a deeper dive into OrcaSlicer. It’s a fork of Studio and has a superior (in my opinion) method to manage filament values.
No. It’s all done manually. Ideally, you should calibrate every new roll of filament, even if it’s the same colour from the same manufacturer. As long as you saved the profile, you shouldn’t need to recalibrate that roll until you’ve run it out.
There are exceptions where you might need to recalibrate an exisiting profile for a roll.
If you replace the nozzle
If you change the filament’s printing temperator or the max volumetric speed
If you dry the filament after you’ve greated the profile
Whenever you notice issues that can’t be explained by any other means other than maybe the calibration is off (can happen, especially when choosing values manually).
If you haven’t done the manual calibration, leave it checked. If you have done the manual calibration and have the k value set in the filament menu, you can uncheck it.
I usually just leave it on. I change filament so much.
It wont hurt anything, just takes longer to get printing
I usually look at quality not quantity. Ya some prints take along time but if it turns out well the. The time was worth it. Less rework or reprint (if any)
How does this work with the AMS? Does it remember the auto calibration values from previous print as long as the AMS filaments are not changed? Or do I need to run the auto calibration each time i’m selecting another filament already in the AMS, that has already been calibrated?