I’ve been using the adaptive layer hight function on 99% of my prints
I’ve found that for overhangs and holes printing vertically reducing my layer hight to .08mm (using a standard. 4mm nozzle) from about midway up the hole to the top overhang of the hole prints it clean and round
For top surface holes (horizontal looking from the top down) I use the same reduction in layer hight for about 4 or 5 layers at the bottom and at the top
Going from a .2mm layer hight to a .08mm layer hight will highlight the jump in layerhights visually unless you slide the curser up while holding the left mouse button and drag up while adjusting so the layer hight shift is more gradual
On the very bottom layer or if the hole starts at the base of the print I won’t shift the layer hight until the first 2 bottom layers are finished at the full target layer hight
This method isn’t perfect but if found for fitting parts together it makes the 2 parts fit nicely together and looks better than any other adjustment I’ve tried
I guess it’s sort of a workaround but it comes at a cost of time
I would suggest a simple file with holes both on the sides and the top
Lots of times I’ll just scale a simple model wayyyyy down and bang out quick test prints before starting a full size one with similar challenges
An XYZ cube, Benchy, or any of the caliberation test prints only gets me some of the adjustments dialed
Size, speed, color and layer hight are all factors depending on if they’re geometric shapes or organic shapes
Round holes in a round object are far different settings for me than flat surfaces with holes, 2 completely different challenges and settings regarding the minimum layer hight and speed in particular
Remember, variable layer hight is your friend but if you do it wrong it can be your worst enemy
Thank god its easily adjusted, reset and very finite in it’s adjustments
Hey Jrock another great reminder for us to use with holes and I do the same thing test out some small parts before the big part or cut the model up to test a areas that might be a problem and find out what works the best takes time but cheap insurance.
Had a similar issue when printing 2.4 parts in KVP ABS.
What solved my issue was adjusting the Jerk settings and cleaning the carbon rods every .5 kg of abs.
I’ve been forgetting to use it! Thanks for the reminder. I just Bookmarked this, it’s a great take on dialing in the hole / ovals and a bunch of other issues.
Like some other tools as well. A hammer isn’t always the right tool.
Dynamite however …
Yeah, this. I love they just added " Support sinking and only slice model part above hot bed" to Studio 1.6. Going to DL it today and take it for a spin.
I have a case open with Bambu on this that is about a month old now, but they are working on it. If you are experiencing ovals when printing horizontal holes in vertical surfaces, I urge you to put in a support case. You can cross reference to my case if you like (it is currently escalated to the Engineering team) - my case number is US230409716001.
I have tried all of the recommendations in this thread and others. I have tried several different materials, print speeds, wall types - I even disabled z-hop thinking that perhaps it the nozzle was coming down a little too far after the hop.
I have submitted pictures to Bambu showing caliper measurements that depict the hole about 10% wider than tall - but the overall print is accurate. I have high hopes they can figure out what is causing it since it is only happening to a small minority of owners.
No I have not resolved it as yet. Was working on my car. Then went back to the voron 2.4 Just to let you know. I have been printing with PLA. With no problems. But I only printing things that do not require, horizontal holes. Like you say. The printer is printing fine. The layers and dimensions seem to be ok. Will look into getting a support ticket. Just a bit busy at the moment. With work.
Just my quick two cents on this topic… I noticed that OP is using black filament. In my experience very dark filaments do not work well with flow calibration, resulting in rounded corners. These rounded corners may be the cause of the oval holes. When I want to print with dark filaments, I first do a small print of a test block in a white or light filament and flow calibration on. Then I switch to the dark filament and skip the flow calibration. The X1 then uses the flow calibration of the light filament with the dark filament, giving me way better results.
I’m having the same exact problem of oval holes in my prints. Large holes, small holes, horizontal, vertical, it doesn’t matter. I’ve tried different filaments and settings to no avail. Eagerly awaiting to see if they get it fixed with you @msteele999.
I highly recommend opening a case with Bambu and referencing my support case and this Forum thread: Support case #: US230409716001
We are getting more and more reports of this behavior so the more examples we can provide Bambu, the higher the likelihood of them being able to resolve it.
I have a long standing support case open and a support engineer that sincerely wants to get this resolved. He is asking if I can get the case numbers and / or serial numbers of printers that are experiencing this problem so they can check them against their records to see if there is some correlation.
If you have this issue, please open a support case and then please provide me with your printer serial number and your case number if you have it. Even if you don’t open a case, please send me your printer serial number and I will add it to the list.
