I have more than one x1c at work and none really prints true to size
I have been trying to print a case for a Raspberry Pi display.
This case is designed so that the display really fits inside and is flush with the front.
We have also had this case printed several times by a service provider - here the display fits into every case
I tried it on each of my x1c but it is missing on the y axis good 1mm
Even if I print the cube with hole from the 3d print community forum which is 20x20x10 I can never get this cube dimensionally correct.
With my Anet am8 I would know how to help myself and check which components are not running correctly or are set wrong.
But now Iām wondering what I do on the x1c when it fails to print a cube true to size?
The wall should then be 0.8 mm thick. If it is not, you will need to adjust the flow ratio by measuring the thickness of each wall, for example: wall1= 0.78 mm wall2= 0.77 mm wall3= 0.78 mm wall4= 0.76 mm.
Then add all four walls together: 0.78 + 0.77 + 0.78 + 0.76= 3.09 3.09 divided by the four walls 3.09/4= 0.7725
0.7725 is your ACTUAL wall thickness
Now divide the TARGET wall thickness by the ACTUAL wall thickness 0.8 / 0.7725= 1.03559871 rounded to 1.04 In this case, the flow ratio for the filament used is 1.04
The flow ratio is entered in the filament setting:
As Christian_W wrote, if you set the Line width to 0.4 a double wall is actually not exactly 0.8. In Prusa Slicer if you set all the line width to the same it shows you the exact value of for example 2 other perimeter lines (this info is not shown in BS as far as I know).
Regarding Lidar: The problem is that if it āfailsā the scanning, it does so silently and refers back to default values. As there is no message, I donāt trust it But you can identify to an certain degree already if you are overextruding or under-extruding when inspecting the first layer.
If you say that you are 1mm of from a 20mm cube - this is 5% which is not uncommon if the flow rate is not calibrated properly.
Also having issues with parts not being the proper size. Same part printed with my Creator Pro 2 is perfect to size, Bambu X1C prints everything slightly smaller. Especially noticeable if Iām printing something with text on it. It looks like someone unticked bold font when it comes out the X1C
I just saw someone mention the flow-rate test, I will give that a go but crazy you still have to do stuff like this on a printer with so much tech in. My CP2 cost a 3rd of the price and most stuff just prints with standard settings, and I use FlashPrint which everyone turns their nose up at. It gets the job done and has handled every random part Iāve thrown at it in the last 2 years.
I guess Bambu Labs are still playing catchup, but itās slightly disappointing with the money I spent. Iām having bad issues with circles having a notch taken out of them at the join point, and squares have one corner missing.
Iām not sure whatās going on because sometimes it does this and sometimes it doesnāt. Same filament, same variables. Very inconsistent experience with this printer so far. Maybe Iāve got used to just turning my CP2 on, browsing SD, hitting print, and not worrying about anything.
Have you checked the tramming of your print bed? I had an issues where designed holes of say 6mm coming out at 5.7mm until I decided to check the tramming and found the bed was 2-7mm out of level between the three points. Once I did that its been within .15mm of accuracy on everything.
Well ABL is really good at compensating for it. Thatās why you can have a bed that is completely mechanically unleveled and still be able to produce a part in my case within .3mm of its original design.
Thatās impressive, leveling the bed through the tramming process allows the printer to be more accurate and have less compensation to account for. Itās an extremely simple process and I suggest you at least try it and see how far out your bed is.
Trying to print with several mm of variation in bed height on any other printer of the past would be laughable by any account.
Edit: when I mentioned designed holes Iām referring to something I made in CAD for example and I want a bolt hole to be 6mm. It would come out to be 5.7mm after printing. Which is .3mm smaller than I designed it to be. Thatās an issue if you have to apply a .3mm correction to every single aspect of a design. Thatās why after tramming (leveling with the BL wiki post steps) the printer is now able to print a 6mm bolt hole within .15mm or less of accuracy as in a 6mm hole comes off the print bed at 5.85-6mm. Much better than before.
@wizardbynight - Please donāt think any of us are trying to put you off or talk down to you. Weāre attempting to help. None of us know your level of 3D printing skill or natural mechanical aptitude.
I personally hate when I see someone who is totally puzzled by something and the āold timersā are dismissive to them or answer in a complex way that assumes the basic knowledge needed. This stuff gets complex at times.
Keep in mind weāre trying to lay down varying types and brands of plastics and be accurate to hundreds of a mm. Thatās not easy, and automatic systems like ABL are tools, not āfix allāsā . Thatās whatās being said here. Bed tramming comes first, then ABL.
Hey, I appreciate it, but Iām not a 3D printer newbie, Iāve been using a variety of them for about 3 years now. My old faithful is the Flashforge Creator Pro 2, and no word of a lie I have over 1000 hours print time on it and neither extruder has ever clogged. Itās a total workhorse and Flashprint software is simple yet powerful and has always produced great results for me.
I got this X1C looking to take part quality to the next level and also reduce print time drastically (CP2 is slooow) but so far I have not been impressed by the output of the machine. I donāt know if I have a fault in mine somewhere, or if Iām just missing something, but it hasnāt produced good prints since day one. Last night I spent hours playing with flow rates and parts are still getting printed with holes in them no matter what settings I use. I even opened the orange filament that came with the printer to remove another possible variable and still the same issue.
Iām used to manually adjusting the bed with my CP2, but even when itās off slightly the worst that happens is maybe some poor layer adhesion. Iām struggling to see how it would cause parts to be smaller than measurements and/or have holes in them.
Sounds like you have a borked unit. I donāt know what the issue could be at this time, but it sounds like a call to support is in order.
Got my own X1C and it has been near perfect from day 1. Any issue, except one, I had was solved by not skipping the bed-levelling or extruder calibration. The one issue was a vibrating controller-board fan which was solved by poking at the spinner with a screwdriver (and will be solved with a Noctua upgrade when I get around to it.
Yeah Iām going to put a support ticket in I think. I just inspected the nozzle thinking maybe itās damaged, but it looks good. The only thing I noticed was the rubber jacket around it seems have a split in it? Would be causing any issues? Or are they meant to have a split in to remove them? I noticed it comes with a spare hotend in the box, but no spare rubber jacket so I canāt compare.
Yeah, that would definitely take you out of the n00b range, LOL!
Well now we have more data on your problem, but Iām with the others, sounds like you need to open a support ticket.
Mine has run pretty much perfectly despite it having a .93mm dip in the bed @ center! Iāve temp fixed that with alum tape, but Iāve only had one failure and it was my fault not having a brim on a tiny part.
The support people are a little slow, theyāre still ramping up their support since the massive growth, but they do seem to handle things well.
Most of my teething problems I think have been attributed to settings! The fact the built-in designs print perfectly told me that and gave me the will to live when I was getting overwhelmed with bad prints and all the options in Bambu Studio. Iām not very good at change so I always assume the worst when things donāt work how I expect, thatās why I sometimes post negative takes when usually thereās always a solution to the problem - I just hadnāt found it yet! Things are improving with each day of exploration, the only real concern I have is my rubber nozzle sock (that sounds wrong) has a split in it from factory so I might open a ticket to see if I can get a replacement. The issue causing my size indifference was down to one part trying to print into another, again a settings issue! Hopefully I have solved this now.
Iām also pleased to say my print bed is perfect so thatās always a positive
But you can identify to an certain degree already if you are overextruding or under-extruding when inspecting the first layer.
