I got my new A1 setup. Did a small test print only about 2 inches long using Bambu Lab PLA Basic and IT WARPED. This surprised me.
I went to the filament settings and the default bed temperature settings for BL PLA basic were 65 deg C for first and all other layers. I though TWH? This is way too high for their PLA.
I checked the BL basic settings in a project on my P1S and the settings FOR THE EXACT SAME FILAMENT are at 55. Who’s brilliant (NOT) idea to set the A1 at 65 was this.?
I set the temperatures for the A1 to 55 and got a little stringing on the first level but NO warping. Running a new print with 57 for the first layer and 55 for the rest.
It’s funny that they tell you to open or remove the top glass on the P1S and X1 when doing PLA as it can get too warm in the enclosure and cause warping, and then someone has the bright idea to kick the default values on the A1 to 65, which is WAY hotter than the bed should be. What? Are they expecting people to keep their room temperatures at 55F / 13C, so they need a warmer bed?
This also explains why you can’t transfer custom filament settings from the P/X series to the A series.
Interesting I have only had warping on my A1 when it was a very large print most of my smaller things have not printed yet. I wonder if it has to do with the open air and they wanted to give it more. I dont know but so far minus the 1 very large print it has been flawless.
I’d printed the build plate protector with no problem. The PTFE tube removal tool for the filament feed at the top of the extruder is thicker and more solid, so retains more heat.
And room temperature was 71F.
I’m assuming that you mean that part of the print lifted off of the print bed when you say that it “warped”.
This phenomenon is actually not caused by a high bed temperature, but rather by insufficient adhesion to the bed, which can be caused by a multitude of things, but the main ones (as far as I’m aware) are:
- Grease/Oils/other impurities on the bed.
- Draughts of cold air in the room, leading to uneven cooling on the part (this only really applies to printers without an enclosure, i.e. A1,P1P)
The first can usually be taken care of by carefully cleaning the bed, while the second one can actually be reduced by increasing the bed temperature, or making sure that there are no draughts in the room (e.g. closing windows/doors).
The “warping” that can be reduced by removing the top glass on the P1S/X1 is of a different type: PLA gets soft when ambient temperatures reach 60°C, so movement of the printhead can distort the already printed material into an unwanted shape, and brides or overhangs can droop excessively. This is why they may suggest things like leaving the door open on the P1S/X1, though I have never had to do that for PLA on my X1C.
Therefore, due to the way they are set up, bed-slingers like the A1 will always need a higher bed temperature than an enclosed printer like the P1S/X1. 65°C is a completely reasonable temperature for the bed to be when printing PLA on an open printer. The standard on my Ender 3 Pro has always been 60°C, never lower than that.
Not always. And in this case, it WAS caused by the bed temperature, as when I dropped it to 57C- THE PROBLEM WENT AWAY.
And yes, too high of a temperature is a known cause for those of us that have been doing this for a while. I started printing when you had to dial in EVERY parameter for your particular printer. I had adhesion problems and warping problems that would be fixed by dialing in the bed temperature. As for my Anycubic bed slinger, I never went over 55 with PLA. Just because the Ender 3 used 60 doesn’t mean all printers use that. The type of surface has as much to do with proper bed temperatures as the type of printer.
Your reply also ignores the fact that cooling fan settings are ALSO a fix for warped parts. Especially when you get into things like ABS, ASA, and nylon.
So in reality, there are more factors to bed adhesion than what you’ve stated.
2 Likes