I got my X1 2 weeks ago and started printing with the PLA included in the box (orange). I was able to print the first part of a spool without any problems using the cool-plate with glue-stick. In the meantime I ordered new PLA-filament from Bambu, so I printed the second part of the spool with that filament (Jade White) with exact the same settings, resulting in a warped shape:
The printer is located in a dry basement which has about 17°C, since warping seem to occur when the model cools to fast, I put it in a room with 20°C and increased the hotbed-temperature to 40°C, resulting in a less warped shape, but it’s still not okay:
I was wondering why a filament from the same manufacturer from the same material could behave so differently. Does the color somehow effect this? Both filemants where used only 1-2 days after opening them.
Poor Adhesion: If the printer bed is not properly cleaned, the first layer of the print may not adhere to the bed, causing it to lift.
Bed Leveling: If the bed is not level, the print may not adhere properly and can lift at one corner or more. This likely isn’t the issue since Bambu Lab printers auto level.
Bed Temperature: If the bed temperature is too low, the first layer may not bond well and can lift. On the other hand, if the bed temperature is too high, the material can become too fluid, causing the corners to lift.
Filament: Different filaments have different adhesion properties, and some may be more prone to lifting than others. However, this usually isn’t an issue when switching to a different color of the same filament brand and type (what it sounds like you did).
Speed: If the print speed is too high, the material may not have time to cool and bond to the previous layer, causing the print to lift.
Adding to msinger’s information;
For “Poor Adhesion” some factors can also come down to temperature (as mentioned in the first post and later again in msinger’s), but it sounds like those are handled. If you’re still concerned about this you can try pre-heating the chamber by setting the bed temp manually and blowing the aux fan for 15 minutes or so.
Another factor might be the application of gluestick (this is the one I suspect at a glance). For the bambu coolplate the gluestick actually serves as a release agent and not for additional adhesion. Putting too thick of a gluestick layer can cause trouble, as well as a non-uniform or uneven coat.
Warping is also more common with larger (surface area to build plate), or more dense structures (100% infill). This spool model definitely fits the bill of “lots of build plate surface area”. Depending on the model you can change orientation or the geometry itself to account for this.
In this case there’s nothing you can do about orientation really, but you can try different geometry: https://www.printables.com/model/271329-bambu-x1-re-usable-spool
The model seen on the printables page above can mitigate some warping by removing much of the surface area and density (i’ve had success with this model myself)
I also tend to switch to my “high temp” plate when i’m struggling with warping/adhesion myself. It does great at holding on to prints for stubborn filament or tricky models. I’ve heard folks completely abandoning the coolplate in favor of doing everything on the engineering plate as well. I’ve not tested this, but some swear by it.
This post is getting long, but as my final note I’ll mention that, even with filaments from the same manufacturer, a lot can change in composition from one color to another. Different additives may be necessary for that hue, and you might also find yourself with differences between two spools of the same color by the same company if they recently changed their process or even just variance between batches (think about how buying two PC monitors of the exact same model can sometimes produce slightly different hues/colors out of the box).
Hi and thank you both for the very detailed answers! Seems I still got a lot to learn I will try playing around with glue-stick and temperature. Meanwhile I got my textured plate 2 days ago and was able to print the spool with it without any warping at all. Not sure if it comes down to the higher bed-temperature (used 55°C) or the better adhesion, but it works now.
I will try playing around with glue-stick and temperature. Meanwhile I got my textured plate 2 days ago and was able to print the spool with it without any warping at all. Not sure if it comes down to the higher bed-temperature (used 55°C) or the better adhesion, but it works now.