Please let me know which plate to use for PETG and/or filament, including ABS.
2 Likes
Use the Engineering plate.
2 Likes
User either the (provided) Engineering plate (back side of the cool plate), or the (extra) textured PEI plate (either from the official one from Bambu Shop, either from a 3rd party one from another brand and that could be found on aliexpress)
2 Likes
For PETG specifically:
- Engineering plate with glue stick
- High temp plate with glue stick
- Textured plate without anything
Personally I love textured plate and have not printed PETG on any other since the first time I’ve used it: perfect first layer adhesion and later amazingly easy print removal: I printed a 200x200x16mm tray yesterday and after giving the plate about 2 minutes to cool down I was able to remove it cleanly by simply grabbing a corner with 2 fingers and plate with 2 fingers.
9 Likes
Thank you, I will have to try the Engineering plate.
Where do we place feature request?
I would like to be able to add custom filaments to the plates so that I do not get the pop up stating that this filament isn’t allowed on this plate. Because all I use is the engineering plates for PETG.
1 Like
You just need to edit the bed temperatures for the engineering plate in the filaments settings. For petg it is defaulting to “0”, which means not supported.
The behavior used indeed to be that one (and it was a bug at slicer level), but it has been corrected in the meanwhile (with Bambu Studio 1.4.X i believe), and now there is no more issues to use engineering plate with PETG.
However, since then, the “cool plate” temperature has been switched to 0 for PETG, as it is not recommended anymore. But can still be manually changed, if someone wants to do it (i had no issue with my PETG + cool plate on my side).
proof :
(this is the “generic PETG” profile, with engineering being available out of the box)
1 Like
Ive been successfully using the textured PEI plate (no glue) with Overture PETG with no issues. I just modified the generic petg profile for the higher temps recommended by Overture.
4 Likes
has anyone ever used the cool plate to print petg? What temperature did you set for the cool plate?
normaly Textured plate
I use the Textured plate - However, with a multi-color print already on the texture plate surface with thin lines, I lower the print speed otherwise i run into trubels - since it should also be in the 2nd layer, I lower the print speed for the whole print… maybe a completely new parameter makes sense: contact points of colors by customizable printing speeds… As we already know when printing overhangs or outer walls and so on.
1 Like
I’ve also printed PETG on the cool plate before I realized it wasn’t recommended. It was a mess trying to remove it. PEI works great though.
For all filaments I use PEI or high temperature plate. The worse cool plate I’ve thrown away. All PLA filaments work fine with higher bed temperature. Anyway for all other filaments you need higher temperature. I like the PEI for nice textures and the high temperature plate for smooth first layer
I did the full progression, but now print PETG (and everything else as well) on garolite. I couldn’t be happier. The only caveat: I’ve been using it for a short time, so I can’t say for sure if it will continue this well in the long term. However, others having been using it longer than me, and as long as they got a good plate in the first place, I’m not aware of it ever wearing out. Maybe someone with a long history of it can comment.
I have a flat plate type print using PETG {flat surface) that must be perfectly smooth. To date, I’ve used the textured plate for everything. But I CANNOT get PETG to print a reasonably glossy smooth flat top surface! This print can be reversed (mirrored) so the bottom is the top (if that makes sense), but the textured finish on the bottom, while pleasing, is just too rough.
I’m currently testing the High Temperature plate (first use). I meticulously cleaned it with Dawn dish detergent and hot water. Everything seems to be sticking okay… I’m just printing straight onto the plate at 80°… I generally let the bed completely cool before trying to remove prints. They have just popped off the Textured Plate with a little “plate flexing”. Hope that’s true for this one…
2 Likes
Update: The High Temperature plate at 80° printed the PETG beautifully! Smooth bottom finish. Used NOTHING but the clean bare plate. After cool, the print popped off just as easily (with some slight flexing) as the Textured Plate.
The Engineering Plate is flip side of the High Temperature. Currently testing the same print on it… 80° also.
1 Like
Why is it that PETG will destructively weld itself to the smooth PEI on the cool plate but , as reported above, will release itself without much effort from the smooth PEI of the high temperature plate?
On the cool plate, the plastic contracts, causing it to adhere to the plate, but when printed on the hot plate, it doesn’t have that initial contraction, and when the hot plate cools the plastic contracts less.
1 Like