I did the same print on my October 22 X1CC oem profile with Polymaker polylight ABS.
All the same settings as your printer. Came out just like yours.
My printer seems to perform this task better than i usually expect. I’m only a hobbyist.
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I agree 100% - I do appreciate your trying though.
Continuing on for those that still are having this issue. I’m thinking this is possibly a hardware related issue for those of us having the problem, mainly because when I print the same model from the same slicer (Orca) using the same settings, but on my Voron, the circles are perfect.
I have cleaned and greased the z axis lead screws as well as cleaning and lubricating the Z and Y linear rods and bearings. There was a slight improvement in overall quality, but the holes were still oval on the Z surface.
I recall when I was tuning my Voron 2.4, for input shaping, there was a point where the print started smoothing too much - I’m wondering if this is related. I’m going to go thru the pressure advanced calibration in OrcaSlicer and see if that could reveal any issues.
I experience the ovals on multiple materials (ABS and PETG) so I’m not sure what this will show - but I’ll report back my findings.
So this may be an odd question, but what does your printer sit on and have you calibrated it on that surface? Could you possibly put the printer on a solid floor, rerun calibration and check to see if you get the same results?
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Great question. The printer is on a very heavy Oak table with 4"x4" solid legs. It sits near the left side legs and it is on large cement paver stone that has rubber feet under it.
All the calibrations have been run in this configuration.
I’m going to be doing the flow ration calibration next from the OrcaSlicer. I did rerun all the vibration calibrations early this morning after cleaning all the rods and bearings and lubricating the system as well as retentioning the belts.
I will test it on the floor next.
The first pics I posted. Where printed at 0.4 layer height. My mistake, Should have printed at 0.2 So you are wrong in saying they look like 0.28
Today I followed what you stated when you printed yours at. 0.20mm Standard” settings on Bambu Studio, 0.4 nozzle, all stock slicer profile settings, no speed changes, no profile changes except for 4 walls instead of 2 and 40% infill. Pic 1A and 1B is the result I got.
So I printed another with the same settings, except I changed the line width to 0.4 as Voron state. Pic 2A and 2B are the result,
As for stating to msteele999 you provided the settings in your previous post, and not been helpful with suppling the 3mf file. One could assume that you have printed the part and the test print. On one of your many Vorons.
My printer is sitting on a five tier shelving unit. I have done a self test and calibrated it on the shelf. Though I have not run the test in Orcaslicer. Printed out a few thing using PLA. One of them was a stand for the build plates Pics below.
The top pic was printed flat. Not like in the pic.
Omph
It is clear to me with all of the oval holes in all of the pics posted that there is a common artifact that coincides with the hole
The layer adhesion or line at approximately the mid point of the hole
With my limited but simple knowledge regarding artifacts this could be caused by a multitude of settings or even a combination that is making these horizontally printed holes suck
I would personally start with flow rate and pressure advance
Next I would make sure my wall generator is set to outer walls first to help with dimensional accuracy
After that it would make sense to slow down the print speed for small perimeters so any excess filament doesn’t get dragged into to layers so long as ypuve got the nozzle temp settings dialed with no oozing
Acceleration and jerk settings would be next (I would decrease accelerations and increase jerk)
And lastly this is a setting that I keep active for 90% of my filament settings is my layer time set to 8 seconds, no fan for 3 layers and my aux fan speed at 100%
I know you all have been doing this for a while but it’s these very simple settings that I would adjust using test models first before hitting the road running
The factory defaults are not terrible but I’ve yet to find any default settings for any of my printers regardless of which slicer I’m using that are anything more than a starting point
I should also add that for my X1C I’m using the Soft Fever/ Orca fork exclusively
I was concerned and tested it myself.
X1C
polyterra
0.20mm Standard@BBL_X1C
The bridge part is sagging a little, but it seems to be OK in general.
@msteele999 did you find anything worth mentioning? Just curious…
Not at the moment. Been doing some work on the car. Have to put Printers on hold for a bit. If I find anything, I will post it on here.
same exact issue here, oval circles every time no matter what i do, hope somebody comes up with an answer, getting ready to sell this one and buy a couple more enders
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Same brand and make of material, same exact settings, printed back to back, is It an illusion or is it the makeup of the color that causes it? I beg you to print the same part in another color just to test, here is my results…
The teal looks more of a circle than the black?
Take a caliper and measure the holes in both directions. Then you know if they are more or less round
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Printed a something with a much bigger hole, ugh, still squished, this is getting ready for sale, nobody has any answers…
So I have turned this subject over in my mind numerous times and realized that there is no magic involved. More specifically, we are talking about something that is quite well defined. Ignoring minor characteristic differences such as plate surfaces, enclosures and whatnot, it comes down to a few critical items: nozzle temperature and nozzle speed. My MK3S+ did an awesome job with PETG out of the box, so to speak. My X1C did not. Why not?
