You claim to have all these visual defects, but so far I have seen none…
Maybe it is worth investigating if your machine has a defect and send it back to get a good one instead of ranting here?
I started printing after building my own MendelMax 1.5 (reprap from 2013-ish?). This is probably my 7th or 8th printer over the years. I currently also have a Voron v2.4r2 350^3 that I built, and a Tenlog IDEX printer. The latter will be going away here shortly as I have no more use for it. It’s just taking up space now. I’ll tune it up and sell it off. And I’m contemplating doing the same with the Voron… I might then turn around and pick up another X1C or A1 (maybe even mini) with AMS-lite for quick jobs while the X1C is busy. I can honestly say that since the X1C w/AMS arrived not a single day has gone by that it wasn’t printing. The IDEX has seen none, and the Voron only a few jobs.
The X1C competes well on build quality, speed, price and print quality. I used to build my own PCs as well - because I couldn’t get what I wanted ‘off the shelf’. I don’t have to do that anymore… BL has done same thing for 3D printers for me.
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I’m curious what you didn’t like about your voron? Usually the people who own them become nearly evangelical about them, whereas you are the first I’ve encountered who didn’t seem to like it much.
Sorry I didn’t reply sooner I’ve had a lot going on. Thank you for the almost accusational reply though lol. You got me, I’m a sleeper agent troll for another 3D printer company 
So anyway, here is a pic I put together, as you can see the CP2 creates a way stronger X which is basically exactly how it is modelled in the 3D software, where as the X1C just can’t match it for accuracy. The 0.4mm has too much webbing in the centre and the 0.2mm has flared ends.
I’m wondering if I am I expecting too much from x1c benchy. The benchy looks good but the lower half looks different than the upper layer wise, the bottom lettering weren’t as sharp as I expected and the back lettering was unreadable with a couple of minor flaws throughout. Everything is default and the benchy is the supplied one.
It’s not that I don’t like the Voron. Have LOTS of hours of printing on it. It just seems like there’s always something I’m needing to fiddle with it. At this stage I’m more focused on what I need to print more than what do I need to do to the printer. I like the printer, though I wouldn’t do a 350mm^s again. It just takes up so much room. Plus the better half has said she wants to get into it. She’s seen me with the Voron and had no such interest. The Bambu she really likes. Partly why I’m thinking of swapping over to a A1 w/AMS. I admit I haven’t looked to see is Bambu Studio is on the Mac which might stop that process in it’s tracks if not.
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I had a hunch that was the case. The urge to make improvement upgrades is always tugging on me, even with my X1C. There wasn’t much choice when 3D printers weren’t changing much, but the pace of change right now is fast enough that if you wait a bit you can get an entire new printer that works right out of the box with all kinds of upgrades, and all that for probably for less than what you paid for the printer you already have and maybe less than even the cost of just the upgrades you might have planned on.
I started with a ReRap, went to Lulzbot and maker bot. Got couple Creality then the BLX1C. I will say I have never been so impressed. This will only get better, if not someone will will make it better.
Thanks for the pictures.
While seeing what you are talking about accuracy, for me to understand the topic it would be great to have some more detailed information like size/ dimensions of that “X” modell, filament used and some basic settings like speed, temperature, etc.
I think the forum is willing to help here as most of us to not experience big accuracy problems with an X1C.
So maybe we find out if this is on your machine or on settings.
The X is roughly 10mm wide.
Filament on the X1C: Bambu Lab own brand white PLA with standard settings on 0.12mm High Quality profile. Filament kept in the AMS with fresh desiccant. Have also tried lowering temps from standard (220c) to 200c but no difference in output
Filament on the CP2: 3-year-old white Flashforge PLA that’s never been in a dry box is brittle as anything by now and is just left hanging on the back of my machine. Print settings are default FlashPrint 0.12mm Fine preset with temps at 200c.
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I can clearly see the bulging corners on the 0,2mm. I have difficulties to evaluate the other two. The pictures look a bit blurred, maybe the camera did focus on the fabric below?
Anyway a few thoughts that might or might not help:
The 0,2mm result looks like wrong pressure advance value to me. Is that determined automatically by the lidar or do you have it stored in a material profile? If the latter, I think you have to use a dedicated profile for the 0,2mm nozzle, because PA values might be quite different. Lidar might be unable to find correct values with the 0,2mm lines. So I probably would create a new profile using the calibration functions in Orca Slicer to get around both issues.
Independently, I would vastly reduce acceleration for at least inner and outer walls to reduce the need for pressure advance in the first place.
Then for all those prints, which speeds are you using? I regularly forget, that before the X1C, I was used to speeds of 50 mm/s even going down to 30 mm/s for more delicate designs. Now I run most stuff at stock speeds, which would have seemed ridiculous at the time. But as pleased as I am with the results, that speed comes at a cost, which shows mainly in corner resolution. If that is a priority, I would reduce wall speeds to 100 mm/s just as a reference.
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Okay thanks Alex I will give that a try and report back 
I recently got the X1C , had a Qidi ifast before that & what a pile of ■■■■ that was & was alot more $$ than this & everything was manual , no auto bed leveling , no multiple colour filament, etc .
The BL printers are domestic machines, not including the New X1E . Most commercial machines are 5k minimum, heck some are well over 30k … For what we get for the price its pretty amazing. In few years time it be far better & we be complaining that it cant cook for us at the same time lol
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Hi, I’m having similar print quality issues I’m not seeing on my Voron as well. Do you recommend creating a new print profile with only the accel changes or is it possible to just use the speed slider and set it to 50%? I’m also surprised at how the suggested print temps differ from Voron to BL for ABS, I continue to test what I’m used to vs the BL defaults. Thank you for genuinely trying to help.
Also adding on here having Z banding issues which I am just beginning to troubleshoot. I have done the belt tensioning procedure and done the manual flow calibration.
I think, the speed slider reduces both, print speed and accelerations. So it should do the job
For delicate parts, i check all the settings individually for that print.
You could also save print settings for a specific type of objects after adjusting values by saving the project as 3mf file. When you reload it, you have the choice to not only load the model but also the adjusted settings without creating an extra profile. I use that approach for repeating prints, where I want everything to be exactly the same every time, including both, process and filament settings. For different objects but same settings, I just delete the saved object and drag and drop the other.
Or you create the print profile.
Many options available 
Honestly I’m more underwhelmed about the overhyped “AI Micro LiDaR” features… Around month 7 I was completely dissatisfied with the whole thing.
- Can’t perform accurate “down to 7 microns” statement
- Doesn’t calibrate on [textured PEI]
- Replacement parts costs more than it’s worth
- Isn’t nearly utilized like I know it could be and doesn’t seem like it will
If I could go back i’d replace them with P1S’s
Got to admit it does wind me up that you need to put the cool plate back in to do calibration when I use the textured PEI for nearly every print, due to low maintenance. I understand the issue though as the textured surface makes an accurate reading very difficult, if not impossible.
Well, maybe this will wind you back down then: you can do it once per filament in orca slicer, either manual or automatic, save the result in the filament profile, and then you’re done. No need to repeat this for every print you do. Saves times. No need to swap plates.
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Does it work the same with Bambu Studio? I don’t use Orca
That being said it is still an inconvenience as there are factors that can alter the properties of the filament even after you’ve calibrated, ambient temps, filament age etc. So having it do it on-the-fly would be great. I’ve often wondered if they could use the cleaning tower as a way of calibrating on the textured PEI
Beats me. I’ve never looked back.
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