I’ve had good luck with Devil Design brand (popular in EU, but I haven’t seen it elsewhere).
I’ve used modified Basic PETG profile:
When printing really slow (e.g. in vase mode with all speeds capped at 40mm/s) I drop temperatures another 5C
Never use PETG from OWL. Very poor quality, very irregular diameters. Both nozzles blocked just after a few minutes …
I’m using PETG spools from ARIANEPLAST : Filament 3D PETG - Polyethylene Terephthalate 3D filament - Ariane plast
Random example :
I have to correct / put into perspective my assessment of OWL products. Possibly one reel was an exception, but with a little quality control it should not have been sold (see picture of the red spool).
Now I have tested the white spool from the same delivery - there is nothing to complain about. It is interesting that the ideal temperature at standard speed deviates far below the “Generic PETG” setting recommended by BL. 220° and 225° C. both look very good.
Worth mentioning: Price per kilo: EUR 12,50
OWL is hit and miss. I have ~10kg PLA from them here and most is very usable but some have defects like yours.
I used PETG from Sunlu, Basicfil, TecBears, Eryone, AmazonBasics, Eono and have ordered some from Inkrayon yesterday on ebay.
All good so far, the stock profile works perfect.
I’m following this thread with interest. Currently I have 3 Prusa printers and print approx. 95% PETG. My preferred brands are Polymaker, Printed Solid Jessie, and Prusament. I’ve got an X1C/AMS combo that should be arriving at the end of this week and I’m very hopeful I’ll find just as much success printing my preferred PETG brands on it.
Esun is perfekt i buy 10kg for nuts!
Alright, just got my X1C, Generic PETG settings sucked, no adhesion on Engineering plate with glue.
Using Overture White PETG that has been in air for weeks.
These settings adhere real nice to the bed, material and part settings.
0.20mm Standard @BBL X1C - OverturePETGMaterialSuppport.json - Google Drive, Generic PETG - Overture.json - Google Drive
Material changes Summary:
Nozzle initial temp 255, other 250
Vitrified temp: 80C
Bed temp 80C
initial fan 0% for 3 layers, other 25%
print settings, initial layer is 0.2mm (default)
First layer speed: 50 mm/s
First layer infill: 80 mm/s
The rest are default speeds
pic PETG 1 is the orginal settings, FAIL
Seams are still a little hollow in some spots.
I like Overture because the cardboard rolls are easy to break for easy transfer to X1C AMS.
Hope these work for you guys! Good luck
Damn I ordered some XPEG. What exactly is the bad thing about it?
which noozle is that? I assume 0.4 with 20mm layer height?
I use PETG almost exclusively. My favorite is Hatchbox. It prints beautifully using the default ‘generic PETG’ profile. I just did one of the ‘torture test’ prints, just amazing. No stringing, no blobbing, a 3 inch unsupported bridge, perfect. An unsupported arch, perfect up to about 85 degrees, then some junk on the underside, but could be easily removed. I did this on the engineering plate, and yes, glue-stick is mandatory. This is really one amazing printer.
Could you show an example. I am using Inland petg+ and black was printing fine and then I switched to the white and it went horrible. I am on my 6th try already.
Even if two filaments are the same type and are from the same manufacturer, different colors mean the filament composition is different. Which is why I now run the OrcaSlicer calibrations on every new filament or color I use.
The results are usually better than using any of the Bambu presets and even many of the manufacturer recommendations. Bambu suggests print temperatures of 220-270º (a bit vague?) for generic PETG, Sunlu says 220-250°C. I tried 240º and 250º for my first PETG prints, resulting in a mess of strings, blobs, and lost adhesion. A single simple calibration print showed that 260º was by far the best option for red in my particular machine. Further calibration for flow ratio fine-tuned the settings, and the strings, blobs and adhesion issues were all gone.
I had similar adhesion and stringing issues using Bambu generic settings for TPU, but calibration quickly isolated the correct settings.
I can also turn off the auto-calibration before each print which saves 5-6 minutes every time.
In the long run, taking the time to calibrate each new filament and color saves time and material.
Thanks. I have been reading as much today. How do you do the calibration in orca? I have installed it now,
What calibration are you using and what print?
I used a temperature tower from Thingiverse initially, before I discovered Orcaslicer (then known as the Softfeverfork).
Now I just use start at the top of the Calibration options with flow rate, then pressure advance, then the temp tower. I’m not sure if there is a better sequence, but my results are much improved. I’ve not yet tried the other options. For directions, look at Calibration · SoftFever/OrcaSlicer Wiki · GitHub, or
Bambu calibrations with SoftFever Bambu slicer - YouTube
Thanks for the tips. I am in the process of doing pass2 for flow rate but pass1 did not even print the numbers yet most of the blocks were perfect or close to it. Here are some pics of the issues I have been having.
Am on my tenth reel of Sunlu PETG and to date have yet to have any problems printing with it. Testament to filament and P1P! I use the Sun PETG settings saved within the ARC enclosure 3mf.
Sunlu PETG at temp 255 and bed at 80c on a P1P…sticks so well to the bed I have to wait until the PEI plate cools to be able to remove it. Have used about 10 reels at these settings with some rather complex models and 35 degree overhangs and to date have had nothing but perfect success. I am running the hardened head and the upgraded filament gears in the head unit and full ARC enclosure (although I tend to leave the glass lid off for PLA/PETG.
Thank you for the input. What colors have you tried?