The MK3S+ prints slower than the X1C. Much slower, along the lines of between 15-25% as fast as the X1C prints. Why is that important?
Well, the X1C has to melt material between 4-6x as fast as the MK3S+, so that means a relatively high flow rate is involved. Not every material can deal with high flow rates. Let’s say you’re baking a loaf of bread on a conveyor belt. Can you just dump more heat into the oven, speed up the conveyor and bake the bread faster? No. You’ll end up with a charred shell and cold dough in the middle. So nozzle temperature alone can’t do it. Using the oven analogy, you’ll need to provide a longer oven in which to bake the bread.
The MK3S+ allows between 4-6x more time for layers to bond. Let’s say you’re painting a 1 meter square section of wall. Can you put a second coat on the paint without allowing time for the first coat to dry? No. You’ll end up with a nasty looking finish since the first layer is still far too soft to let the second layer adhere properly. Using the paint analogy, you’ll need to give that first layer time to dry before you hit it with the second coat. Whereas painting a wall is largely a 2-dimensional process, FDM is (of course) a 3-dimensional process. So for this analogy, I’m talking layers within the X-Y plane and not FDM Z-plane layers.
The biggest issue here is that not all materials scale well. Using the limited range of materials with which I have experience, PLA scales well, ABS seems to do alright, PC seems to do alright and PETG does not appear to scale well.
What do I mean when I talk about scaling? Well, it’s not a 1:1 thing. Without going off on a tangent, physical objects don’t always behave as one might expect. For example, a 1/10th scale model of a boat on a lake doesn’t behave like a life-sized boat on an actual lake if you use water for both. At smaller scales, water has much more surface tension and density than at 1:1 scale. Look it up if you’re curious, but it gets pretty deep (no pun intended).
So, with scaling in mind, let’s say that the printer is the engine. The filament composition is the vehicle. If you take a sports car (PLA) and put a much more powerful engine in it, can you drive 4-6x as fast? Probably, assuming things are in good condition. How about a box van (PETG)? Well, it has vastly different characteristics than a sports car does. If you try to drive it 4-6x as fast, you’ll likely run into problems. Air resistance is a big one. Driving a box van at 4-6x its normal maximum speed will likely result in damage from air resistance. The box van’s high center of gravity also means that curves become a huge issue. So it’s probably not a good idea to do that.
What does all this have to do with printing PETG fast? Well, PETG appears to have a pretty tight sweet spot. It doesn’t scale well. Sure, it does scale to an extent, but it’s not PLA. Print it too fast, and you’ll have issues. ABS and PC appear to have a tighter sweet spot than PLA, so some level of accommodation will be required.
Has anyone tried setting their X1C print speed and nozzle temperature for PETG to be just like an MK3S+? I’m guessing it will produce awesome results, just like what you’d get on an MK3S+. Ditto for ABS & PC. It’s not magic; it’s just physical limitations.
Anyway, no attacks please. Just trying to help. It’s entirely possible that I’m dead wrong, but I’d like to solve this mystery.
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I’d love to give a big LOL as well as a “heart” to this post!
You describe things with analogies very well, a rare talent. A very nice addition to this complex thread, thank you! 
And here’s your LOL - 
I was printing yesterday and my vertical holes were not round either. I took pictures with a screw in one of the hole as a reference to detect possible camera perspective distortion. You can see the bottom right and top left of each hole are not right as if the overhang was sloppy.
I had many more to print so I made two changes in the next batch:
- Wall Generator: changed from Arachne to Classic
- Speed / Classic Mode: changed from False to True
And the results are much better.
The only section not looking round is the bridge at the top but that’s to do with layer height resolution. In my next batch, I’ll turn one of these two settings back on to see which one is the culprit.
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Nice! Look forward to the next one, but I’d be pretty happy with the second in any case. 
I tried:
- Wall Generator: Classic
- Speed / Classic Mode: False
And the two droopy corners came back.
And printing with Arachne walls does not allow switching Classic Mode overhang speed to off so the only option for now is Classic walls and Classic Speed overhangs.
Although these corners do not show as overhangs in the slicer, the overhang classic speed setting does have an impact on the quality. So I looked at the speed gradients but all three options I’ve tried so far look the same, I’m puzzled.
I may try to slice with Arachne walls again and play with the Slow Down for Overhangs setting. I remember another thread and some issues with this setting.
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You can try these overhangs speeds and see if they help you out with the filament you are using.
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