So, I have looked it up but seem to find mixed reviews.
Which glue/adhesives has everyone found to work the best for them for PLA and PETG? I do print in ABS as well.
The comment glue brought up is CA/Super Glue but again it seems to be mixed on its strength/durability. Also, what are people using for activator that wont cause issues with the model?
TIA
CA Glue is great all around. Especially a high quality CA40 from a good brand like 3M.
I have never had the need for an activator. Roughing the surface with some sand paper seems to work the best. No need to overcomplicate it.
Just avoid “gel” glues if you don’t want issues on parts with tight tolerances.
Nothing bears Nano Polymer Adhesive! About $40 on Amazon. Made in the USA and a coating seems to last me through the next bed washing.
I’ll 2nd @CincinnatiDesigns, I only really use super glue/CA glue/Cyanoacrylate for bonding printed parts. Surface prep and contact area are super important for strong bonds. Take the time to make sure the contact surfaces have been sanded, smoothed, and clean before gluing if you are wanting the best results. While parts can be handled within a short amount of time, CA actually takes up to 24 hours to fully cure.
I think they are referring to assembly glue, not a bed adhesive.
Correct, I was talking about assembly not bed adhesion.
“Kraftprotz”, ASIN: B0CBSGWZRW
Geleous CA hardening within 1 to 3 Minutes: Fast enough not to have to mess around with clamps but slow enough for slight adjustments. Hardens without access to air humidity/activator (albeit slightly slower).
Also available in its low viscosity variant for tighter fits, but I haven"t used that myself.
“I think they are referring to assembly glue, not a bed adhesive.”
Yes, lol. I should have read that better. E6000 works for me for gluing plastic parts, but that’s an over-night curing. Gelled Super Glue from Loctite is my go-to parts glue.
I use KRAFTPROTZ; it’s an instant superglue. I have been testing this for a while now, and its the dogs dangly bits. Very powerfull, its suggested to use it while wearing gloves. I glued 2 parts together, left it for about an hour, and tried to break it. It did break, but not at the part I glued. It’s not expensive either. I am in Europe, so I don’t know if you can get it in the USA.
I have gotten two bottles of this since December and it is really good super glue!
I have started to use this. I got fed up with glue sticking my fingers together lol.
The price for it is cheap compared to some other gel glues. To me it is a good gel glue, so fewer sticky fingers lol.
Really? lol I didn’t think it was that sticky but maybe I didn’t get it on my flangies.
I found something that works even better; the BQ build plates. They are so good, you need a scraper to get the extrusion patterns off the bed. On the X1C, I printed a skinny tall part on a thin tapering edge without a brim. Of course I think the tree support on that tapered edge helped a lot. It can be hard to get the parts off a BQ plate.
I have them, but I never used them. I did try with a tall print at an angle, and it came loose. I then did the original Bambu Texture plate with spray on 3D Lac, and it worked ok doing that way.
So I just use Bambu Texture, or if I need it smooth, I use Bambu Smooth Plate or plates like carbon fiber plates like that.
I’m trying to glue to PLA pieces together and the Alecpea 3D printing glue I have (seems it’s superglue) doesn’t hold at all, is this stuff going to work on silk PLA?
Tip from traditional model making:
Bicarbonate of soda makes superglue stick better.
Too tired to explain why but see internet. Or if you are a cook that knows how to breadcrumb food the traditional french way (flour, egg, breadcrumb) you will instantly get it.
